i have been it the machine repair field for 30 pus years and i never used propane for the cutting gas on a torch system as the companies always had acyetlene. and i have a set of torches and the same thing for me, i used acyetlene. but now being retired i find the gas has got way out of my price range, so i figure for what i use the set for propane would be a good feul gas for heating and i'm guessing i could cut with it as well. i asked the local college that i got my certificate at and that instructor will not tell me the adapter i need to get the acetylene regulator and propane tank connected up with. i did a lot i research but still can't find out if there is one. even ebay. i have yet to stop into the tank supply place yet so if i do not find an answer here i may have to drive 30 miles to find out. when i worked i got my tanks replaced form the same place the shop did so they delivered them to the shop and i took them home. did not have to drive 30 miles. anyway i figure a tone of guys on this site have this same setup and may tell me the kind of adapter i need to connect the gauge to the tank. i may be that i'm just do not know the exact name to ask for. thanks
I use both propane and acetylene. Regulator is the same for either gas. You just need a different tip for the torch head. Both tanks use left hand thread internal threading.
What crane operator said...... Unless you are wanting to use the new style ' grill bottles'..... Then i'm guessing you will have to fabricate some sort of a fitting for those tanks.
"Fabricate some sort of a fitting".? On a fuel gas setup.? What could possibly go wrong.? You can use the same regulator for acetylene & propane provided that you don't go over 15psi outlet pressure. If you need more than that a regulator change will be necessary.
Regulator is same even most 20 lbs tanks still have internal threads, Tips are different but have used an acetylene tip on propane many times just not as satisfactory, hoses are different for propane "T grade" but nobody bothers with them might as well get the right ones if you need new hoses Acetylene price is very high but a tank goes a long ways until someone forgets the valve on at least (;
I used propane about 50 years ago. If I remember correctly the propane set-up used way more oxygen. I also seem to remember the acetylene set-up was a lot hotter to.
My uncle had a propane torch set years back, but I don't know much about it. I had looked into going propane years ago, but ended up with a small O/A, highly portable torch set that suited my needs. Looking around, Harris Products Group calls themselves the experts on using alternative fuels for torch applications. https://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/ They have a nice video series comparing the differences between alternative fuel and acetylene, and how the alternative fuel torch can be cost competitive and just as effective as acetylene. Type in a YouTube search for Harris Injector Torch. One point that is mentioned in one of their videos is that the regulators and hoses are different for propane. Not sure why though.
Don't forget about need a different hose for propane, I think its type T Had to buy it to use a rose bud torch
You will deffinatly go thru alot of oxygen even using propane tips. About 18 full bottles to one 20lb propane tank, at least that is what my neighbors miileage was .he had an adaptor that is or was availble thru air gas pur acty regulator was for male outside thread
If you are just heating things check out turbo torch, think small weed burner with different size tips. If you are used to burning with acetylene you won't be happy with propane . Don't try the new style propane bottles with the outside threads ,they have a safety flow valve that wont let you use munch gas . Your regulator should screw into a propane bottle but like others have said be ready to drive 30 miles for oxygen more often. Good luck Bob
So why can't you use a acetylene regulator over 15 lbs. for propane? Bob
I did a little looking, and if you have grill bottles that only have a external thread, I think something like this should get you running. Looks like it has a set of internal threads on the opposite end of the grill bottle type fitting. I have both propane and aceylene, and the propane does heat up much slower. I can't say that I've noticed a increase in O2 usage, but I don't do a lot of cutting. I simply use the propane because I have a 1000 gal tank at the shop and sometimes when I'm working, the welding gas supplier isn't open, and its easier to just fill up my own tank. https://www.amazon.com/GASPRO-Indic...ZAFF1BSF8EF&psc=1&refRID=DGRC4H4KKZAFF1BSF8EF
I also did look at the grill bottle at home, and it has both external and internal threads. I don't know that I've seen a tank with only the external big threads.
I worked in the propane industry and never seen a cylinder with external threads only. They always have internal because too much old stuff out there, has to be compatible. The small cylinders valves have a restrictor but not that restrictive, should be plenty to run a torch, I run big generator engines off them all the time for short periods. They don't have a snap-shut device, if that exists it is contained in the male part that fits into the cylinder valve and goes to the regulator. I have tried propane on a regular cutting torch and it was not very satisfactory but I did not pursue it any further.
