I just cant get this thing running right so i can move on to other fixes Id like to work on. Hyundai R130 LC3 is over heating. I just did the head gasket with new coolant and temperature sensor. Wondering if maybe i have air in the system. Was running a little yesterday and the machine idled down on its own. Temp on panel was not in the red, so 1 thing Im wondering is if my sensor is bad. I put a new thermostat in and the same issue popped up. I opened the hood and noticed the upper radiator hose was swollen about twice its size. Im going to try an bleed the coolant system and get some temps. Not sure what else to look at.
sounds like it is building pressure crank it up cold and quickly remove radiator cap and see if you have pressure. also get a temperature gun and shoot the top and bottom hoses and see what you have. A clogged radiator could also cause pressure to build on top hose as the coolant returns from the top hose
All the shrouds and foam seals in place around the coolers? If it can pull air from somewhere easier than through the coolers it will.
Yup, all the foam and shrouds are in place. Foam looks to be in good shape. Started it and pulled off the cap, there wasnt any pressure build up. Also didnt see any coolant flow. Wasnt sure if it needs to be up to operating temp for that. Im going to run it a little and take some hose temps.
Ran it for about 30 min with the cap off. Never really saw any flow. Both top and bottom hose at 181
Ran this morning and top hose has a pin hole. Guess its time to flush the radiator.
Got a new hose and flushed the radiator with clean water...water and radiator flush mix...and finally filled with new coolant. Thought everything was running good. Temps climbed slowly after running for about an hour. Gage climbed to about E/F and then I got a over heat alarm and the machine throttled down on its own. Temps of hoses were ~190 and ~200. The temp sensor was replaced when i did the head gasket due to a broken wire connector (wish i saved it). Im wondering if the sensor is not correct. The overheat sensor is original. Sensor shouldnt have anything to do with coolant flow, but just another issue to look at.
Does the machine have an oil/water cooler. I have seen coolers obstructed in the past.
Oh dear, bubbles no good. Can you elaborate on this picture, Did you get the head machined?
Engine is a 4BTA, after cooler and yes oil cooler. I replaced the oil cooler during the head gasket job. I checked the head and came to the conclusion that it was within specs. Checked with flat edge and feeler gages. Used OEM gasket but did not machine the head. Thermostat was replaced with non-OEM. The photo is from running with the cover removed to verify water flow. I also have a video if I can post that.
I did an exhaust gas check on the radiator and came back negative. Thought maybe the test fluid was old, but tested fine when testing right at the exhaust. I did notice that after 5-6 squeezes of the bulb, it wouldn't pull any more gas into the tester. Not sure if i should just pull the head again!
Sounds like the water pump is shot or the belt is on wrong, radiator blocked up or thermostat is in back to front. If theres no exhaust gas in the cooling system, no leaks and the fan is operating properly theres not much else to hunt down.
Not that it matters for overheating, but what coolant is that? Looks like tan or brownish green on my screen. Can't think of any ELC that have that color.
Green coolant, probably bad picture. Im gonna pull the t-stat and run it, then check pump.
Have you checked your fan speed vs the crankshaft speed? Also some of the water pumps had a hood attached to impellers and would come off not allowing flow so you might want to check water pump. Purge your air from cooling system either by removing plug from head by temp sensor or using vacuum system. Even though you flushed the cooling system with chemical flush you may need to remove the radiator and have cleaned.
Its been way too hot up here in NH to work on the machine but I got out last night and pulled the t-stat out. My thought was that I had the t-stat in backwards and I wanted to verify the pump was working. I figured Id see the fluid moving in the radiator as soon as i started it. NOPE. no coolant flow and now im not sure if thats because there was no t-stat in the engine. I had to use the machine for about 30 min last week, not enough to get it up to the upper temperatures. I did notice that when i went to pull the t-stat, the radiator was low (panic set it that the coolant was in the oil). I checked the oil level and no change. Checked the overflow tank and it was almost full. So, question remains. Should i see coolant flow on engine start up without a t-stat?
Yes you should see flow without thermostat
Just pulled the pump. Was hoping to see broken plastic fins. Nope! Metal fins, all in perfect shape. Also spins freely. Not sure where to go now!
