My 2005 D37 with about 3000 hours started burning oil -- every so slightly blue-tinted exhaust smoke and rapidly lowering of oil level. I was hoping there was a leak in a pipe/hose (despite the smoke coming out of the exhaust) because I think it also came out the front (by the radiator). But I could not find any leak, except where the flexible (rubber) host meets the metal host on the oil cooler. So I removed the turbocharger and exhaust header that is part of the turbocharger to see if blue smoke is coming out of the engine and I think (pretty sure) it is. Is there anything left to inspect, examine, test, look at, etc., before concluding there's a problem either in the engine head or pistons? Thank you!
Try removing the air cleaner filters and see if it still smokes . 3000 hrs is low for a worn motor if its been looked after
Removed the air filter and still have blue'ish smoke from exhaust. But I also have it from the underside of the engine compartment. This is consistent with seeing it come out the front of the engine compartment (by the radiator) also. Any ideas? Thanks!
Blue smoke from a Komatsu engine is normal when the engine is warming up but should clear out quickly. Many times it can be caused by a bad fuel injector. It was common for them to start slobbering a little around those hours, especially if they ever got a shot of water through them. Running with a slobbering injector for any amount of time can cause wash down on the cylinders and possibly a lack of lubrication and scoring on the rings, pistons and cylinders. Smoke coming from below the engine is usually from the breather tube and may indicate a loss of compression in one or more of the cylinders. You can pull the dipstick and see it as well. Blow by pressure can be measured with a manometer and should be less than one inch of water at full speed and full load. A 2005 model engine may have positive crankcase ventilation though which would mean there is no breather tube and if so, smoke from under the engine would be a real bad thing.
Sounds like there's a chance I have a bad injector. I tried to find the right part number, but there's contradictory info online. Does anyone have the correct injector part number? Thanks!
We had a brand new px37, blue smoke every morning even in summer.
The best thing on a possibly bad injector is to pull them all and have them tested. You can plan out your next step knowing what you actually have instead of spending money on a guess.
That makes perfect sense but I don't know how to test them nor do I have someone local who can do that. I'd much rather replace the injectors and keep my fingers crossed that it's not engine work that is needed. Thanks!
I discovered that the breather tube (AKA blow by tube, I think?) is where the oil and smoke are coming from. Quite a lot of both. I changed all the filters (oil, fuel, air) and it's still doing it. From googling I see that it could be leaky rings. Anything else (less expensive) it could be? Or something I can check to further troubleshoot? Thank you!
Maybe valve guides
Did someone change the fuel filters and loose prime and think they should start it with a snort of ether?
I don't know how to check that.
No snorts of anything while changing the filters.
I tried filling the fuel filter with seafoam, letting it idle for a couple minutes, then turning it off and letting the seafoam clean stuff. Didn't fix the problem. I'm replacing the injectors today. Sure hope that fixes it because I'm running out of random things within my capability and price range to try. BTW, removing the oil filler cap while running did not reveal any pressure coming out. So, if oil and smoke are coming out of the breather tube but no pressure at the oil filler cap, what does that mean is likely going on inside?
If you have blow by coming out of the breather injectors will not fix it time for a rebuild
I suffer from a severe case of wishful thinking. Could smoke and oil coming out of the breather tube be anything other than blow by?
Since you are going to change the injectors anyway, just do it and let us know what happens. We are curious. There can be multiple issues going on and that may have happened in the past. Focus on now and what is actually wrong with the engine.
Turbo can go out and pressurize the sump. Disconnect the turbo return line from the block. It won't leak much in the time it takes to see if that is the problem.
Well, after many hours of disassembling everything I have discovered that the new injectors I waited a week for are the wrong type. But, injector number 1 was wet all around it's outside. The injectors in place read: Brasil Kdal 220 bar 908 3269 59p42 585 30 or 80 Anyone know where to get these (or a compatible alternative) quickly? Thanks!
Coolant in crank case could cause excusive blow by look at oil filler cap and see if there is any condensation on it or if it looks milky
Reporting back: I got 4 new injectors and installed. It's still spitting oil from the breather tube (resulting in the oil level dropping pretty rapidly). Is there anything else that could be going on that wouldn't require an engine rebuild? Did the oil filler cap loosen test -- no pressure coming out. No pressure out the dipstick hole. Engine feels nice and strong. No weird noises (like missing firing on a cylinder). Just oil and smoke out the breather tube and a rapidly dropping engine oil. Oil that comes out is not milky. Thanks!
From what you are saying you have blow by caused from worn or damaged pistons or liners sounds like you will have to tear it down
Pressure can't build up because the breather is letting the pressure go . Block it and open your filler cap and there will be blow by most likely . After reading on these pages about a dipstick being launched across a yard be wary of it if you block the breather tube .
Just did that. I didn't have a plug, so I just kinked the rubber tube coming off the metal breather fitting (that is, it was mostly blocked) and sure enough I felt plenty of pressure (and gas) coming out of the filler tube. Is there anything it could be that would not require an engine removal and breakdown? Thanks!
Nope , it needs rebuilding . You could sell it . Should be still a tidy dozer at 3000 hrs if they are genuine .
It's otherwise in excellent shape. I bought it several years ago with 2000 hours. Any idea what the cost of rebuilding might be?