Same thread for propane as acetylene. They make propane specific regulators but an acetylene regulator will work fine. For cutting need to use propane tips and propane rosebuds for heating. You can't weld with propane though, only braze. The gauge for acetylene is red at 15 PSI but no problem to go to 20 or 25 PSI when using propane. Propane has an advantage when using a rosebud because you don't have to worry about withdrawal rates. In fact you can run a bigger propane rosebud. You will go through about 3 times more oxygen using propane. Grade T hose is recommended for propane as it won't degrade over time but isn't as flexible as Grade R hose.
I'm one of the few that actually prefer using propane, it has a cleaner cut as the steel is actually burned and not blown in two. Using propane will force you to use proper cutting technique and not sloppy half measures. The hottest part of the flame isn't the little cones like acetylene, but farther out. A good clean tip is also a plus, but that's the same either way. As an aside, I started using the American Torch Tips adapter system and it is great, I can swap to a 0 or a 1 or 2 in seconds or a rosebud just as fast. Buy the adapter once and then just the tips, nice system.
The technical term for oxy/fuel cutting is rapid oxidation. Proper tip and technique produces a clean cut no matter what fuel gas you use. I prefer acetylene and will sometimes use 1 size smaller tip for a more precision cut and narrower curve but have to go a little slower and sometimes preheat the line of cut. For straight line cutting with acetylene you position a preheat flame directly in front and behind the line of cut. For shape cutting the preheat staggers the line of cut.
I have used propane for over 25 years . It dosent heat as fast i realy cant tell if i use alot more oxygen it must not be realy that bad. One thing that is great about the propane tips is the way they come apart to clean. When i wanted to start useing propane i went to the closes place to get a tip he tryed to order one and after several weeks he couldnt find one but he had a tip that would work in my torch but he didnt know what it was for but it looked like a propane tip. I had a grain bin to cut up so i tryed it . I couldnt get it lit unless i started a paper tale on fire but it would cut but not real good. Later on i was in Kc Mo and found a torch repair place . I ask about a tip and showed him what i had. He ask me were i got the tip like i had done something wrong then he ask how did i get it lit.I ask him what it was he said it was a Natural gas Oxy tip and it took a electric spark to lit it.
Acetylene over 15 PSI is dangerous, in the tank it is disolved in acetone to keep it from blowing up, don't use acetylene over 15PSI. Propane is obviously fine over 15 PSI.
Like most guys I started out with acetylene and never wanted to go to propane. But then someone who knew how to use it showed me a few things and I'll likely never go back. For everything I need, propane is just so much more convenient. And if you write "for welding only" on your tank you don't have to go to the new style tanks and should not have any problem getting the old style filled.
Done both and currently have Oxy Acetylene set up. Used Propane on scrapping as could get larger volumes of cheaper gas, not looked back since those days as still gas weld as well as braze and exactly correct No cannot weld with propane, not hot enough with oxidation rate is also too fast.
You probably use more oxygen like others say but you kinda learn to start the cut on a thinner edge or away on a thinner part of what you are cutting. Of course that is not always possible. I use a 100 lb bottle it is so cheap to fill which offsets the more oxygen use. They fill my bottle when they fill my big tank.
I use acetylene for all my hand cutting . On my my burning table i run propane for the machine torches ,its especially good on thick plate . For heating a proane oxy. rosebud is the best ,it wont back fire and go out just as you are reaching temperature like an acetylene rosebud does.
I have a propane torch setup at the house that runs off a 20 pound tank with no problems. Internal threads are on new tanks as well. my oxygen consumption is not crazy by any means. I do like the convenience of propane for after hours use because I always have multiple tanks around. My gas regulator is an old Craftsman that my Dad used and it works with no issue.
If your rosebud is clean the 2 most common reasons for backfire are the tip getting too hot from being held to close or the most common reason is not using enough acetylene pressure and to a lesser extent oxygen pressure. A large acetylene rosebud should be run at 14/15 PSI and oxygen at around 30-35 PSI. Also the flame shouldn't be throttled back too much. The higher pressures and higher flow rates help to cool the tip.
Had a job a little too big for my small 'B' sized portable torch kit. I was going to borrow my Dad's torch set that he hasn't used in 20 years to find that his tanks are empty (and expired) Go to gas supplier, he says oxygen tank is no good (visible pitting on outside of tank). I ended up buying a tank of oxygen from him and then a propane cutting tip to fit my torch. Came home, assembled everything, and couldn't make it work. Sat down, Googled and YouTube'd some oxy-propane cutting information and 5 minutes later I'm slicing 1" plate like a knife through hot butter. It took me a bit to get the flame right and then figure out the best technique, but overall I'm happy with the setup. I'll probably buy a couple more tips in different sizes to keep in my toolbox for different applications. He sold me a size 3 today for my torch.
