I want a complete set of decals for my 580SE. Case shows this set as a # N8348 for like $6oo I found this aftermarket set for $155, but the photo seems to be only the main portion. http://www.reliableaftermarketpartsinc.com/servlet/the-9840/Case-Construction-King-580E/Detail I have searched with no luck finding these. Does anyone have a suggestion for finding these decals. Mine is 2WD.
I have had good luck with http://www.quipcal.com/ .
I got 580K decals from these guys Dynamic Signs and Graphix in Milwaukee off E-bay. The decals were great and when I contacted them because I screwed up a "construction king" decal, they sent me a replacment free. Good Luck
I have sent an email to both of these with no response yet. Quipcal shows only Cat decals on their website. Dynamic Signs does not show any either. That set I found has most of the larger main ones, and I bet I will have to pay Case for the others or tape and paint around them. I do not know if these are the best quality, but as long as the look the same it will be Ok for me. Some of mine are in real bad shape. I would like to remove the decals, paint and put new ones on that can be read.
Most decal shops don't provide all the various nick nack and safety (danger...warning) decals in their kits, but if you take a clean pic of these type decals and note dimensions they will make them for you. Most shops just provide the main decals in their kits. Call Brent at Associated Graphix. http://www.associatedgraphix.com/
bowen-look on e-bay .item #220750090224 look's like full set for $70.00 tb
Wow. I had already looked on EBay and missed this. It's weird they do not really show a 580 Super E, but in the photos they show one. I have sent them a message asking about this. If they are correct this is the cheapest price I have seen. And to Willie I will eventually want some of the various nick nack stuff. My problem will be that some of them will not be in good enough shape to get copied. Now I am working under trhe hood painting the air box etc. Thanks!
Bowen, It doesn't matter what shape your decals are in. Take photos of the decals that are not in the set. Email them along the dimensions of them to a couple of decal shops. They can reproduce about anything you send them. I have had some done with perfect results.
Bowen I got my decals from Custom Services Co Inc 768 N.W End Blvd Quakertown PA 1895 I paid 75$ for the whole set on my 580 SE and were perfect They must be a division of Quip - Cal I called by phone don't bother with the email
You are correct Bill. They are one and the same.
This was weird. I contacted them 1st via their online form with no response. Then when I looked at the EBay link from trevor b, it was the same folks. I just ordered a set of 580SE decals from Dynamic Signs... The set cost me $59.99 + $6 shipping. (Cheaper to deal direct, NOT thru E-Bay) Thanks for all the suggestions. :notworthy
send pic's when painted tb
Air Box Painted, Before-During-After Up around the air filters was a 1/4" layer of dust that I could not reach to clean. I took the whole assembly off and cleaned it inside and out. You can see all the junk that was between the bracket & fuel tank, starting to rust both parts. I repainted all the parts unassembled, including the frame mount. I ordered a new vent valve for the other side. New air filters etc. Get this. The inner filter actually looked pretty clean but the date on it was 1989. All this is on temp only. I am going to take it back off, remove the fuel tank to paint it and replace the shut off valve in the bottom that is bad. Next will be the front end and battery box. Bowen
Battery Box/Top, Before, Treated, and after I had a problem with the battery box from a incident with a stump. It was bent pretty bad, and the top would not fit on. I had to stand on the battery to climb on the machine. I took it off and torched out the crooked step rung, necessary to get the sides straight. Then I cut a new rung from 1/2" x 2" CR bar. It was amazing how much rust was under the battery. I cleaned all this as best possible then treated the thing with Ospro. This leaves some white residue which I had to wire-brush off. I primed all the parts then finished them with 3 coats of Case Power Tan paint. This stuff is good spraying paint. Dries fast and look good after thinning a good bit with Xylene. It is strong smelling paint and I learned the hard way to use a mask, even outside. Bowen
Front End 580SE The heavy duty front end was pretty beat up at the front corners. I had to use a file and a grinder to smoothe out the places damaged by trees etc. It looked like someone whacked the corners with an axe. Case never really painted this thing good new. It looks like they paint these after they are assembled. The big spot with no paint was where the foam around the radiator sits. This is the paint I used. I also painted the hood and grill brown.
nice work so far can't wait to see whole thing when done . tb merry ho ho ho to all my new h.e.f. friends .
