1970 580CK. Got a long hairline crack (12 inches) in the block from 'decades ago' from what my buddy told me when he sold it to me. He assumes it's a coolant freeze crack as there's no coolant/oil mixing. Weeps coolant in drips constantly. Never gave me any issues as long as I topped off coolant before use. Can't sell the damn thing as everyone that sees it gets scared off. Tried some Steel Stick JB on it. Cleaned and grooved it up real good. didnt take. Was thinking about some bars leak or blue devil block seal but am scared it could clog the radiator and such. Lock n stitch seems to be an option but i can't pull the engine and the crack is damn long. Also considering brazing, but never done that before. and got a buddy that can TIG weld, but that scares me too. Suggestions?
Is it accessible for a stick welder. Lots of guys have luck with nickle rod. (With proper prep work) stitching is by far the best, but it's a PITA! Stay away from stop leak/bars leak all that garbage. It will stop flow where it matters most.
yea ive got pretty good access. will look into nickel rod.
If you go the nickel electrode route, look up Eutectic Xuper Nucleotec 2222 or something similar from another supplier. Designed for the nuclear industry and has insane elongation capabilities. I'll warn you now, a box of it ain't cheap......... https://www.castolin.com/product/eutectrode-xuper-nucleotec-2222
I see there is a guy on Ebay with some of the rods that Nige recommends. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-CASTOLIN-EUTECTIC-2222-XUPER-NUCLEOTEC-DC-ELECTRODE-ROD-1-8-11-LB/323920320624?hash=item4b6b27d870:g:ZQkAAOSwz3ZdgoQ2:sc:
I've got a few friends that TIG weld. is stick better for some reason, or just the most popular due to cost?
Can you get a right angle drill in there to do the lock n stitch repair?
if they can get hod of a TIG filler rod of a similar specification to the 2222 it should be no major issue. Access will be the killer.
What about brazing, it seems in the old days that's what was used for this type repair.
I would assume any proper weld/braze in this situation would require disassemble of the engine and the entire block would need to heated to a certain temp to eliminate warpage/draw. I doubt there is any specific on what that temp is, but may included in the paper work with the rods mentioned above. Also slowing the cool of the steel would need to be considered as well.
I have had good success with jbWeld in water jacket cracks. Needs to be ve e e d and clean. I did mine in hot weather and two coats one week apart. Advantage is no engine removal or disassembly required. Can be ground smooth.
I knew a guy that would MIG weld cracks in blocks and seemed to have success. Maybe try JB weld or other type of epoxy and if it doesn't hold, could be ground off and try something else.
Belzona makes some very good epoxy and two part products for repairs. I have used it a hand full of times on engines and gearboxes. seems to always work and last. not the cheapest stuff. https://www.belzona.com/en/products/purpose/metal-repair.aspx
I just acquired a 580ck that I am trying to do full rebuild of the engine and wanted to get advice on using the original block or trying to find another one. the block has a few small verical cracks at the top where the sleeves sit. i heard this is pretty common and should not pose a problem since the orings are at the bottom portion and the head gasket will seal the top. This seems to be ok, but the main concern I have is that at the front of the block there are two lower front mounting ears broken off where the block mounts to the chassis. It appears the PO left the bolts loose and the engine shook itself. I was thinking I could possibly use washers over what is left of the ears or maybe try building them back with weld. One of the top ears has a small crack, but it is not broken off. Looking around I found a used block for $1300, but who knows how much better it is. I got the backhoe for free and it came with a rear ganon
There is a product called muggy weld on ebay that can be used either tig weld or arc welder, specifically for welding engine blocks.
Wow ! $123 per pound ... Caviar of Welding rods. https://caviarmalosol.com/products/...=4587849710558485&utm_content=Beluga Sturgeon
Anything to fix this? Joe H
I've had very good success with Lincoln Ni-55 over the years including cylinder blocks but not with one installed into a chassis. The weld puddle is too fluid to do much anything out of position and will run easily.
Yikes! Hell no.
Thats a good one you win the prize, must be out of a truck as the air governor is hanging.
It is fully disassembled and out of the tractor, do you think it is worth trying to remake the ears with ni-55? have you heard of vertical cracks at the top walls where the sleeves go?
If you mean to build up for a broken or missing piece, no, I do not think that would work. Ni-55 is very ductile in nature and "stringy" to drill and tap. It really is not a structural material at all IMO. I'm not familiar with the engines used in those tractors; sorry.
So it's beyond JBWeld? Joe H
I don't mess with that stuff
If you do the nickel rod, have a welding hammer handy and pre & post heat. After you weld, use the pointy end and hammer it. Why: The weld will shrinks as it cools. It pulls at the casting. The casting is brittle and the nickel will pull the casting apart, making a crack on both sides of the weld... Using the hammer will spread out the nickel stopping the pulling and hopefully pushing the nickel into the weld. I haven't welded a block, but I've welded other casting and had great luck with nickel. Post heat: The other thing I would try to do is to slow the cooling. I use sand to cover the weld... but that is not going to work. You might want to have it running before... get the block per-heated, and start it back up after... Just a thought. Other thoughts Grind out the crack. A "V" will hold a weld better than running a bead on a flat. Weld in inches not feet, short welds are better. Clean the weld between welds... If you live close I have some nickel rods. I am STL area.
Put a little zookie on it....
When I was a teenager I was given a Case VAC. The rear hyd housing had filled with water, frozen and cracked. My next door neighbor, a mile away, worked at a fab - machine shop. I still consider him a masters master. He said he wished he had the opportunity to learn under a great blacksmith. He showed me how to vee it out and weld a half inch at a time. Then tap on it with a slag hammer for at least five minutes. Come back tomorrow. That would be when he was back from work probably not the required time interval. I got in a hurry at the end and welded about an inch and a half. It popped and I had a new crack equal to the first. He taught me more and I have picked up from others along the way. I have welded cast parts on top of an oil drain pan, cut off 55 gallon drum, with a screen over it. Put a big bag a charcoal in it first and get parts up to about 400 degrees first. You can weld a lot more at a time that way. Leave the part there to cool with the coals. Some folks make a sand pit. Through the hot part in it and cover it with sand. Leave it until tomorrow. I welded a new starter ear on a 6.2 diesel. Actually a piece of square key stock cut to fit. Man had overhauled the engine and had it out of time. It broke one ear off the block and the starter noise in half. He had pulled the engine back out. It was fully assembled and we set up a torpedo heater blowing on it. Then welded a little at a time. Drilled out and threaded a new hole. An air needle scaler works better than a slag hammer. Have been told and or read that nickle alone is not great in high stress jobs. Stainless can also weld cast but has its own evils. I welded the center section of a JD tractor axle with nickle, rosebud around, stainless, repeat, repeat, repeat. That also worked OK. Traveling salesman came by once making great claims. I went and got some cast parts for a grain drill. He claimed it would work and we went on it. Hot heavy and no stops. Maybe 3 or 4 inches each weld. I bought a box of that high priced stuff. Probably the same stuff Nige posted for only twice the price. I thank I still have the box in my tool box. If I had a special job I would buy it again. Mathew: Now through that block in the scrap and spend $1300. It is not worth investing all that time and money in a block with a high risk repair.
Old Lincoln welder I did was not that long. Veed and spot welded it over time. Had some small leaks. Ground the welds and brazed the leakers a little at a time as well. That did not look so great but it ran for years. I saw another man weld a Cummins. He veed the crack. Nickle rod in short bursts over time. Ground it flat and painted it. Threw sand on it and touched up the paint over time. Looked great and no leaks.