Used LP scrapping in KS in 76/77, THOUGHT was cheaper, was in reality not. Use more LP to Acetylene volume, takes a bigger tank to run longer and torch(Airco Cutmaster) had to be modded to cut heavier steel. Long story short we spent near as much on LP as would have on Acetylene. Also cannot weld with LP, does not WILL not reduction flame clean the weld joint, won't therefore stick.
Somebody is getting pipeliner skills. Now all you need is a 200 redface lincoln, a 50lb can of 7018, and a 1 ton dodge with a custom flatbed.
I use a standard Victor Journeyman torch and regulators and standard hose, all I changed was the tip. I've heard that propane needs special hose but have never seen or heard of anyone having a problem with using standard hose. When you go to the welding supply store and check the price on a bottle of acetylene and then see what propane costs you will find that propane is significantly cheaper. The biggest problem with acetylene prices is that it is now considered a hazardous chemical and they are shutting down alot of plants. I live on the west coast and as far as I know there are no longer any plants left on the west coast. Everything in our area comes from Canada. Yes, you can not weld with propane but how often is gas welding really used anymore? I also find that propane makes a lot cleaner cut with less slag and when using a rosebud you don't have the popping back you get with acetylene, burns alot cleaner.
Did like that aspect as to LP, we did buy the correct hose and regulators bak in my past, we used House size bottles sitting on a straight truck(250gal) for scrapper work.
I use propane on my burning table.It works much better on thick plate , somtimes im burning 3 or 4 inch plate. And it works excellent for heating with the propane rosebud ,no backfire just as your getting your pin bore warm enough for the next move. But for hand cutting id stay with acetylene you burn less oxygen and get much better starts when your cutting rusty old stuff,try either gas on on a rusty piece of 2 inch round bar and you will see. All that said i just bought a Hypotherm xp 45 plasma cutter that works slick on up to 1/2" it says thicker but... Im using it more around the shop than the cutting torch.
Seems like since Airgas bought both local suppliers prices went up & up & up. Or is it my imagination? Joe H
Supplier I have price also on the rise.
@crane operator A bit off topic but are you filling your propane tanks off your large tank yourself? How much trouble is that? I just have a standard 500 gallon home tank but I run a propane heater out in the garage when it's cold. I'd love to take advantage of just filling tanks from the home tank, but upon looking up how that process goes I was a bit intimidated and certainly didn't want to screw anything up...
It's common in farming, you'll need the right hose and fittings, and a liquid withdrawal valve. I think it's on most tanks already, could be wrong. Look up filling LP tractors for better info. Or use a 100# tank and tip it upside down. Or hook up a small one direct and hope the vapor condenses over time? I've never tried it, but I bet it would work slowly.
Most tanks dont have a wet leg if they do you can fill a small tank but it will not get as full as if it was pumped in. Most dealers dont like this so you will need to find one that will go along with what you want to do.
BBQ style tanks don't have a vent to tell when they're full like a vehicle (liquid withdrawal) tank either. You would need a scale to weigh it so you don't fill past 80%.
They do now at least around here. Its a small strait headed screw on the side of the valve hocked to a small tube that runs down into the tank. From what i have been told by guys that do it you cant get a small tank full doing it this way.
I bought a Cobra torch 3 years ago so far i dont like it but i havent got to mess with it much because of setting it up and taking it off my torch set up so i hunted up one regulater and bought another at a pawn shop. I now have the cobra/Dalton set up on its own bottles acetylene and oxy.
If your propane tank has a wet leg (liquid withdraw) valve its easy to fill tanks. Your supplier may be able to install one if it doesn't and the tank is empty. I fill both 100# bottles and forklift tanks from my tank. My supplier is a local coop with older drivers that have been in the business for decades. They supplied me all the parts I needed. I have one hose to fill the 100# bottles, and an adapter to fill the forklift tanks. Forklift tanks fill fast if they are used until the forklift dies. Topping one off is slow. Filling tanks is all about differential pressure. Warm supply tank and cold portable tank fill easy, other way around and it may not fill at all unless you can bleed off pressure from portable tank. Acetylene prices are the best argument I know for buying a Hypertherm plasma.
