We have a pete road truck converted to dump truck. The beast is so low and flexible that it flattens the fuel tanks a good 3 inches. Is there such a thing as a commercial offroad lift? What is good and how much would it run?
Going to have to know what the suspension is, and go from there. Just a few thoughts, if its air ride 4 bag, just adjust the leveling valve to get the bags up a ways. If its running low pro 22.5 rubber, get some taller rubber put on it, tall 24.5 or 22.5. There's no way to stiffen up the frame flex, without going to the work of double frame.
Road tractors do not situate well to Dump Service conversion, frames are too springy, suspensions too soft, sit too low. Know a good many converted that hauled asphalt for paving contractors but did not have to do much off road. And just spacing axles up sets off a whole lot of bad geometry concerns.
Yes, ours is actually an asphault truck, but we have to take grindings and such to the landfill periodically. Honestly, i hate it for paving operations. Between the soft chassis and the lack of suspension dump valve, the bed leans out a good foot or so just from moderate road crown with a full load. It definitely makes you pucker until the load breaks.
Can consider smaller Diameter tanks, going to a Single Tank mounted back and higher on frame, still will be concerns with other mechanisms dragging when do not want. Setting up a dump valve will save you from laying it over from a bridged load, may want to reconsider the truck in general.
I can't raise the bags, the pintle hook is a good 2+ inch higher than the other truck, which would make the trailers even worse, and the lack of dump valve would make dumping heavy loads really stressful on the bags. Have full sized tires. No shorties.
Agreed. Our mechanic says he cant do dump valves...... I'm not experienced in semi truck mods, or even much general mechanics on semi trucks, lots of gasser knowledge, but its adding up quickly.(I'm very engineer and mechanically minded) If you could give me a general parts list and quick breakdown for the job, that would be cool. He claims the electric valves on these bags won't dump('15 peterbuilt? Have an older one with really slow dump valves on it as well.). I would be perfectly happy doing it myself if I already understand the job.
Oh, I forgot. They looked into smaller tanks and fell out of their chairs at the price(I told them they were pricey....).
If cannot do dump valves I would be eliminating the machine, is an accident looking to happen, air bags do NOT care as to left or right being a load holder, only interested in maintaining ride height on the control valve where side to side means NOTHING, setting it on the blocks is the ONLY safe way to dump a load on these.
Air suspension on a dump truck is a disaster waiting to happen IMHO, whatever the suspension height. We've been through this same argument a few times over the years. "Proper" tippers have something like this under the back end - either alternative is acceptable. The old adage of polishing a turd springs to mind.
Dump valve is easy. Run the line from the leveling valve to the cab and back to the bags using a flip valve to shut off and exhaust the bags. It's actually a faster system than most remote dump valves. You also want to make sure your bags have stop pads in them. Not all of them do.
Looks simple enough, and they sell the new style dash toggles. Seems the whole job will only be about $100 in switch, fittings and hose. I'll have to check the bags, as this setup was designed around no dump valves.
I had the same tank issue on a Kenworth dump, I got two 50 gallon step tanks and brackets from an International S-1900 for nearly free. Drilled some new holes and had miles of tank clearance. 100 gallons of fuel did everything we needed for a day.
If its a 15 peterbilt, is it a 567/579 model? They use electric solinoids to control the air accessories. Very hard to believe it didnt come with a dump valve from factory. Proper way is to install the solinoid, wire it to the chassis node, program the cecu and install a switch. It can be programmed to dump the bags when the pto is engaged. Easy way is to just run an air line to an old style air rocker. Steer axle can be spaced up and longer u bolts installed, they come at various heights from the factory. Suspension should be air trac, but being converted could have low air or flex air. Worst case low low air. Want to post the last 6 of the s/n and i can see whats on it
Spot on DMiller ! One additional gadget we added was dual port & starboard side dump valve's so the driver could adjust the suspension for the slope . . http://www.heavytruckforums.com/showthread.php?263-Some-Holmes-750-action&p=2462&viewfull=1#post2462
I'll get the numbers on monday(if I remember). I believe the older truck uses the solenoid, and it takes 10 minutes to dump...... That's not the business. I want something fast, and likely it will have to be cheap for me to get it. It would be nice to not have to low gear crank the skip off the pintle hook as well.
Agree Nige . Cant imagine what it would be like spreading stone with air suspension on the C-60 Chevy . Probably be calling the Old Man to bring the wrecker . LOL
It's been a busy couple weeks.... here's the VIN.
