as some of you read before or not i have a mustang 345 and having a heck of a time with this thing.i have one side of the drive motor doing nothing.i have pulled it and will be switching motors tomorrow to make sure it is the motor itself. here is the problem.i bought it with no motor and torn apart so i really never got to test the hydraulics side of the machine.i can get the motor rebuilt for 900.00.id like to see what a new one runs if it is the motor but finding parts for this has been a nightmare.no longer available through the dealer.anyone know if these motors were used in any other machine?it is a Sperry Vickers.here are the numbers i got off the motor.435274 and COJ DD so this is one question.even if i have only one side working shouldn't the machine turn at least one direction?the side not working is still missing the smaller chain that connects to the drive motor but i thought i could at least get the machine to do a doughnut.it will only move forward and back. is the only way to test a drive motor by switching them around or just the easiest?i don't have a problem doing this its just i had to watch a 100.00 worth of hydraulic fluid poor all over my garage floor from removing the bad motor or (not turning motor).why you ask..well they say live and learn and well i did just that. i will never remove a hydraulic hose again without proper caps or plugs.so im guessing there is no way to bench test these without proper equipment i just though i would ask as it sitting on my bench cleaned. last one if i switch the motors and its bad would you just send it off to get rebuilt as is or would you open it up and inspect it first.i don't really know what to look for but it is hard to turn by hand..actually i cant turn it by hand and i read it should be that way. thanks to any who chime in.im stuck out in the middle of no where and getting a buddy to lend a hand way out here is like pulling teeth.
A few answers Jay. The reason the machine won't turn is that it will rely on the left side to lock up, with the right side driving - without the chain to connect to the motor it can't happen...... the left side has to SKID to STEER...... Swapping drive motors around is a bad idea - if a motor is bad & contaminated with metal you will be then contaminating the other side. If your machine had a bad motor in it when you bought it, I would be very concerned about the condition of the pumps. There is no filter between pumps & motors, so any damage in a motor will be mirrored in the pump. If you repair your old motor & fit it to the machine & the pumps are bad - your new motor will last about 10mins & you will be back to where you were & poorer. The best way to test a motor is with 1) gauges - checking charge pressure at no load & under load & 2) leakage - every motor has leakage, measuring how much it has tell how worn it is. A service manual will tell you how to test your machine - you need one if you intend to do your own repairs. :drinkup
thanks alrman! i will take this information and use it to further diagnose.i'm guessing the motor needs to be on the machine to perform these tests?i will check the manual the dealer sent me.the one i got from agri-con manuals is garbage.i didn't mention in this thread that my bucket up,down,tilt work great.so the pumps are working decent for now.thats not to say i get things going and something craps out on me i guess but what i do have is very responsive.
The pump that operates the lift & tilt is different to the pumps that provide your drive. Equipment pump = $1000 Transmission pumps = $6000.........
oh boy.this will be another lesson learned.i will never again buy a machine to do a repower unless i know the machines history!!
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Reply to your earlier message regarding advertisement of products. I apologize. What exactly does it require to support your programs? Please advise. Thank You