Hey everyone, Got a D10T, serial# RJG00480 So I was swapping out rear idlers, shut the engine off, went to move the ripper and it would not start... Checked starters and found drivers side solenoid connector corroded and falling off, repaired that and tried again, same thing. Checked batteries and negative cable on drivers side fell apart in my hands, replaced cables, junctions blocks to newer style on both sides, all 4 batteries tested below 50% so they were swapped out also. Checked condition of cables to both starters and alternator. Checked and cleaned engine and frame grounds, verified with multimeter, battery voltage at both positives. Still no crank, main relay and both starter relays are audibly clicking in cab, removed and tested anyway and both were good. Bypassed starter disconnect switch and tested again, same thing. Im beginning to believe I have a failed starter motor or even both! Thermal camera shows passenger side starter solenoid getting warmer, Attempted to jump in machine to see if i could get the solenoid to at least click but neither side will. If I get someone to operate the key while I check the starter solenoid power it is delivering 24+v on both sides Question for anyone who has worked on twin starter C27s is would one still try to at least crank if the other one is failed ? That makes sense in my head and when I read the schematic but I cannot get anything out if this, chances both failed at the exact same time is low...... I guess another problem I could potentially have is a bendix jammed in the flywheel so I will attempt to bar the engine back and see if I can hear a pop Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
I use Fluke DC amp probe on batteries and or starter. Ohm meter on starter. Least that may put you in the right direction without pulling everything apart including your hair.
Stupid question. Is the parking brake switch on or off.?
Did you rotate the engine by hand yet? If you are getting 24v at both starter solenoids while cranking, you either have the engine locked or no ground. I haven’t worked on that engine, but the big 3516s with dual starters would still start with one starter out.
We had a similar problem, we had voltage at starter , solenoid engaged but it didn´t turn, after a lot of hassle and a repaired starter, we figured out that one batery was bad, it had good voltage but couldn´t deliver amp. Once the starter was engaged voltage dropped 14 or something.
That’s were good test equipment is priceless
Been tinkering with some D10 idlers over here in the UK.Fortunately for me,I was a safe distance from the brute
That is a very good cleaning job.
The chap that supplies any tractors I need has a superb cleaning bay
Haha yep it was on, thats burned me before!
Update, Pulled both starters and confirmed that both had in fact failed..... Talking to a Cat rep and he figures that the second starter is only engaged in cold weather so 90% of the time it doesnt do anything. This makes sense as it was rusted hard when I pulled the cap off. Could never find that info on SIS though so maybe its on an accessory operation. Thanks for the help!