I have a Ctl 70 that has been a great trouble free machine. I brought it home last month from the farm and Parker it in the barn lot where it sat until this week. I went to start it and when I clicked the key I found no console lights no indication of power anywhere. I charged it overnight thinking it was a low battery. I also cleaned all the battery connections even the 3 wires bolted down to the power cable still nothing. I connected jump cables to it and with the engine running on the truck I could faintly see the top 2 console lights were on. No power to start. So I thought battery may be bad pulled it and a test at the local parts place showed it was good but the counter guy said it barely tested good and was very low on charge. I took it home and charged it out of the machine. In about 28 hours it never showed full charge however did get down to 2 charging amps on a automatic charger. I put it back in and back to the original problem. I verified 12 volts from the cable terminals to the body/frame showed 11.9v still nothing when switch is clicked on but the fuel gauge is working now. It's possible it worked before. It is slow and I don't think I had the key on long before. This time I left the key on and jiggled the cables and wires to no success. I am tempted to put a new battery in it but at 120.00 I would like to be sure that's what it needs. Any ideas?
If anyone is reading, fuses all good including the 3 buss fuses above the battery. Put a new battery in. Next is getting the console apart and getting to the switch.
Sounds like you may have a poor ground....
Yep, that's possible, measure voltage from the negative terminal to a shiny spot on the body someplace with the key on. Do you have working headlights or anything like that? any voltage in the cigar lighter? its also possible that there's a power relay for the body that's toasted or corroded. Keep the battery on a small charger as you work and test, it might help it recover some of its steam.
Check the voltage at the positive and negative posts on the starter. Should have 12 volts all the time. Also check voltage at fuses with the key on.
Thanks for the replies. All efforts to prove a bad ground have failed so far. I will check power at starter. No working headlights, and no bump I usually hear when turning key on and off. I suspect some kind of relay or similar. I checked all fuses today but diddnt check the power in the fuse box. Worst part of this machine here is nobody knows anything about them. I tried to get to the key switch but couldn't figure out how to get the cover off.
Looking at your battery cables, do they look fine? I have seen a few cases, good looking terminals but the cable was broke/corroded clean through a few inches away from an end, give the cables a good pull and twist, they should feel solid and not behave oddly as to how they bend and flex. Its not an old machine right? I'd almost wonder if a mouse ate through some wire that engages the main relay while it was sitting.
Looking at the wires everything looks tight in good shape, no crusty appearance or corrosion coming out of the connections. There was some corrosion on the blades of some of the fuses. I cleaned all of them and the connection as best I could. I am trying now to get to the connections for the key switch. Need to confirm power into the switch because their dosent seem to be power out.
Oh and no it's not old, I haven't seen any signs of mice or chewing. I do have one spot where the Harness is rubbing and fraying the tape, but nothing has worn through to wires.
Can you post a picture of the console the key switch is in?
Yes let me figure out how
Sounds good if it's the one I'm thinking it is you have to pull the boot around the joystick off then remove the front two bolts with hex heads and pull the monitor out forward then you can. Lift the cover
If it's the one I'm thinking of you have to pull up the joystick boot and remove the front 2 bolts that hold both the joystick down and the monitor in place. Remove these the 4 Phillips screws and the other large Allen head bolt holding the monitor in and you should be able to pull up the console
Regarding corroded fuses, there was a batch of fuses from China that the blades were aluminum. I had a fuse block on the Deere where the glow plug circuit stopped working the fuse tested fine from the top but pulling it out, it was all nasty and had eaten the terminal off of the fuse block. ended up changing the whole block. I switched to all buss brand fuses still tinned brass
Mullermarine that is exactly how this is set up to remove the gauge cluster. Where do you disconnect the wires to remove the cover. I have been told not to remove them from the circuit board that the harness unplugs but I can't find that connection or the connection for the switch.
The harness should have a connector in it or at the back of the monitor. It's one big square plug
Ok what I found the other day was several ribbon looking plugs and a couple jumper looking connectors on the board end. It all looked really fragile to my big mitts!
You dont have to split the casing around the monitor
Anyone know where I can get a wiring diagram. The dealer only has the one in the parts manual and it is not much help.
I can get you one on Monday. Give me your SN: and I can grab it
Thanks will get it tomorrow when I am at the shop!
The sn is 21403405 thanks
Miller marine, did you have any luck? Thanks again.
Found today I only have1.5- 2 v in the fuse box. Trying to determine if I have 12 v into the switch.
Sorry for the lack of reply I was out of the country for the last week and a half. I'll grab the schematic tomorrow for you.
Thanks!
Follow the link to a Takeuchi TL140 manual. It's the exact same machine. I just put the entire service manual up. Let me know if this helps. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3atP4ZPCabnZlR5S2tUUUdBcWM/view?usp=drivesdk
Thanks!!
Had time last night. Started pulling apart the coverings to get to the wiring. According to the wiring diagram, everything in the fuse box but the horn is switched power. hopefully Friday I can get the covers off and test the power going into the switch. If it's 12 volts I will order a new switch.
Ok, couldn't seem to get the console unplugged but was able to lift it high enough to get the keys switch out. It tested odd. With the key off one terminal has 11 volts of power. When I turn the key on all power goes away. What I thought was the hot lead goes to 0v. Assuming it's shorting to ground inside the switch.
So it sounds like there's an almost broken connection someplace along the line. Hows the voltage at the battery with the key on? start there and work your way up along the power bus. Should be a larger gauge wire feeding the panel, perhaps a fuse is cracked. Also, with the wiring diagram, find all your grounds and give them a cleaning if they look/feel dodgy
Did that as best we could, switch on or off dosent effect anything at the battery. We had 11 v at the ign switch, but only 1.5-2 at the fuse block. I picked up a new switch today.
Found it, hot wire corroded in two at the connector between the switch and fuse block.
Excellent, good find!
Thanks for the help everyone.