Prohibitive springs to mind . I've seen the cost of work done on Komatsu's in the US quoted on these forums well out wack compared to here , seen other work done cheaply . Few days sending out emails to different places that cater for Komatsu's be worth the time .
Probably looking at around 5 grand to overhaul it. Just my opinion.
What should I do?
You can rebuild that engine cheaper then replacing the dozer. Have you ever been inside an engine before?
Pull the head off and see what is inside. It is not a big job and you might find something wrong with the head anyway.
Something has happened in the life of the engine to make it wear out before its due . Should be still on its original tracks . If you open it up be prepared to do all the work , not so easy to transport in bits . Because of the age it would be better to re-condition to a high standard , bottom end , pistons liners , oil pump , water pump , head work (valves , guides , head plane ) injector pump. So you never have to go near it again for 6 thousand hours or more . Is this the 6 cylinder motor ? I could understand if the motor had overheated at some point that it would be burning oil now .
Can anyone recommend where I can this 4BT (SAA4D102e-2) rebuilt? Thanks!
Right here on this forum. Get your tools out!
That's super encouraging and generous of you -- thank you! Assuming a pretty descent mechanical ability (we've changed dozer and PC160 tracks, replaced seals on the dozer's track tension assembly and plenty of other things) but not any engine work, do you really think we can do this?
Probably some of the requirements to be able to successfully rebuild a diesel engine: Lifting equipment to be able to R&R the engine. Space to put the machine in for the job. Inside space for tear down and reassembly of the engine. Includes tables and containers for the component parts. Tools sufficient to measure parts. Micrometers, depth mikes, snap gauges, feeler gauges Any special tools for the engine: timing pins for the governors, etc A good machine shop experienced in diesel engine machine work. The ability to recognize what is worn and needs replaced as opposed to just replacing everything. Torque wrenches appropriate to the size of your engine. A good machine shop should be found before you undertake the project. They can guide you in most of what needs to be accomplished. You also need to finalize your parts source before you start. That motor including the R&R is about 70 to 90 hours of work for an experienced wrench working full time on the project. Probably figure half again more for someone who has to work from the manual, put out fires and rebuild at the same time.
Common enough for these things to crack rings, there's an updated part number, pull the nose cone and disconnect the trays and sling it through the cab floor with a bar through it to hold it up. Pull the engine and head and sump and pull the pistons and fit new rings, maybe hone it if it needs it and then send it.
This is way above my skill level. I found a guy who can do this, but his supplier quoted him $3,000 (US) for the rebuilt kit. I see them online for $500-$1,000. Is there a difference? Does it make sense to take it apart first to see if it's just 1 ring, or a singular other part? Thanks!
I'd just do rings if that's all it needs honestly. If you wanna be sure it's rings before fully jumping in pull the head , I think you can do it without removing the nose cone but may as well as it's stuff all to remove. Film the cylinders with diesel and see how quick they leak down, if one or two are going quicker look there for problem and you'll know it's rings. I'd also turn engine over and check bores for damage to see if she needs a hone. Then pull the engine and do it, might be able to do in frame but not sure if the sump will fit out, can't remember but I do remember you don't need to pull the cab to do it, you can get in through the top and bottom, have fun digging lol. Price wise no bloody idea sorry
I've been trying to get this info from Cummins and from Komatsu, both in the US and Japan, and no one can help. I have a Komatsu D37ex-21A with a SAA4d102-e engine, ESN 26363507 and need a replacement. That ESN cannot be identified -- I think because it was made in Japan. Does anyone have any way to look up the specs? Thank you!
I have a hard time understanding that a Komatsu dealer couldn't provide you any information on that engine unless it wasn't an original engine.
Me too. I believe it's because it's made in Japan. But no one has been able to help.
If you are looking for Cummins numbers you are out of luck. Komatsu doesn't use the engine serial number and by contract have prevented Cummins from providing any information on the engine. The best you can do is to give the machine serial number to the Komatsu dealer and ask for a parts break down and maybe talk to someone in service to get the torque specs. As best as I can recall, it is a 4BT3.9 and the torque specs will be the same. There may be differences in some of the bolt on parts. It also may be a Komatsu engine which will be completely different. Does you engine have four individual valve covers on one long one?
Most of them are I would think . Is the business a franchise Komatsu dealer or just one that repairs them , franchise maybe the wrong word . Are you sure its a Komatsu and not a rebranded Case , seem to recall there's been something said on the pages here about rebranded Cases sold as Komatsu .
https://dieselcranks.com/komatsu-saa4d102e-2-cummins-4bt-3-9l-complete-engine-reconditioned.html google search shows they are used in a few different brands of machinery
Rebuilding a 4bt is gonna run you around 5 grand. Just had one done.
With those hrs on it to be using oil and breathing like it is I would have a good hard look at the air intake system and air filters because it may have got dust in it from somewhere, be a shame to rebuild the motor and have it happen again because of an air leak on the intake system that wasn't fixed. Cheers
Both prices seem cheap , being a Cummings a new motor may be a good buy . Environmental standards may have seen an end to them but upgraded one might fit . I would be having a closer look at the hour clock , to easy to take a 6000 hr dozer down to a 2000 hr one with a new clock .
https://cppdiesel.com/4bt-crate-engine-inline-or-rotary/ so long as it is the same including oil pickup , must be good buying