Garden hose sealed to and flowing in lower hose with thermostat removed. Should come pouring out the upper hose. That way you have verified water flow thru engine. Same thing, garden hose sealed into upper tank, should come pouring out lower. Careful you do not over pressure radiator top with 50 psi hose if clogged. Should flow freely right through. Hopefully these two tests can tell the story.
Post #49 of this thread might be useful -- pertains to being sure your radiator is clean and passing air freely: HeavyEquipmentForums
Dont think i can get the bottom hose off without cutting it. I got a hose connected to the heater core outlet on the engine. Water eventually comes out of the radiator drain. Going to clean the fins next.
You said "flushed the radiator with clean water...water and radiator flush mix...and finally filled with new coolant. " You didn't fill it with straight coolant did you ? Joe H
According to directions of the flush material, said to drain coolant. Fill with water and run for 10 min. Drain and fill with water and flush mix and run for 10 min. Finally fill with coolant. I used a 50/50 premix green coolant.
Got it. Pure coolant will cause overheating. Joe H
Without a thermostat installed you should see water returning to the top tank like a fire hose. If it's not you need to find out exactly why. Cut the blasted lower hose if you have to. Zero in on what the problem actually IS. The fins clean or dirty do not matter to the amount of coolant flow. Dig in and get dirty.
Hahaaaaa, im working on it, i havent given up. I was hoping that putting water through the heater core hose at the top of the engine would do the same thing since it comes out the lower hose and into the radiator to the drain.
Not really. Think of the engine as a big tank and the radiator as a big tank. Connected to each other by 2 large hoses top and bottom. The heater hoses are like some small hoses in a loop connected off the middle of the "engine large tank". Putting water in does not tell you much but it could tell you something but IDK what.
What's the delta, 5x5. Does it have a good SPCA reading. * With or without a thermostat with cap removed running at 2,000 rpm you should see circulation in the top tank. Not to mention top hose will turn hot instantly as stat goes full open.
Worked a little on it today. Decided to fill with water and see what happens. If the radiator was just filled over the fins you could see the fluid flow. Not extremely vigorous flow but flow nonetheless. I need to replace the crank shaft seal so i started pulling stuff apart. Looks like I can remove the inlet flange rather than trying to get the hose off of it. Gonna try that tomorrow I think. I also cleaned the radiator. Well worked on cleaning. The hydraulic radiator is pretty clean, but the engine radiator is so clogged that i cant even push water through the fins!
that will do it
I think you may have just found your issue.
That is a twice a year maintenance issue.
It was amazing how much dirt and gunk came out of my radiator fins...early summer the temps got up to about 9 out of 10 on my CAT 320C. After the radiator clean it has not gone above 8 on even the hottest days.
Just ran for about 30 min, need to refuel. Temps never got higher than 140!
Sounds like you need to put the thermostat back
I finally found this picture...this is what bubbled out of the radiator when I first started cleaning the fins. This is the "swingout" radiator...is it the condenser coolant system for the AC?
T-stat is in. I didny have the hood on, so that may have kept temp down. Trying to get my tach sensor working and I cant get to it with the hood.
That is an AC condenser. Now you know, you need to wash out the rads at a certain interval. Don't blast with water to damage any fins. You will never get them all the way clean. But 80% of the dirt gone is better than plugged all the way.
Well that seems to have done the trick. Ran it a couple times over the past few days and no overheating! FINALLY. However, my crank shaft seal is still leaking. Its the 3rd one ive put on and used the wear sleeve. I think Ill just have to live with it. Its a farm machine and doesnt get used daily! As a bonus I found out my throttle rod was loose and that was why the machine "felt" down on power. It wasnt reaching correct RPMs.
Did you use the seal installation tool, a ring with a lip on it? If it’s not aligned precisely with this it will leak. While your getting down and dirty check the engine mounts, 4bt’s aren’t exactly the smoothest running engine and chances are they could have rattled loose over time.
Yup used the tool, cleaned the shaft surface and made sure not to touch either surface while putting on the cover.