This loader is mounted on a 440 ID tractor with a model 50 backhoe. The left boom cyl is leaking and on my other thread, I asked if this was a DIY job. ATCOEQUIP suggested I provide some pictures and I took three, however I could not get them to load in four trys. If this looks doable for me, should I buy parts from the dealer, or is there another choice? Thanks Harry
Sorry I'm late gettin' here Harry. Can you email me the pics and let me see if I can do something with them?
We should have the picture issue worked out tomorrow
Excellent Steve. The site looks good. I'd say you've been busy as a long tail cat in a room full of rockin' chairs since the wheels fell off. I'm just glad we're back.
Thanks steve, I'll try again. Harry Not yet.
AAAAAAAAAAAAhhh the dreaded iron oxide which results in the chrome layer degrading exposing the iron core,the pitting or roughness that occurs is devastating to seal material eroding the gland seal with great speed. Alas this one is not a DIY as the rod needs to be rechromed or replaced can be expensive.... At least it not as expensive as this one..
Wow Stock, that looks plum ugly! What in the world busted the cylinder like that? Harry, I agree with Stock, I think your going to need a new rod for proper repair. I think you should give it a try taking the cylinder apart. If your going to own and operate a machine, it would do you good (and save you money) if you learned to repair various parts of your rig. I usually try to leave the cylinder attached to the machine to disassemble it, this is the best way to secure the cylinder. Might be a little tricky to do that with this cylinder the way it's mounted, but might as well try. Raise your loader and tilt the bucket down so that bucket edge points to ground, then lower the arms to rest bucket edge on ground. Remove the rod pin that attaches rod to loader arm. Fully retract cylinder, then squirt it back out about 1 - 2 inches. Shut off engine, work the loader up/down lever to relieve pressure. Disconnect both hyd lines from cylinder and procede with gland (end cap) removal. Keep us informed how it goes, and if you have any questions...ask. Someone here will help you out. Those glands can get stuck, read this thread to give you a tip in how to remove it.
ATCO I now am getting worried about us ,we seem to be in agreement a lot these days :notworthy :notworthy.:notworthy As for the hitachi ram its off an 850.
Thanks Stock and ATCO, I'll take on the job and let you know, as well as asking questions. First question, do I need a spanner wrench? If so, where are they sold? ATCO, that thread on peening the barrel is priceless information. Its what I call a keeper and it has been pasted into my email B/H learning book. That book is getting fuller. :,) FYI, I called a dealer to order my first parts, brake discs. They are in stock in an Atlanta warehouse and are on the way. Also a couple of small coiled springs used on the linkage. The point is, I have a 50 year old backhoe and JD still has a pencil size spring in stock, grin, grin, grin. I didn't ask the price, I want my doctor to be in attendance when I find that out. Thanks Harry
Aye, must be the the bit of Irish in me blood! A spanner is certainly a handy tool, not sure where you'd find one, internet should help for that. In most cases I've worked on cylinders that are stuck and I resort to the peening technique, by the time you peen the barrel you can screw the gland out with a pair of slip joint pliers.
Stilson One of these is always handy and you might get it from here Sears
Okay, I have the large slip joint pliers and access to a very large stilson if mine is not large enough. Thanks again you two Harry PS; I'm starting a new thread about my next problem, water in the Trans/diff case. Hope to see you there/
McMaster Carr has them..It's a nice set..Large enough to preload the bearing on the final for a D8 and correct Duo-Cone seal leakage too. Comes with small and large ends and a rod one can put a 20' pipe on if need be.
Thanks Pitt, any idea which one I would need, its a 2 1/2'? The large number of choices throw me. Harry
5471A12 1.250" to 3.0" Adjustable Head Hook Style $19.51 or 5471A13 2.00" to 4.750 " " $27.04 5471A21 .750 to 6.250 This is a kit $92.00 The spanner I have goes from 4.750" to 12.750 This is to large From the looks of the photo you need the hook style, not the hole style..You can also put a torque wrench on a spanner...Can't do that with a chisel..It always gave me a sinking feeling when I pull a gear box apart and see chisel marks on a spanner nut..Go in any mens room and see just what channel looks do to chrome on the urinals..To lazy to use the correct tool or just have no pride in their work
You guys are so lucky, any of that stuff would be a €100 if you could get it.
Thanks Pitt, I went with the 5471A13 in case its needed on my backhoe cylinders. I ordered a seal kit from my dealer, $34 and they told me where I can get a rod made. Harry
fooey..can't delete this
I wouldn't buy a whole lot of parts till you tear um down..As bad as that rod is I would imagine the wear rings are bad and may have eaten into the rod guide to. Rod may even be bent which in turn scored the cylinder barrel walls. John Deere will have the rod and all the parts...Might be cheaper than making it