Hey guys I’m looking for a shop or someone who is in north NJ that has experience in working on these engines 4024t fuel systems
What makes you say the rack is broke? Did you remove the valve cover and look at the rack? Did you remove the cover off the front of the timing cover under the shutoff solenoid and look in there? Check rack travel with the fuel solenoid on (21.5 - 21.75 mm travel)? I'm just curious . Unfortunately I do not know of anyone in the Garden State that is really good with them. Maybe the dealer has a tech that specializes in those puppies.
I changed the shut off solenoid, the lift pump on the side of the engine and changed the check valve on the return line primed the hell out of the fuel system and still not getting any fuel/smoke I had a mechanic look at it he said there has to be something wrong with the rack but He doesn’t have much experience with these engines
Also I’d be willing to trailer it if it’s within a reasonable distance the dealer is just outrageous and would rather take it there as a last resort
How about you tell us what the engine/machine is doing so we can help you maybe eliminate other causes before you start getting that deep? JMHO Model and serial of machine would help!
The serial #T0322TA123215 Model ct322 Year 2006 I bought the machine not running was told it stalled out one day they had their mechanic look at it and he said it needs a fuel injection pump so I got it changed the lift pump figuring it was that and the check valve on the return line the fuel shut off solenoid and still no luck doesn’t smoke like it’s not getting fuel the machine has these codes displayed when I checked it f9p8 F9h8 F974 F965
I'm assuming this is a hi pressure inj. system..?? {injectors under the valve cover} Remove the shut off solenoid & reach in & see/feel if the rack will move.. {in & out} easiest test you'll ever make..
Yupp high pressure inj. under the valve cover I can move the rack in and out
If you are getting a good supply of fuel (did anyone actually measure the fuel pressure?) and no smoke when cranking are you sure the fuel shutoff solenoid is staying on when you are cranking? You might here it clack into place when keying on but it might be shutting off while cranking and you wouldn't hear it. Check the P04 wire at the key switch to make sure it is completely engaged and making a solid connection. Also if your cranking voltage drops too low the EMU (monitor) will power down and shut off the fuel solenoid. If you have the fuel shutoff out and the little cover off the front right now then you can use a cut off steel ruler to measure the rack travel. Like I mentioned in post #2 you want to see 21.5 - 21.75 mm of travel. If you do not have that then the rack magnet might of fallen out of place keeping the rack from moving far enough to allow starting. If you do not have that travel you can temporarily loosen the jam nut and back the screw out until it stops (it won't come out), then try starting it again. Depending on how far the magnet displaced it may or may not start trying this, but worth a try. If you are getting a good supply of fuel to the engine you can use a pair of hose pinching pliers to pinch off the fuel return line (won't hurt anything on that engine). Then crank the engine to see if it wants to start. If it starts then release the pliers right away. I would not worry about the codes right now. They won't affect start up. F9P8 - Park Brake Output open/shorted to power F9H8 - Hydraulic Output open or shorted to power F974 - Alternator Output out of range high F965 - Fuel Level sensor input high
The rack moves back and forth the red part in the picture seems to move freely is that suppose to ? Also I don’t see a jam nut to loosen
With that cover off measure the full travel distance of the rack.
Correction to above. The screw mentioned is attached magnetically, not physically. Looking again at that picture does that engine have a new timing gear cover on it?
No I just cleaned it off really good haha so when the fuel shut off solenoid is lifted up I can push the rack in only 9.525mms
I don’t see the jam nut also?
If you only have 9.5mm of rack travel I suspect the magnet is dislodged. Try loosening the jam nut and backing the screw out and see if you can get more rack travel. See if it will start to smoke when cranking or even start after backing it out.
Just curious as I have a couple of these engines. What purpose does the magnet serve ?
Sitting between the end of the magnet screw and the lever arm assembly is the load spring (which is actually over top of the magnet). The magnet holds the lever arm assembly towards the timing cover during start up so the rack can move to full fuel position to aid in cold start up. Once the engine starts and the governor flyweights take over the lever arm then moved in and out by the flyweights.
Fantastic write-up MG.!!! How does a magnet become dis-lodged ?? is it supposed to be glued in ? is it a press fit ? I've never had the pleasure of pulling a cover off that engine..
It is glued into a cup on the end of the screw. I guess the glue either breaks down or insufficient glue was applied to begin with. Then when the arm is held back then releases after start up the arm pulls the magnet out but it does not fall completely out because it is captured by the spring so it wedges between the cup and the arm holding the arm against the rack so the rack is held in the no or near no fuel position.
Thanks Man.. the same usta happen on the early Bosch pumps.. nothing a dab of Super Glue wouldnt fix tho.. Luckily it could be diagnosed & fixed from the outside w/o going into the pump. THAT looks like a real pita to diagnose & fix, if u dont know what ur looking for.?? Thanks for the info.. 1 more question>> does the cover HAVE TO BE taken apart to fix ?? {remove the throttle lever & fulcrum lever} or is there a "field fix" as we like to call it..?
Thank you for the picture and working description.
Yep. You are welcome.
So just to beat a dead horse{lol} When the magnet comes loose from its hole, it just sticks to the fulcrum lever {back side?} & probably slides down to never re-seat on its own..?? Do I have that right.? Sorry for all the questions but inquiring minds wanna know & u have the answers.. & do u have to buy a complete lever assembly or can u re-glue the magnet.?? Thanks so much for your time explaining this.
Correct. You buy the screw with the magnet in it ($41)(see below). They have improved the gluing process.
So I loosened the jam nut and backed the screw off it smokes but won’t start dose this mean I have to take the timing cover off and replace that screw before I can get it to start?
Sounds like it. That would require engine removal. Can't take that cover off in place. The oil pump is inside that cover so the pickup tube is bolted to the bottom of the cover and also bolted to the block which requires pan removal to access the hardware.
I'm curious, did you check rack travel again after backing the screw out to see what you have?
Yupp I have about 19mm of travel
Definitely looks like a timing cover removal job.
Now after I remove the timing cover and put it back together i would have to just reset that jam nut and screw so the rack has 21.5-21.7 movement ? Then it should be ok if everything else is fine with it?
No. Look at my picture in post 17. When the fuel shutoff solenoid is on and the rack is all the way out you adjust the screw so there is 1mm of clearance between the roller and the rack. With 1mm of clearance that insures the rack has a full 21.5mm of travel.