Hello, the company I work for just bought a Climax BB 5000 for me to operate. Starting to operate this machine using carbide inserts from Mitsubishi called MP3025 (TCMT130304) isn't working that well, I get really rough finish and the insert break when I cut more than 1.5mm on the radius. Can anyone give me a tip of which insert to use?
We used a variety of Sandvik Coromant inserts on our B5500. I can probably dig up details but can't remember what they were off-hand. Maybe call the Sandvik representative in your area and ask for a visit.?
Okey, look into it if you can and as will I. Thanks in advance
Ok, first up. We were using solid High-Speed steel tools (1/2" x 4 and 1/2" x 2.5) for finishing. Our boring bars were 2-1/4" (57mm) diameter. All I can find regarding the inserts is "INSERT 80 DEG DIAMOND 3/8 IC .015R". It does not give a manufacturer reference.
3/8 IC is Inscribed circle .015 r is the nose radius. There should be a designation of positive or negative rake. HSS is good, especially for rough welds.
I think I'd want a bit larger radius on the insert for line boring steel parts. Also it looks like that is a ceramic insert, I'd go for carbide. What surface speed do you run? Mitsubishi Materials Web Catalogue | Products Information | Turning Inserts | TCMT130304 Turning Inserts|TCMT130304|Search from Order Number, Type of Machining, Work Material, and Cutting condition and Use Selected Tooling Sheet www.mitsubishicarbide.net
That is not a ceramic cutter, it’s a carbide with a Nikole titanium finish. It’s the same ones I use on my lathe and flycutter. 3 indexing points. You shouldn’t be breaking them unless something is not set up right.
A triangle with a 1/64 nose radius is a pretty weak insert. They keep the nose radius small to reduce chatter, at the expense of strength. Line boring is usually a slow speed task, high speed steel is often a better choice. HSS is much tougher to cut weld build up, and can be sharpened to a keener edge to reduce cutting forces. But speeds are limited, maybe as slow as 30 surface feet per minute (sfm) for high strength steels or welds to 80 sfm for mild steel. There are important training points you have not received. If this tool was purchased new you really need to get a company demonstrator in there to help you get started and give you tips.
IIRC Climax also have a video showing how to set up and determine basics such as speed and cut depth. Have a look for it on their web site.
Just from using a drill press to line bore the swing post on my hoe, the brazed carbide boring bars were next to useless because they chipped way too easily even with very light cuts. A friend gave me a high speed steel bit and I ground it to work in the small boring head. Night and day difference cutting the 7018 build up and only had to give a light touch up (sharpening) after a couple passes. High speed steel is supposed to be much more tolerant of imperfections and rougher uneven services.
The larger the nose radius the more cutting forces trying to bend the bar leading to more chatter. Start with HSS sharpened to a small nose radius to cut the weld to an even clean up. Yes it will not look pretty, but it will be more accurate. Then, with a cleaned up bore, you could switch to carbide and with a larger nose radius.
That is why I posted the link so you could see that YES IT IS A CERAMIC. Just look at the numbers. Definition of....... A cermet is a composite material composed of cer amic and met al materials. Per original poster above. Mitsubishi called MP3025 (TCMT130304) . MP3025 is coated cermet.. See the link !!!!!
Those big names confuse me, when i order from vendor we call it a TIN coated carbide cutter. Pretty sure it’s Tungsten Nitride coated. Either way, it’s great for mills and lathes but hates any type of chatter. Seen it used in a line borer for finish passes only. Not even sure what Cemert is.