The cutout on the gear shifter does not work (not much electrical does), so I have to shift to neutral with the forward/reverse shuttle lever on the steering column in order to change gears. I think I understand from the wiring diagram that there should be 12V power that goes to the button on the shifting handle, when then goes thru a fuse in the box, then on to the solenoid on the top of the power shuttle on the transaxle, then on to ground. Did I get that right? If so, then can I test the solenoid (only) by bypassing the harness, and run a 12V power line, through a switch, thru a fuse, directly to the solenoid to see if I can get it to engage? Thanks,
Ptf
Don't you also have one on the loader control? Your description sounds right to me. It is a normally open switch which close when you press it and sends voltage to the solenoid. Mine both work on my K. How sloppy is your shifter? I had to do some hand filing to get mine tightened up to be able to get all 4 gears. Shifts smooth now.
Bill, good question. I don't recall one on the loader control, but the diagrams surely indicate there's one. I'll have to check more closely when there next. It's certainly possible that it was taken off/out completely as with much of the other things that don't work. Shifter seems to work fine, at least it works. thx for the reply.
The one on the shifter is handy, especially when roading the machine. The one on the loader is nice when loading trucks.
Did you get your problem fixed? I am have the same thing happen. Also, when I am going forward the it will cutout. Not all the time. But sometimes.
No, not yet fixed. But, I did discover that the button, if there was any, on the loader is no longer there. And discovered that the button on the shifter does work. I found the disconnected plug for the cutout just above the shuttle - on top of the transaxle, and under the floor plate. I verified that it does have 12V current when the cutout button is pushed. However, there's no wires coming from the solenoid. So, when I next get to work on the hoe, I'm going to remove the solenoid and see whether I can 'fix', or have to replace. If however, you cutout when moving forward either you could have a short in the wires, or alternatively, your forward/reverse linkage could be out of whack and moving could cause it to shift into neutral. Mine was wired together, and there's a lot of slack where the linkage connects to the shuttle. I've now gotten the parts to get that in better shape. You may want to check that linkage from where it connects forward of the firewall back to where it connects to the shuttle.
Hey Johnhrich- did you ever get this fixed? The buttons (loader handle and shifter handle) on my 580K are both broken, and I just ordered new handles (include buttons) and the boots that cover the button. I was wondering if there's any trick to removing the handles/switches before I take this on... Looking forward to having trans disconnect working
Dualsport. I did get fixed what I wanted to. I replaced the solenoid in the shifter housing top of the transaxle. I also had to trace the wire back to the shifter handle through the fuse box (and rewire that). There was a switch (without boot) on the shifter handle which already worked. And I wasn't interested in getting the one on the loader handle working so never pursued that. As far as I can tell, there's 3 places that the disconnect can fail to work 1) at the buttons and wiring back to the fuse box, 2) fuse box and wiring back to the solenoid, and 3) the solenoid itself. Hope that helps some. You might look at/print out the electrical diagrams for the wiring.
Thanks Johnrich- it helps to hear your experiences. I'll start at the broken buttons and work my way back once I get the parts.