In my area all BBQ tanks have an OFP (overfill protection device). They work just like a toilet tank valve. I thought that a law was passed banning non conforming tanks. No one will refill one that does not have it. The valves are clearly marked. I don't use 100 lb tanks so I don't know about them.
Maybe the new valves are because the people they hire to fill them couldn't be trusted enough to do it properly.
I've had the guy that fills my home tank, also fill my 100 and 20 pound tanks. Even the 20 he loosens the bleeder since he didn't have a scale on the truck
You never trust a safety device like an OPD, always fill by the outage valve and the OPD is there as a backup in case you start daydreaming
I use a tank exchange service at a local gas station. I haven't had a tank refilled for several years now. But, some of them short you on how much liquid is in the tank. Usually 3 lbs, they post the weight on their exchange stations but no one is likely to read it.
Costco is bad for that. You think you're getting a great deal but your only getting 16lbs. when you should be getting 20lbs. (80% of 80%) and you have to wait in line for 20-30 minutes. The exchange tanks might be the same but the prices are crazy and have read several stories where the tanks are expired and they won't exchange them the next time so you have to buy a new tank. The best deal I found was going to gas station that has a propane filling station where they actually use a scale so you get a full 20lbs. and it was about the same price as buying gas and sold by the litre.
I use one of three places for Gas, LP Supplier for the house will fill our portable bottles at their yard and my LP Truck at the same yard or when deliver gas to the house. There is a supplier in town that will refill up to 100# bottles off a scale and a third across the river at a Farm Service supply store.
I'll have to look a bit further into at-home filling. In the summer I rarely go through any propane and I use charcoal for the grill, otherwise I only use it for weed torching, which is less effective than I'd like. In the winter we can go through a tank per week if I'm doing stuff out in the garage, which I expect I will be more this winter as I'm building my workshop... At 16-20 bucks per tank it seems pricey and I don't like dragging the tanks around for replacement all the time. Thanks for all the input gang!
I have used plasma cutters on the job but i dont have one at home. I would like to have one to see how much i would use it but the cost of the size i need would buy alot of gases.
Been Looking here too, cannot justify that coin either.
Right now I could use a spool gun for aluminum and my Hobart 220 handler. Stainless and aluminum just went bad, so need to cut the stainless out and wled all back up to drill and tap
I had some heavy beams to split down the web into T beams so i bought the plasma. 20 ft lenghts came out dead straight . Thats hard to get right with the torch.
If you don't own your own large tank- you probably won't be able to put a fill valve in it. The propane providers aren't going to install it for you in their tank, without building a whole "fill station". There's probably a book with 200 pages of rules and diagrams on what a "safe" fill station needs to have for dimensions and signage. I own my 1000gal tank at the shop, the propane company kind of fussed about my fill hose, but they can take a flying *(edited for PG rating)* at a rolling doughnut. I have probably 10 or more small tanks at the shop, and I'm not dragging them all the way across town to get them filled. I told the propane company I can call one of the other three propane delivery companies, and see if they want to fill my tank. So they fuss about it, but they fill it. "We're not liable- you should remove your fill line, its not safe etc. etc" The $10/hr. clerk at menards can fill my bottles, surely I can fill my own. I don't scale them when I fill them. I just kind of slosh them around until they feel around 1/2-3/4 full, and go on with life. I grew up working on grain dryers and we were always messing with propane. It not that dangerous provided you aren't smoking while pulling a line apart or something. Wear gloves so you don't freeze to the valves and fittings when releasing. Don't get your face right up in there when you pull it apart. It's not near as nasty to mess with as anhydrous ammonia. All that said, if you really don't know what you're doing, you are better off to have them filled. If you want to learn and mess with it, its not that hard. Find some old farmer to teach you. Speaking of propane, I need to get my tank filled. It seems I've already missed my cheap "summer fill" pricing. And if Old Doug and DMiller will sleep in, when I come across the first plasma cutter that will sever 3/4" for $300 on craigslist in Missouri, I'll have a plasma cutter before them.
