Hi all. I have had several times problems with the ring gear that connects the engine with the torque converter ... this machine is equipped with a transmission clark hr28000. It has been broken three times around ten years. this ring gear is a phenolic fiber. (Bakelite) .. I suspect the manufacturer design the ring gear in that material with the order to act as a mechanical fuse .. or am I wrong ??? Now, what happens if I do not place a phenolic fiber, and placed a steel ??? ' I've got a ring gear iron sixteen holes that fits perfectly in the engine flywheel. just the design or pass the gear is not equal to the converter design. would have to change gear and torque converter or lathe machining, adapt a crown wheel of a caterpillar 950 81j that if fits into the ring gear iron. I'll add some images of the ring gear. I apologize for my language because it is not the English. I set to work google translator. I forgot. the engine is a perkins 6-354 converter believe is a c-270
No problem with the English, Google is not too bad. I have more problems talking to some people with English as first language some days! I have not had experience with this company but might be worth checking with them: http://www.bdmfg.com/products_services/construction/ringgear.html I can not say if there would be any problems going to steel, Cat uses steel on all the loaders I have worked on and I see no problems. The only problem I can see is the amount of machine work needed to convert to the Cat style coupling. If off too much you could be having worse problems. Hope Google does a good job on this message at your end, I should have studied better in Spanish class back in 1967! Buena Suerte
Most of these fiber gears are replaced with nylon ones and they are much better. I would try to find a Clark dealer who has one.
Clark skidders had an update to a 32 bolt fiber gear with a steel backer ring. Gear P/N 236936, backing ring P/N 236937, self locking screws P/N 243970. Also requires a 32 bolt flywheel, I only have P/N for Detroit and Cummins , not Perkins. May have to have the Perkins flywheel drilled and tapped to 32 holes. Check the runout from the flywheel to the flywheel housing, max runout .005", check flywheel face runout max .007", Check flywheel bore against the center bushing on the converter, can be same size to -.005".
I did notice in the information in the link to the gears that I posted that some of the gears do mention 16 bolts and others 32 bolts. I can see where doubling the number of bolts would add much to the strength of the assembly whether it was a fiber or nylon or what ever material. As the original poster had mentioned doing some major machine work to try to adapt to a steel ring I would think laying out and drilling and taping 16 holes would be possible. One could even use the backer plate to position those extra holes.
Hi guys. thank you all for your advice. It is gratifying to know that there is an iron ring gear. That is very important because that's what I want to do. I'll add other photos for you THINK whether it is right or not what I want to do.
This is the flywheel of the engine perkins 6-354. this is its original engine.
This is the iron ring gear want to adapt. this ring gear is not that machine belongs. my father had kept on his farm, I found it and saw that it fits perfectly into the flywheel. both the ring gear and the flywheel has 16 screw and fit all.
this is the impeller cover torque converter .. .. but there is a problem. threads or teeth passes do not correspond to the ring gear. ring gear teeth are thicker.
Here it is where things get difficult. which is why we want to adapt a cover of a payloader 950 cat. I make a cut in impeller cover clark .... and I remove teeth that pass. then break loose the caterpillar drive the ring gear. and then adapt the impeller cover clark. this is the caterpillar cover
thanks oldseabee. I understand what he says about seeking the center of both parties and tolerance of 005 "I'll take into account ... Now, that's what I really worry about this. clark equipment or dana spicer anyone who has designed this transmission, the ring gear made fiber for some reason ... 1 noise? 2 Insulating heat? 3 functions as a mechanical fuse? etc also take into account that this torque converter fits the part where the engine is dry. It is not like the caterpillar working wet by splashing the transmission. So, what I worry that after doing the work .... stay loud or just melts. although I do not think it melts the two pieces fit perfectly ... oldseabee a question for you. when you saw these transmissions with those engines (Cummins and Detroit) ring gear worked to dry or wet ???? any opinion is very important. fiber ring gear is really a nightmare. I do not want to buy it for the fourth time and last few years ...
The skidders have a dry sump. Very early Clarks had a steel gear, after they got a little bit of wear they got noisy so that's why they changed to fiber gear, original had 8 bolts. The other thing to check is crankshaft end play before and after installation, if the crankshaft is in a little bit of a bind, next problem will be thrust bearings among other costly items. The steel backup ring holds a lot better then the bellow washers, but the lock bolts have to be torqued quickly and machine not run for 12 hours to allow the epoxy to cure completley.
seabee old then you think? if it works with the ring gear iron? would wear the long term? what if I put a vent in the motor housing, and pour 3 or 4 liters of oil in order splattering ring gear? Making sure it is not leaking?
You may have several problems, first you would have to get a oil sealed starter and gasket, next the rear main crankshaft seal is only a one way seal made to hold oil in the engine, you would have to find a two way seal to hold the oil in the engine and keep the flywheel oil out of the engine, not sure if the flywheel housing is made to be sealed, if dust can get in and mix with the oil that would be like a grinding compound that could wear the teeth on the gear. The 32 bolt wheel has given good life in the skidders and they work the converter a lot harder then a wheel loader.
My Ranger 666D has 6200 hours since I changed the gear last time. Its still quite and I've had no issues.( knock on wood) The only reason I changed the original was I had the engine out after the 4-53 dropped a sleeve skirt and needed an rebuild. The original gear looked good at 5390 hours.
I would lean in the direction of the 32 bolt nylon ring gear if it was for myself. Seems it would be less work than adapting the steel gear parts from the Cat. If you do go to the nylon gear I would ask whoever you get it from the proper torque and what type of hardware, "bolts, studs, nuts and washers " you should use.I know the fiber gears I have installed had studs with lock nuts and used, I believe, three Belleville washers on each stud. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belleville_washer In the link above look at the section titled "Stacking" the ones I installed had the washers all facing the same way to increase pressure on the backing ring.
ready! Hello friends. and they gave me the piece were machined. also it was balanced. I mounted the engine and start. Thats very good. no vibration. no noise. change the basis of the transmission as well. the engine is aligned. before he vibrated too. between the engine and transmission I have placed a gasket. and the motor housing a vent. I have sealed the housing. place grease between the gears. It does not sound so far. I wanted to put oil there but as said oldseabee what stops me is the engine starter dirty oil. if over time it becomes noisy place maybe one or two liters of oil. they believe? thank you for your help.