Going to be working on the outrigger cylinder of my Komatsu WB140-2N, has a slight drip and I don't like drips. I've done a lot of cylinders over the years on the various 4 backhoes I have owned, but this one has me scratchings my head over a few things. The service manual shows the piston nut is 65mm (2-9/16) so I need to get a socket first. Largest breaker bar I have currently is 3/4" drive. Sockets are available in 3/4" and 1". Nut is to be torqued to 2400 ftl/bs. I'm thinking a 8' cheater bar on a 3/4" drive breaker will twist the end off before I get my 2400 ft/lbs. Looking if any of you knowledgable individuals agree, before I fork out the cash for a 1" drive bar. Secondly the service manual calls out for light grease on the threads in addition to red Thread Locker. I was always under the impression that Locktite with grease/oils just didn't work. Don't know whether to just use grease and torque down, or whether to just use locktite and torque???
I would imagine the loctite would go on the thread & a smear of grease goes under the head of the bolt to allow smooth action for torque procedure. Never heard of doing it that way, but it would make the bolt go up even tighter than doing it dry. PS - definitely 1 inch drive of reputable quality or the T handle could bend. I can recommend Koken.
3/4 rachet is stronger than a breaker bar,, both of them are not expencsive to replace a 10 feet cheater pipe with 200 lb man equals 2000 torue 10x200== 2,000 ft lbs GL
Thanks Airman for your input. I thought it strange too, but manual says to apply grease to threads on the ram. Never heard of them, but I will check into the Koken.
I have seen too many of the ratchet pawl mechanisms break with no cheater. The breaker bars I have are solid, no flex head with those tiny pins. No way they are not 5x stronger.
You can cut a wrench out of plate with a plasma cutter or water jet to torque a one time thing like that. Build it up out of 1/4" if you have to.
Use a name brand tool. Cheap Chinese junk is a good way to get hurt when it breaks. Years ago in a pinch I was using a junk ratchet, when Japanese stuff was junk, it stripped out when I was using it and I nearly broke my hand. Snap-On, Mac, Matco are what the pros use. If you break it they replace it. I shattered a Snap-On 3/4 breaker bar doing my pistons. I did have a 15' pipe on it and the breaker bar shattered. I ended up having a friend that manages a heavy truck shop get it off. He used a 1" air hose with a 1.5" impact and it struggled. You can use a torque multiplier too.
I use a 24" pipe wrench and a pipe with a track bar in it on those big sockets.
I have two 4:1 multipliers one is 1/2" in and 3/4" out the other is 3/4" in and 1" out. Those have been a life saver but there are times that they won't do the job.