Getting ready to start cleaning up the wiring, and need help from some of the better educated about how some of this works. Most of the wiring has been butchered, so am almost starting over. The clutch cut out system has a dash switch, a brake switch and a foot switch connected to the solenoid. In the dash switch neutral position, is the solenoid energized or relaxed? Is this a series ckt with all 3 switches in the n/c position so that moving any one of the to n/o denergizes the solenoid? (micro switches are both destroyed, so can't tell how they are supposed to work) The wiring diagram shows several diodes, but doesn't indicate polarity - how do I tell? Can't find the diode physical placement - anybody know where they're at?
Is this what yours looks like? Mine is a 580SE and different, but I am trying to sort out my wiring also. The wiring diagram from Case is not easy to read; at least the one I have.
Yeah, it's pretty close. Case wants $26.40 for the micro switches, I found them on ebay a lot cheaper. Most of the larger switches of this type are single pole double throw, but i don't know what the originals are. All 3, RTD, Floor & brake cross to the same number @ Case, D134622. I wish someone had a schematic representation of the wiring, it would make it a whole lot easier.
It's a series circuit with each switch putting a ground on the solenoid. The covered end of the diode is the positive. It keeps any voltage spikes from causing the coil to chatter. I am replacing all of the wiring on my 580c and eliminating the case cable plugs and the socket style plug on the dash with terminal blocks. I can send you the circuit schematic if you need one.
The circuit isn't exactly a series circuit. The switch on the floor stays operational no matter which position the dash switch is in. the dash switch only affects the switch on the brake pedal.
So from what I'm reading in these last two posts, it appears to me that the solenoid is de-energized when power is being put to the wheels, and the brake switch, if the dash switch is in the neutral position, will put a ground on the solenoid, causing it to energize, whereas the floor switch will always ground the solenoid and energize it. - Is this correct? GWS, I PM'd you about the schematic. Thanks
Theoldman, I need to look at the circuit again, I know that none of my switches worked when i got my 580C. It seemed to me the switches supplied power to the shuttle solenoid which is opposite of what GWS says in his post and I may be wrong. I dont have access to my wiring diag right now but I will look into it when I can get to my wiring diagram.
OK my last thread was all wrong. 12v comes off of cb BB to dash cutout to brake switch. Other end of brake sw goes to solenoid, and to one end of the floor switch which goes to 12v. Ckt is completed thru solenoid coil to grd. Dash c/o is spst, when in closed position, curent passes to brake switch when closed feeds one end of floor switch and picks solenoid. 12v also fed to opp end of gloor switch, when closed will pick solenoid. Question is - is the solenoid energized and drops out with brake switch or floor switch or vice versa?
The solonoid has to be energized to neutralize drive.
You are correct. I was looking at the plug connector wrong in the schematic which is good since it did not make any sense. As I understand it now, the floor switch is a separate circuit that should work regardless of the dash switch position. That would make it a parallel circuit.
The way they draw the plugs is completely confusing, at least to me, but I'm learning. I do appreciate all the help.
View attachment 300dpi Solenoid.pdf See PDF Sketch... Maybe I should not even offer this because its NOT a 580C, but rather a 580 Super E. I have been looking at the drawings and this is how I perceive my clutch circuit to work. Maybe something here will help you sort out yours. I have no switch in the dash. My floor button is missing and I am thinking about installing a 20MM pushbutton down there in the 13/16" hole. Looks like I would need to buy a bracket deal that costs $130 to fix mine woth Case parts. On mine, the floor limit and the thumb pushbutton are both Single Pole N/O circuits wired in parallel. Either one can put the thing in neutral no matter what the other is doing. I should be able to read 12V on the wires with respect to frame ground. It's possible that I do not understand this correctly, but it's the way I read my crappy Case drawing.
I think I have this figured out clutch cutout ckt on the C. 12v comes from solenoid thru 10amp ckt breaker to clutch cutout switch in dash to n/o contacts of Brake switch to c/o solenoid. Ckt ground is thru solenoid. n/o contacts of floor c/o switch also ties to 12v @ ckt brkr, then to solenoid along with brake switch. When the dash switch is in the drive position, energizing the brake switch or the floor switch will energize the solenoid. In the neutral postion, only the floor switch will energize it. All the micro switches on my tractor are shot, and Case wants $27+ for them. I found replacements @ electronics surplus.com for $5.86 + shipping.
When the dash switch is in "drive" the brake switch will not energize the solenoid. Neutral position will energize it. Another note I came across says that if you are in 1st or 2nd gear with the engine revved up by the hand throttle, the brakes may not be able to stop the tractor if the dash switch is in "drive". Handy little thing to be aware of.
I guess what I'm missing here, is drive vs. neutral position. Waht I'm calling drive in my last post is with the dash switch closed. I have no markings left on dash, I'm assuming drive is "up" & closed. Is that correct?
I wish you would advise the part number you found. I suspect these are Honeywell or Microswitch brand. I am gonna have to fabricate a bracket for my floor switch. I only have a 13/16" hole in the floor plate.
On mine, the "drive" position is up on the toggle switch. The "drive" position is the N/O position on the switch which breaks the 12V to the brake switch and prevents the brake switch from applying the 12V to the solenoid. Neutral passes the 12V to the switch so it will activate the cutout function when either of the two right brake pedals are applied. Doesn't really matter I guess which is up or down on the switch as long as you know which way it works.
That's what I need to know - how to label the switch. bowen the switches on electronics surplus are Omron Z-15GW2
got the ball, detent and spring installed on theshuttle today, and whatta you know - it stays in gear. Drained the oil in the shuttle, cleaned the screen (it was probably 80% blocked), forgot all about draining the torque converter, but the oil in the shuttle was pretty clean, so think everything will be ok.
I think that number needs a "B" at the end for screw connections. Without the "B" it's a soldier type. I think the Case switch was made by Microswitch, now Honeywell. It a short hinge roller lever. SPDT http://www.ebay.com/itm/180543237614?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
I got the switches in yesterday, and they are certainly long hinge rollers, but they do have screw connections, with solder ons supplied in pace. I may have to revamp mounts, but for the difference in price, I can play with them, and they are rated 15 amp, so should be ample in capacity.
I'm going through the same thing on a 580c I just picked up. This is the very information I was after! From what I understand, it can be driven without any of this, but I'd have to shift the power shuttle into neutral manually with the lever on the left of the steering column?
You can shift to forward or reverse with the column mounted selector, but you would have to have the 4 speed gearbox preselected. I don't know what the long term result would be engaging the clutch like that, might be alright. Somebody else will have to answer that one. If you had the floor mounted switch, that's really all you need for basic operation. It is wired to work independently of the other switches.
The floor switch allows you to shift between gears. 3rd and 4th gear are synchronized. You can shift from 2nd to 3rd to 4th while moving and from 4th back down to 3rd gear. 1st and 2nd gear are NOT synchronized and you need to be stopped to select those. You don't have to have the floor switch but you will need to be stopped and select the gear you want before you put the shuttle in forward or reverse with the column lever and the have the engine at idle. It's a whole lot easier to go between gears if you have the floor switch circuit working.