Hi would anybody have any info on the Cummins390 engine in my case 580k. Where would i get some info in it, think mine is locked up , would it be a big task to remove the engine from it or where would i start , bit new to this back hoe, but im up for the challenge , any help would be appreciate very much
I can't help you much with how much work it is to replace. But are you sure the engine is locked up? What have you tried so far? Edit: OK, went back and read your post about draining water out of the oil pan. Not a good sign, but what do you have to lose by digging a little bit. Assuming it ran when parked, we'll discount the possibility that the pump or drivetrain is putting a load on the engine. Take the starter out and try to pry the flywheel back and forth with a screwdriver. If that fails you have nothing to lose by removing the head to investigate. What's your plan? used or rebuilt engine? rebuild this one? What kind of facilities do you have available? OEM only or as cheap as you can get away with?
You may already know how to access the online parts book. If not here is the link to it. http://partstore.casece.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr54945ag42675
Thanks tinkerer Welk the reason it stopped when parked was the water pump webt on it, so it was replaced. Took off the starter and got it reconditioned , tried to move the flywheel but would only slightly move up and down hard to get leverage at it,. a guy near me told me take out the injectors and any water on top of pistons would come out , didn't get to try it out yet.
Maybe I missed it but when you say there is water in the cylinders do you mean engine coolant or water from some other source like rain? Either way I would not let it set for even a few hours much less several days.
It's been sitting for 5 years and he drained several quarts of water out of the oil. Suspected rainwater. From his other thread. When it moves "slightly" that could be just the crankshaft moving, or it could be the pistons moving just a little before hitting water, or rust. There's a big difference, but taking the injectors out to let any water escape, and add penetrating oil is a good next step. Unless you have the new engine lined up already?
If you have water on top of the piston,you really should pull the head and then maybe try to free up the motor with pen oil and a block of wood and hammer. A ball hone to the cylinders will help alot also to free up the pistons. If it frees up you will have blowby when it runs, how much depends on the cylinder condition. If this is a farmer special, then some blowby and oil use won't be a problem, if this is a money maker, a bore job and a crank grind are in order.
Assuming the 580k and 580l are very much alike which I believe they are it's in my opinion simpler to do a motor transplant vs working on the existing motor. I just swapped out motors in my 580 yesterday it was a simple process. Let me know if I can be of assistance.
I believe they are the same in the E series also. I have rebuilt several of these motors and really ,they are easy to repair!
Thanks guys il pull the injectors next and see if I can pump some if the water out if any is there , hopefully I can get this engine moving a bit more
5 years with water in it! I say bit the bullet, pull head, and have at it. If it was just up the street I offer to help just for the fun! If someone wants to pay air fair I'll be at the airport in the morning! Sounds like the Perkins powered genset I had to revive a couple years ago! That one I had to pull head and use an air hammer on the pistons to get them to move enough to disassemble it. Head to machine shop along with the block to have new sleeves installed and finish bored. Polish crank some new bearings clean everything reassemble and to my surprise it actually ran again. Oh forgot talked them into new injectors, pump not touched. So I think this one can be saved too, just a shame when an engine is let go like these two. Don't know the full story on the Cummins but the Perkins I did was plane and simple lazy people who did not care to properly store an engine, same people "took care" of a 3-53 Detroit gen set, similar repairs needed. But hey if people did take care of stuff there would be less work for guys like me!
hi lads so i went got a chance to get to the backhoe this evening and tryed to pull the injectors, got them opened but will not come up from the head , there real tight , whats the right way to get them out . have some pictures too to put up but dont know how thanks guys
This link is to everything you need to know in regards to posting pictures.
I used an old injector line and cut it. Removed the nut and fitted it onto a bolt head for my slide hammer. Screw the abandoned nut onto the injector. Attach slide hammer and give 2 or 3 good wacks. They pop right out. Hope that helps.
I use the same thing as wrc with the injector line nut welded to a nut to fit the slide hammer, couple taps and most of the time there out.