This is my "inherited" '86 d6. I think it is an "S" designation model due to the exploded parts drawings I've found. My father-in-law traded a 977 loader for it and it needs a little work. just wondering if anyone can tell me exactly where the various parts are supposed to go. i think the half round steel pieces are bearings that go in the push arms etc. and i havent been able to figure where the rest of the stuff goes. running on a college budget right now and have run equipment just never got to work on the stuff.(I know just lucky and careful... never broken anything ) The cylinder ring I'm thinking of welding back together and reinforcing with a steel strap or some small steel half rounds i have laying around (they're about 1/2 dia and used to have my cert. as a welder) any suggestions would be appreciated. the local Cat place is as useless as my brother-in-law( :deadhorse :guns :Banghead :cussing ) and aren't any help. Thanks in advance!
And More... Any ideas what i can replace that hitch with? It looks rough and leaky but the old fella replaced everyhing leaking (had replaced? :beatsme) and never gave the old girl a bath after.
Don't know how the 4 wheeler got in there. any way gotta get off here for awhile. got a psychology test at 11 and its 3:30 here.:beatsme:bash:Banghead
What Goes Where? Hi, Bear. What goes where? The long flat strips with the round buttons on them look to me like the wear strips that fit into the front idler mountings and act as replaceable contacts between the idler mounting brackets and the top of the track frame rail. There ought to be some rubber-coated springs to go with those wear strips/runners. The springs fit into holes in the idler mounting and then the buttons on the wear strips fit into the same holes so that the springs press down on them to take any slack out of the vertical plane for the idler. The part-round saddle-looking jiggers appear to be the saddles that the outer ends of the equaliser bar rest on in the track frame. The 'clearway' through the centre of the saddle straddles the front idler adjusting shaft just behind the front idler yoke and I think there are sets of rubbers that fit between the saddle and its bed in the track frame. That broken eye in the bottom end of the blade tilt ram just needs a little TLC from a good welder (LOL.) - and maybe a little finishing work with a die grinder or something similar. I have no idea where those half-round bushes go but I doubt they would go into anywhere on the push arms as they look to be greaseable and there ain't many dozers with a lot of greaseable pivots in the push arms. Hope this helps. Happy fiddling.
Okey dokey Thanks Deas! :notworthy :salute yes there are a couple of rubber bushing spring thingies there one is still in the plastic a little more to the middle of the track (meant to take a picture of the things by themselves) I remember the old fella saying something needed to be done about the track and didn't remember till you jogged the thought loose thanks! I've been considering welding the cylinder ring back and so forth. thanks again sir! anyone else?
Hi Bear: Looks like a D6-C tractor. Those "half round steel pieces" are bushings that go between the roller frame wishbone and the final drive dead axle shafts (trunions) at the rear of the tractor. If you crawl under the back, just forward of the drawbar and look up, you'll see a grease zirt and four bolts on each side that hold a cap on top. That is the end of the wishbone where they go (the other end of the wishbones are welded to the roller frames). To replace them, you'll probably have to loosen or remove the U-bracket bolts on the final drive carrier (outside center of the finals under the rock guard) and raise the tractor, although you may get lucky and simply spin them in Make sure there is a dowel pin on the top caps or the bushings will rotate and you won't be able to grease these bushings. Since you're replacing the equalizer bar saddles on the roller frames anyway, I suggest you check the equalizer bar in the center for cracks. I've had a few of them break due to metal fatigue. Murphy's Law states that if it does break, you won't be on flat ground! There are 4 bolts with a nylon bushing that hold the bar at the center of the tractor between the belly pans. I know you're already aware but never hurts to repeat safety issues. Make SURE you block this tractor carefully before working on the trunion bushings or the equalizer bar. George New "kid" on the block.
Something else just hit my head any ideas where i can find the serial #('s) for the old girl? Thanks D-man I appreciate it and it never hurts to remind anyone anywhere of safety risks involved on things. crap happens and i hate getting hurt (I'll post a pic on here of my last injury that needed stitches ) Thanks again and all input is appreciated. :notworthy :notworthy :notworthy :notworthy
If this is a 10K model and memory serves,the serial number tag is between the left brake petal and the left clutch on the firewall, facing the seat. George
If your sitting in the seat you should be able to see the serial numbers. One for the tractor and one for the engine.
The tractor serial no. should also be on the back of the tractor...in your pic of the back end it should be in the upper left corner of the flat back face of the housing. Number should be stamped in....might have to scrape the paint off to read it. Engine should have a s/n tag on the side of the block...think mine is on the left side towards the rear. (3306 engine) The hydraulic control tank (front left on tank) and the blade(right rear face, near top) also have s/n's which will be helpful when ordering parts.
Can't tell from the pics if it's a D6c or D6d...if the brake pedals pivot below the floor plates it's "C"....if they pivot up in the dash it's a "D" The tilt control for the "C" should be 2-way pedal on left side....the "D" should have a 4-way lever for blade up/down/tilt instead.
Any one have a shop manual or something scanned that i can use to idiot proof this for myself? a drwing would be good called the local CAT dealer/shop (60 miles away :Banghead ointhead) and they want me to dish out 300 or so for the entire bleedin book. wont even make a copy of the relavant pages. these guys have me steamed. :cussing :guns These guys will never get my business. Thanks for all the help guys I appreciate it. I ever get out of college and get back to a REAL job the suds are on me! :drinkup :drinkup :drinkup :drinkup
You can usually find manuals an e-bay, but they probably won't be cheap either. Just be sure you getting ones that are for the correct model & serial no. range. The full set of manuals (at least for my D6c) consists of: Tractor Parts Engine Parts Hydraulic Control Parts Buldozer Parts Service Manual Maintenance Manual From Cat the full set runs $400 plus With my local dealer (Zeigler) you can get all the parts manual info online if you create an account with them. It has all the same graphics as the printed manuals, although not as convenient as being able to flip through a book. Did you fiind the model / serial no. for the machine and engine?
