Having difficulty identifying engine specifically distributor in a 1972 Clark C500 HY 55.I ordered ignition tuneup parts from a Clark dealer who ordered parts based on the data tag of the machine.There was some difficulty for them to come up with the engine from the serial number.The parts that were ordered don’t fit.I was told either the motor has been changed or the distributor has been changed.Based on these numbers I found on the block can anyone identify this engine and what distributor fits it
Some pictures of the engine would help. Someone here likely knows what the engine is by pictures of it.
I am thinking if I can get motor ID I might get the right electronic distributor to fit?
Engine is a Waukesha D-155G. Distributor was Clark #1636495. Should cross to Delco III2685 or Prestolite: IBT4105 / IBT 4105A Any NAPA store should have the parts on the shelf, fairly common.
Thanks any thoughts about going with an electronic ignition?Which brand
Did not find the Per Lux /Igniter kit, but here is the whole distributor. It's cost will buy a lot of points sets.. If you will KILL the engine with the ignition switch, then remove the key, leaving it OFF, your points will last a very long time. It is sitting with the key switch ON, not running that causes most arc damage. Proper gap, clean dry tip faces, and key off and out. Keep your money...Can't explain, but 15 yrs exper. D41-01A PerTronix Distributor Waukesha 4 Cylinder OMB Warehouse - Go Kart Parts and Mini Bike Parts. OEM and Aftermarket supplier of Outdoor Power Equipment Parts, Arborist and Landscape Supplies. www.ombwarehouse.com
TD 24 is the right advice. If it was mine, I would just fix what you have- I wouldn't switch to electronic ignition. Look how long the old system has worked
I agree if the cap,rotor,points and condenser which I ordered from the dealer fit I would be installing them end of movie but they don’t.I can’t find any kind of tag on the distributor to order the right parts.The complete distributor is a worst case scenario because the lift has been down for over 2 months now and I need it.Thanks for the help all appreciate it
Is there not parts house where you can physically go and compare, Most likely they would have the cap and points on hand. They are quite common. Still trying. Get with the Clark dealer you got the wrong stuff from. Give him the Clark # 1636495 for the distributor and ask if the parts for it are different from what he sent you. Then go with those....As an aside, get the proper serial number off the right hand side of the frame. It is there in 3/4 inch cut in numbers. Scrape/sand/buff to clean metal and read. There is many an error tween data plates and steel # cut in frame. Added: That engine or one identical is what came in that truck. It is a Waukesha D-155G, made for Clark. You can swap gas components off, adds some other stuff and put injectors in and it is a D-155.
Hey TD24 you are a walking manual thanks for the input.Since my last post I yanked the distributor and found Delco part number.I am waiting for a call back from my local auto parts store about availability of the right parts.
If it is just the points and they still mechanically function, get piece of very fine emery paper/cloth., with them in place.. insert a folded piece in between and gently and steadily polish/grind/file the contact tips fresh. WIPE THEM CLEAN WITH A DRY RAG WHEN DONE. I have done that on a service call to get one going, and when returned with the parts, owner said, Leave it, it's running OK. He paid for services and part, I suppose it it still ruining. (Was in 1993 before I sold my shop.) If there is such a thing still up in your area, as a "penny box of matches," with the abrasive striking strip on the side.... I have torn that off, folded in half and performed the above described satisfactorily.
When I looked at why it would not start I found 1 spark plug with half the porcelain broken off 1 spark plug wire boot missing cap had a quarter sized piece missing out of it and nothing from the coil.Its a 1972 and these parts may well have been in there since about that time.She deserves the full meal deal of replaceable parts.That damn machine will still be running after I am long gone lol
Great find and hope progress continues. Those engines ruin cold. Do not be surprised to see some milky scum on dipstick. If lots, drain oil, put in 3 qts of kerosene/diesel, crank and let run at low speed for say 10/115 minutes, Drain it,, add straight 30 wgt oil, change filter. THEN, every time you use it, use or just let sit and idle until temp up to operating. Will eliminate. It is condensation from not getting temp up...(It prolly has the thermostat it left the factory with ).
Do I understand you correctly to drain the oil completely then add 3 quarts of diesel and run the machine with only diesel in the oil system? I am pretty leary about doing that.Had your info not been as spot on as it is I would never consider doing that.What are the fire potentials and does it make a difference that it is propane fueled?
The don't do it. The 10 /15 min at idle gives it a good washing machine effect to rinse out the sludge. Glad we got this far on you solving your problem.
Got the right distributor parts yesterday and was pretty happy when it fired right up.Pulled the oil drain plug and the white sludge was heavy.I refilled it with thinner oil and let it run for an hour.Pulled the plug again replaced the filter and refilled the oil.Seems to have got rid of most of the sludge.When I get some spare time I will look into the air brakes.Step on the pedal there is nothing but air
Do you know where I could download a repair manual
Yes. Your Clark dealer. Be some cost, BUT. It will cover that machine and any attachment etc. that was on it when it left the factory. Down loads off the net cover which ever one they copied off. Also, ask the dealer for a "Line Card of the Machine Production card, lists major components and part numbers, date mfg, shipped and to whom. He will have one in his file prolly, and could just copy it front and back for you.