This is my $65 set of decals that finally showed up. I don't need the extendahoe part, but they came with it.
Wow, that machine is going to look sharp when you are done. You have to post pics.
I did get the rebuilt battery box all back on and my engine ground cable underneath back in place. I am proud to have the step/top back on so that I don't have to step on the battery climbing off the machine. The radiator looked pretty bad where that had boiled it to repair the leaks, so I decided to paint this also before installing the front end. I did not paint the aluminum fins on the oil cooler.
Nice work! I'm focusing on the worn out parts this year. Next year painting (maybe)
I am still trying to repair this one also, but as I take stuff off I am trying to de-rust and paint the parts. I learned that after you clean the oil off the cooler lines, they will rust bright red, so I had to sand & paint them also. I did get the front end & grill back on yesterday. The grill was all bent up from tree limbs and I managed to straighten out the holes. All I like here is the lower brace/pump cover which was one of the worst parts. It is skinned up, rusted and covered with oil & dirt from where the oil cooler was leaking. I found some 2" black foam to fill the gaps around and on top of the radiator. I am using new stainless bolts and may not paint them.
Looking great! I have found that if you oil the threads or use a thin film of grease, the stainless bolts won't seize up if over torqued and much easier to remove years down the road. I replace any bolt I can with stainless. Some people don't like them but I have never had problems with them.
Very Nice! The stainless bolts look great, I wouldn't paint them
Where did you get the paint, a dealer or on-line? I know the yellow is powertan (B17662) what did you use for the brown? Is it enamel?
I got both from a local Case dealer. The brown is # B14977 for a gallon; also available in qts. I also got some B17660N spray cans of the Power Tan that I used in a few small places. Online the paint is cheaper, but some places will not ship paint: local pickup only. This is mean paint that is made to spray. Thin/cleanup with Xylene and you don't need to work in a closed in place, because the fumes are rough. It does spray good and dries fast, and so far no problems except for the cold weather. It needs to be above 50 degrees to use. This is about $60 a gallon but I am hoping to paint the thing with only 2 gallons.
Nice work. Cant wait to see it when its done!
I painted my Super E ,using a gallon and a half with a hvlp gun.
Bowen, what was the ratio you used to thin the Case paint with the Xylene?? Dave
Maybe a 10:1 ratio. I thried to not thin the paint too much because it seem pretty thin to start with. But you have to thin it some just to get it to spray good. Real thin coats and it dries so fast you can recoat just in 5-10 minutes. 3 coats worked pretty good for me, just make sure the last coat look real wet and shiny. :cool2 I am working on the seat assembly now, but it's all black except for the base, which was really rusty. I ground all the paint off the base and treated it with some rust treatment. I have to wet sand it next and then get the metal primed before putting on the tan.
I FINALLY got the engine problems fixed so I could get the hood and side panels back on. So I got the large decals and the side panel latches back on. As you can see I am painting mine is sections as I remove stuff, whatever. Hopefully I will get to the ROPS as I have time this summer.
Was your fuel tank ok ? They are bad to rust out on the bottom.
It's OK, but did have a small amount of rust showing over on the right side. No leaks, and I did put in new drain and cutoff fittings. I really wanted to take the tank off and clean it inside and out; plus paint it, but it was a lost cause. In another thread here I learned that's it a big deal needing to remove the hyd filter and some top engine parts at least.
Well maybe you got lucky, mine looked like yours does between the air filter at the bottom and both ends but after a visit to the rad. shop and a bunch of cleaning she was dry not a big job at all to pull it once the hood is off I think the hydro filter will lean foward and I don't remember any engine parts but it has been a while now.
PM me if you need decals, I can make just about anything you need (cheap).....