Hello all- My second post on this-been working too much and just got back around to fixing the bobcat. It's a 773G turbo, overheated once or twice but didn't run it hot. Now coolant in the oil and guess I've got a bad head gasket or crack in the head. I just drained the coolant out of the crankcase and tried to start it. Wouldn't turn over, so I turned the crankshaft a half an inch by hand and it fired right up. Question- I suspect the coolant has seized or rusted the main bearings a little but not enough to keep it from cranking. Considering that, should I pull the entire engine and go through it ( not my first choice ) or maybe just drain the oil, flush and refill the crankcase then just pull the head. It's only had water in the crankcase for a few months-was running fine until then. Thanks.
1: What is the difference between overheated and ran hot? 2: If it is the bearings I doubt you could turn it by hand if the starter won't. 3: Coolant in a cylinder is possible. Pull the head first.
Water in the crankcase " only for a few months" - pull the engine now and have done with it. If i's had coolant in the lubrication system for that length of time you're going to be doing a top-to-bottom on it anyway, the problems won't just be confined to the cylinder head/gasket area.
Thanks guys. I'd just about decided to pull the engine anyway.
As much as you might not want to do the complete job right now trying to do 1/2 the job will only mean you will very likely be doing the half job twice! So in the end you will be doing 1 and 1/2 of the job.
Thanks kshansen. The thing is I've had this machine for 10 years and really babied it on the farm. Changed the fluids before they were do etc. It was not burning a drop of oil before this and not smoking, etc. Do you think the coolant in the crankcase would have ruined the lower end even if I didn't run it? I hear what you're saying about doing the whole engine. By the way, this engine is put in sideways. The maual says disconnect all hydraulic lines and lots of other stuff, but wouldn't I just need to disconnect the main drive belt to the hydraulic pump and other obvious connections then lift the engine out? Thanks.
Just a bit concerned about the coolant being in the engine for " a few months"! As how to remove I can't help there never even looked at a 773G. Guess I'd give it a try your way and worst that could happen is you do have to go back to the book version if there is something that prevents it from coming out without the pump. Is there a chance the pump and motor are mounted to a separate frame to make things easier at the factory?
After you remove the main pump drive belt, you will have to remove the flywheel and you will find engine mounting bolts behind the flywheel. Other than that its fairly straight forward. I like pulling the whole power unit, like the manual is suggesting but not necessary if your only working on engine.
That makes sense from what I see. Couldn't see the fourth engine mount so it must be the one behind the flywheel. The manual is not that helpful. Thanks.
What's the worst case for not pulling the engine and just pulling the head? Yesterday I drained all the oil ( and coolant mixed with it ), drained all the coolant, filled crankcase with oil and ran it for a minute to preserve it a bit. Cranked and ran fine.
Unless you have X-Ray eyes you can only see what's in front of you. OK, so you pull the head and you can see whatever you can see. However whatever is buried below the piston crowns is invisible. Effectively you are tossing a coin and hoping that there's nothing wrong deeper inside the engine. You have to do some fairly major work to get the head off, why not just do the job once and do it right..?
Many thanks. I'm sure you're right. Thanks.
I'm pulling the engine based on recommendations here. I've got the V2003 with turbo. It sits sideways or east-west in the machine and uses a drive belt to spin the pump. Just got a servivce manual. Question- I'd like to just pull the engine if possible and it looks like I might just pull the flywheel, remove the bolts securing the housing to the engine, then pull the engine. Is that possible? The reason is I'm not too comfortable disconnecting all the hydraulics unless I have to. Thanks again.
Should just be removing the battery, disconnecting intake and exhaust piping, throttle cable, ground cable, motor mounts and wiring. Pull the drive belt, starter and flywheel, unbolt and pull it out. Flywheel bolts are 17mm 12pt, IIRC. They're pretty straightforward, and no real reason to pull the whole unit unless you need to. I wouldn't disconnect the hydraulics unless you have the caps and plugs for it, and either some colored zip ties or wire to mark what goes where.
Thanks Marshall. Really don't want to break into the hydraulics. I'll post a followup for other members. Appreciate the support.