Gentlemen (or women): A cylinder is leaking and I am attempting to remove the cylinder rod guide on my loader boom cylinder on my JD 510 and well, I'm having some trouble. At first tried a hole type spanner wrench and it was just breaking away the metal edge I was applying the pressure to. Second, I tried a.. dare I say, large pipe wrench (that was obviously used in the past, which you will see in the photo), and i couldn't budge it with a 6" pipe used for leverage. Third, I tried a cold chisel and a heavy hammer to see if I could get it to budge a little but didn't have any luck. Any suggestions or learned tricks anyone cares to share? Here is a photo: Thanks ZMountain
Deere loved to use fine thread on these, and they loved to seize together. The fact that they made the head flange too narrow to get a chain wrench on or a pipe wrench to grab properly was added insult. I took an outrigger cylinder on a 510 apart thirty years ago and neither the tube nor the gland had any threads left on them. That being said, a large pipe wrench with a cheater pipe, and as suggested by tctractors in several other threads here, a lot of beating with about a two or three pound hammer right where the threads are as far around the tube as you can get, the peening all around will stretch the tube metal slightly and help shock the threads loose. A little heat might help but don't get carried away, it just helps the threads weld together. I have also seen a piece of heavy plate cut to fit around the rod and welded to the outer flange of the gland as a method of last resort to give something to apply torque to. A short piece of tube was welded onto the plate to give something for a bar to fit into. Not suggesting it but I have seen it. Good luck!
HeavyEquipmentForums Here's the thread with pictures of how to peen the cylinder around the threaded area, post #7. Also, wrap the rod with sheet aluminum and hold it with a hose clamp before you mess up the chrome when something slips. The way that wiper seal is falling apart, I wouldn't be surprised if somebody failed to get it apart on the previous time the pipe wrench was used.
Delmer, I couldn't find that thread, lol. It is a forty year old machine, that cylinder may have been repacked several times by now Those 510's were a real moose when new, sturdy machine.
She still has life in her after 40 years. :thumbsup I just need her to stop bleeding fluid. I will try the suggestions soon. Thank you!
Got the rod guide free. Turns out, there is a set screw at the top. If you look closely at the photo you can see a hole where it sits. I backed it out, peened it, soaked it and used a 6 foot bar and a large pipe wrench and it broke free. Threads looked to be in great shape after I backed it out.
Yeehaw! :usa
I just say your post this afternoon, the first thing that came to mind was, "did he look for a set screw between the top piece and the barrel"?. Been there; have the t-shirt...
You can send the t-shirt on to me now :duh
Wait for the day you install new seals on all the components, install the piston on the rod and lock it down, then notice the gland still sitting on the bench. It happens.
SURELY NOT!!! to someone of your caliber you watched someone else do this, is how you know it can be done!!
100% me that been there done that.
Anybody that's rebuilt cylinders tells you they never have, just respond: Not yet! I always try to install the new seals and if needed bushing in the rod gland first and slip it on the rod... if I change the piston seals first, guess what I put on first? :Banghead
I wasn't going to admit that I had... BUT LOL it has happened especially when I get distracted