Have seen pics. of exploded propane tanks that were over filled and people badly burned from propane at a propane filling course I took years ago. I agree if you don't know what you're doing get them filled at a reputable supplier. What I find amazing not just with propane but all welding gases is that anybody can get them and there's no instructions or safety practices brochures for any of them. About all they tell you is acetylene needs to be kept upright. It's not at all surprising when you hear about balcony fires from leaking propane bbq tanks. Some people shouldn't handle anything more than a butter knife let alone a propane tank. Plasma is nice for thinner metal and to reduce warping but I can cut much nicer with a cutting torch up to 6" if need be. Just change the tip. I just find a cutting torch more suited to using with 2 hands for better control and the narrower tip makes it easier to see where you're cutting. Plasma consumables add up and you also need a decent compressor to run them. If you want to split something like a beam, leave a 3/8-1/2" uncut section every foot or so and it will stop the beam from warping. Then go back and cut out the short sections after it's cooled some.
The few times I wanted to make a really straight cut with my acetylene torch I clamped an angle iron to the piece for a guide. I put the torch right against it.
You can get magnetic cutting guides that work really well too. I have one of these and because it's aluminum the torch slides on it with less friction than steel. They also have extensions that can be bolted on up to 72" long. https://ramweldingsupply.com/p/curv-o-mark-magnetic-burning-guide/
I have split many beams with a torch ,cut 3 ft leave a tab and then go back and cut it all when it cools. But they still arent true and you need to heat shrink them straight. The one i did with the plasma came out dead on. That being said you cant beat the torch for getting into awkward places and general burning. Like all tools they have thier place.I did these compound mitre cuts in 3/8 and 1/2 in hollow structural with the plasma and it worked pretty well.
Is that a Peddinghaus ironworker or Mubea?
Pedinghaus
If you like handy things to cut stuff with you need one of these. Doall tilting head bandsaw, does 14" square @ 45deg.
Thought it was a Peddinghaus. My first welding job out of school at a tank shop had a Peddinghaus 210 Super 20. It was a nice machine, just had to be careful your hands were out of the way. A vessel shop I worked in had a tilting vertical bandsaw. It was a Taiwan copy of a Doall but still a nice saw. Way nicer to use than horizontal saws. They could roughly lay the pipe on the table and then line the cut up. They used it to cut 18" fire tubes at 45 deg's. They didn't like us using it to cut I beams for skids though.
My old iron worker is great for for bracket work on light materials,up to about 3/8". I had wanted a Doall tilting head from my early days as a welder fab guy,but couldnt aford thousands for one. This one was a mess (like my shop in the picture) when i got it at an auction. But it was only $700.00 .Cleaned it up and it works great
On small stuff (up to 4" square) I like to watch my saw do all the work. haha
I built a hack saw machine and bought another. I got one of those cheap band saws when i got out of school. I didnt know that it didnt like rusty steel so i didnt use it much until years later now i use it alot but the bands for it are getting high.
I have a terrible time getting my propane torch lit.. it blows out in the slightest breeze before I can get the oxygen on. I even got the correct propane tip and it's always a couple minute ordeal just to get lit. Anyone else have this problem?
I did until I learned to barely crack the propane on and ignite it, then really slowly add the oxygen until the flame goes back to the tip of the torch. Then in about 3 stages I increase propane, then oxygen, etc until I get that shrill/shriek sound from the torch. I did a YouTube search on propane torch cutting and stumbled onto an instructional video that shows that method for getting your torch started. Worked well for me, hope it helps you
Just hold against the steel as you light it,dont crank it open too much and the flame will stay lit.
So, hold tip perpendicular to the steel or parallel?
Just lay the tip on the steel at a bit of an angle so the gas can still flow .
some serious iron fab
As much as i enjoy playing with cranes,my fab background always seems have a project waiting.I wish i could say ive had a well rounded career .
Lighting with the tip at an angle resting on the plate works and adding a little oxygen before lighting can also help.
Used my torch today for the fist time since getting the lighting tip here. Blowing like a mother here and got it lit the first time!!!!!!!!!!!! I wouldn't have been able to get it lit without holding it against the table... GREAT ADVICE!!
My old Airco Cutmaster was a ROYAL PITA to get lit on LP, once lit was a Cutting monster.
I have 2 Airco cutmasters, I like them, even though everybody else within 50 miles seems to have Victors.
I have one of those torches its brandnew with a propane style tip but it has lefthand threads on both hoses? I need to dig it out and look at it agin.
Mine is lh on the fuel gas, rh on the oxy, just standard fittings
Maybe someone modified it, sweated in a fuel gas fitting . Sometimes you need to repair the threads if the torch gets dropped with no hoses on it.