Bear, I have a D6 10K, a 1975, that looks just like yours. The ''s'' model is the dozer blade model number. On the back of the blade ,on the right side, you will find the blade serial number. As said before the tractor serial numbers are by the pedals and on the back. The number is etched in the metal if the tag is gone. As for the leaky hitch I would say that is fuel that dripped from the fuel shutoff. Its behind that cover under the tank. I'd say weld up the tilt cylinder and giv-er!. Looks like she's got good tracks on her. Good luck
My father in law has a D6 like that at his cattle ranch, has the original tracks yet. What a cherry, don't know the year but it's a wet deck, direct start and hyd dozer
Thanks! Thanks again d-mandan! Having a little trouble getting into that ziegler site contacted their webmaster hope that will solve things there. Dpete, yeah this is a sweet machine and it has some serious sentimental value too (so does the old backhoe, It'll cost me more to fix the backgoe than it will the dozer) like i said my pappy in law owned the old girl and never got around to fixing her, and he was trying to get things going again untill cancer made him so weak he couldn't get out ov bed. I respected the old guy very much and miss him alot, they don't make folks like him any more. didn't get pst third grade but made a good living farming and doing oddball stuff for people. I've seen times when he could bust rock faster with a sledgehammer than my brother in law ( :cussing :guns ) could with a jackhammer. He was a good man and signed the thing over a week before he died and told me to get her running and make some money. I hated getting the old girl like that and tried to talk him out of it but dang if i'm not going to do it. He always knew i enjoyed my work operating here and thee and more often than not i would operate instead of him, never understood why he loved iron like that so much. guess i kind of know now.
D-5 I know this thread is about D-6, but I was reading this and I remember the D-5 I used to operate had the blade tilt on the right side and it was only a two way peddle push system beyond the break peddle, also the clutch was on the left side and the blade control was on the right side with a arm rest. I couldn't tell you what year it was but I know it was a 6 cylinder non turbo. The D-7 I operated for a brief time was just a bigger model with a turbo and it had more power and operated about the same.
A couple of other boards that can help.... http://www.antiquecaterpillar.net/ACF_v2/ http://www.acmoc.org/ACMOC_BB/ http://discuss.ibdozing.com/cgi-bin/discus/discus.cgi Hope this helps, Alan627B If there is another cat dealer or equipment dismantler in your area, sometimes the used department sells manuals too. hope this helps.
New pics coming maybe vid too! Tonight or tomorrow i should have a few pics and video to add. Got to fire the old girl up and move her so i can get to the old boiler in back. I have everything figured out as to where it goes and should have everything on and the cylinder fixed by this weekend hopefully and will post some vid and pics of this kitty's claws!
Another thing Thanks for your help guys and anything i can do in return i will. Now back to my Thermodynamics class. :bash :Banghead :bash :spaz :sleeping
couple more shots Here's a few more. Fired the girl up this evening and moved her so i can be at my tools. Here are a couple more pics, unfortunately my sidekick screwed up and deleted the video i had. :Banghead Evidently my father-in-law adjusted the shifter so there are only 2 gears in either direction sometime after i left for bridge work neutral is rough getting into and he had been running it at idle and ruined the bearings in the turbo :Banghead something else to fix. never ends, when it rains it pours.
Bear, Clean those tags in your first pic and see what the serial no. is. Idling engine will not ruin turbo bearings. Is the turbo leaking oil? As for the shifting, take off floorboard and look at all the balljoints in the linkage. They may be worn out. Do you have trouble getting it in or out of gear? this may be a transmission oil pressure problem. I've had all the problems your talking about and fixed them before. Good Luck.
Bear, yeah that blade peddle you posted was like the old D-5 I operated but it was on the other site of the floor and a little past the brake. I'd agree idling doesn't ruin a turbo but maybe the age and just being out in the elements might over time because moisture has a way of breaking stuff. Good luck on the repairs.
I've checked the joints in the linkage of the shifter, a friend was over and he told me about the old fella adjusting the shifter so it would never hit 3'rd gear, evidently that was too fast for him. . I've taken the paint off the tags and gotten the serials that was just a before shot, the thing had a bad spray job all the paint is now peeling off the rops and goes down my shirt and everything, gonna take a pressure washer to it and get all that off.
The pedal to the left of the brake pedal is for the tilt cylinder .D6C serial number shoud start as 10K....... Looking at the lift cylinders top could be 10k4000 on up to 10k10000. I had close to one of the last D6C make it was 10k12973 they was a few in the 13000,but not many maybe 2 to 3 hundred i think.Mine was a 1976 year. Just sold it last spring to a local farmer.Good luck with your project. If it has set for a while if they are not leak,it might start when you get to working it would be the seals around the shaft on the hydraulic tank where the controls come out of the tank.They was bad to leak anyway. You well have to take the hydaulic tank out and split it because the seal has to come out from the inside part of the tank.I never liked that idea.It would have been better to have the seal come out the front then you wouldn't have to take the tank out. Might want to check the shafts on the control levers for grooves on the shaft where the seal run.If bad replace them or you still will have leak and you will get to redo it again.:usa
It's definitely fuel leaking. glad i only put enough in to move her, especially at 4.xx a gallon. Just about have the tranny sorted out, the shifter had been adjusted way out of whack. It had no prob going into gear just had two forward and rev. Turbo back together and she purrs. Now to get a new camera after i ran over it with the dozer. :Banghead