Truck is a 2013 386 ex-werner truck Super light spec, nothing on this truck is desirable for a dump truck 10speed trans. Flex air suspension 3.42 ratio 40 rears Flex air is about the worst suspension for that application No dump valve like you said, didn't even know the truck could be ordered without one. Pete part numbers to install a factory dump valve are as follows 08-03315 ride height valve with dump G90-6022-009BN Air rocker switch Couple 1/4 male pipe to 1/4 synflex 90 degree fittings 30 ish feet of 1/4 synflex A generic switch and valve could be bought for alot less then the pete ones
Make for damn certain the Pete rebound blocks are bolted on the frame above the banjo housings over the air leaf packs for something to bottom out on.
Its funny.... I asked the mechanic we have, and he said, "oh yeah, I just have to run a hose to the valve and get the switch and it'll dump fine." I was going to take a pic of the valves as well to double check with you guys, since I've learned that the quickest answers come from experience. I'm sure your right and it doesn't. Now you guys understand my struggle at the moment. Lol
my favorite truck at work......
God that looks sktechy .........
A little more Lean than I would tolerate.
A little more..? I'd say a ***king lot more than I would tolerate. How long will the seals in the dump body lift cylinder last when they are side-loaded like that..? On any truck where the body goes up on hydraulics with a load in it that requires gravity to overcome friction to get it out, IMHO it should have something like the illustration below between the chassis and the rear axles ......... anything else is a turd-polishing exercise. (thanks to walkerv for the photo)
The mechanic was driving it. I wouldn't have put it up that much. I watched it lean on the last push, and the slow way it stopped leaning made my butt pucker. I wasn't even in it.
This is what happens when side load a cylinder, they are not structural.
Just be careful it doesn't end up like this .........
I hated dumping stockpile with a Trailer dump. Lock trailer brakes and allow truck to suck about halfway back, set truck then release trailer brakes drag trailer OUT of the pile. Fertilizer sucked worst, crap would bridge and there it would sit trickling out with the trailer about a halfway point and it WOULD Sit there or get lowered and HAND Shoveled back. Trying to figure why so many of these airheads would leave the cab with hoist engaged in UP?
One of MY delivery days, and I made CERTAIN it was where I could deal with it.
You had an advantage DM - the material you had in the truck body actually flowed. Not a coin toss like hot asphalt.
Damned Urea would pack in Tended to bridge up at nose even with a Poly liner would sit and hang Had a soft face dead blow would whap the trailer with to dislodge But yes nothing like hotmix Guys here diesel spray their beds first and keep hang spots dressed down or patched over
I watched these videos . most of the damage in my op came from sheer stupidity. do these people have no concept of what a load is?
Ya, with hot mix, the problem is you cant predict the break. We diesel down, eventhough we are supposed to E soy now(crap in comparison). We just keep the drops off the front of the box. With this truck, if it's too sketchy, we lower it a bit and bump it to get it to shift, then raise it.
Those blown cylinders make me not want to drive a dump anymore. Scary **!!
Just PAY ATTENTION, do not let the bed start twisting as that is how those happened. Bridged loads is some scary ****!!
Can you understand now why people freaked out at the photo in your post #22...?
I always pay attention when lifting. I'm also always trying to set myself on level ground whenever possible. I've had all sorts of randomness happen with loads, but have been fortunate enough to not tip one over or blow a cylinder. I had one overweight with dirt bridge, and I felt the tires try to come up. Had to put it down and change the approach. Different truck than this one. I told the operator(my boss) to stop packing the dirt into the bed and leave a gap at the head board. Dangerous crap for $80 a load charged and taking it to a free dump that is sloped.
I freaked out the first time I took it with hot mix, just on a crowned road. That was a year and a half ago when I told the owner the truck is dangerous.
That's an excellent point Jeckl1920 . Rare when spreading a load of product on a road that the truck is always level . One trick I've seen asphalt drivers do on slopes is dump in the paver until they feel it starting to get " Funky" . Then they will lower the bed and close the tail gate . Pull up & over the road crown to get the truck level and raise the bed to put the remainder of the load against the tail gate . Then back up to the paver and finish out dumping with the load at the back of the bed acting as " counterweight " on the slope . When spreading stone on an extreme slope I will " short load " the truck and load it so its heavy on the upper side of the truck bed when spreading. Dumping at a stockpile is easier because your stationary and can roll a rear tire up on the edge of a previous load to level the truck up for safe dump . This world aint all level …. Ya gotta do what ya gotta do .
Ya, most of our work is patches, so we usually use the old bobtail, which is way safer. Holds less and has no bags.... and no ac. When I have to use this, it's always a balancing act on the first patch or 3.