The power shift transmission operates just fine, except the torque converter start to run hot after a couple hours of use. If I run it easy at half throttle, I can keep it away from going into the red zone. I had someone change the transmission fluid and filter. The filter screen was plugged with chunks of all kinds of things. A lot of orange, maybe gasket material. A couple chunks of what looks like could be clutch material. The magnets were covered in metal. A couple different equipment mechanic told me just run it until it quits. I am not sure if that is good advice or not. Does anyone have any kind of idea the cost to pull the transmission and rebuild it, if that is what ends up being necessary?
Its dam expensive if you do it right. Do you have pics of the debris?
I know it’s damned expensive, I’m just trying to find out how expensive damned expensive is. I will contact the guy who change the oil and see if he still has a picture.
Your looking at complete removal of the transmission and torque convertor, teardown.....inspect.....clean-up....basic rebuild components.....hard parts, then install and adjust. If Cat were to do it I'de say $33K minimum. This is doing it right by definition.
If it’s that expensive, anyone interested in a D6C that runs and operates great except for the above mentioned transmission issues?
Here are the pictures. A warning, these could be disturbing to sensitive viewers.
Your tractor should have a air to oil torque cooler in front of the radiator ,clean that out may help with over heating. It also has a regular transmission oil cooler on side of engine. Did you clean power divider screen in bottom of housing? The transmission pump screen and filter also pulls oil from steering clutches and brakes. A lot of junk comes from there. If your transmission works well might not need a overhaul. That filter is usually neglected ,maybe fix overheat and run a while and change filter again. Looking at pictures magnets are missing on screen and looks like brake lining. metal fuzz is normal for a screen that hasn't been cleaned for a while. Sticks didn't come out of transmission. Bob
He said he did clean that bottom screen. I was under the impression this machine did not have the oil to air cooler at the radiator, only the cooler on the side. I will take a look and see tomorrow. When it’s running warm the gauge needle is about 3/4 into the green. Then it will sometimes quickly move toward red. One time it did it very quickly when I opened up the throttle into the red. Then it moved back down very quickly after decelerating. I have wondered if it is actually getting hot or if it is a sensor or gauge problem.
If you are working the tractor you should be running the motor at high idle, this will help cool things. Early tractors came without the torque coolers but most were added later .All the later ones had them. Pull the radiator front screen and clean out the radiator. Check the fan belts. We like to work on the KISS program rather than the SHOTGUN trouble shooting. If you can fix the overheating run the tractor and change the filter in a week or two. If you have a IR gun check the oil temps when the gauge says hot. Bob
What does your transmission oil look like. What did your filters look like. Collapsed or not. Buy some new magnetic screens. They're available aftermarket. The brake lining in the second photo may have been in there or in the screen for a long time. May have come from a previous set of brake bands. That's a lot of trash but not enough to determine your transmission needs a rebuild. If you want to know what a reman transmission and converter costs, call Portland Tractor. A 10K will almost run forever.
One of the first things the guy who serviced the transmission did was checked the oil, I remember him saying it looked good. I didn’t stick around while he changed the filter or see the filter. He has worked on another piece of equipment I have before and he always tear filters apart to see what’s inside. He didn’t mention anything alarming about the filter. Somewhere I got the idea they didn’t put on air oil coolers until later machines. I opened up the front cover this morning and it looks like it has an oil cooler on the left side of the radiator. I looked for it before but the way it’s in there it’s hard to see there is a separate radiator in there from the main one until the front cover was open. I tightened the belts this morning, they were a little loose. It’s getting good air flow through both radiators but they are a little dirty. I will clean them out, see if that makes a difference, probably in a few days. The engine runs cool so I didn’t make cleaning the radiator a priority, until now I see there is an oil cooler. Out here in the woods I have my water wagon for fire. Would carefully hosing it out straight on with that be a recommended way to clean it? Being mindful to not bend the fins of course. I pushed dirt for a couple hours with it this morning. It didn’t get quite as hot but it was also earlier in the morning when it was cooler than last time. Otherwise the machine runs and operates like a dream. It’s a joy to operate.
Sounds like the filters were fine. I wouldn't use water to clean the radiator at first. Too much mud to deal with. If she has a pusher fan, open the throttle wide open and use an air wand to break the dirt loose from the front. The fan will push the dirt forward as you loosen it up. When you can't dislodge any more dirt, you can hose it out but you'd better keep going until she's perfectly clean or you'll have mud plugs between the fins.
That strainer looks like every one that I've pulled out of all the Cat dozers I've had to service. Lots of junk comes off the steering brakes, especially the older machines.
Sounds like the guy doing the oil change knows what he is doing. washed lots of radiators with a fire wagon as long as they don't have oil in them. This time of year wash out belly pans ,get rid of dirt around transmission and engine pan. More importantly any oil or flammable duff. Never know when you may be drafted for fire duty. Torque cooler was added as these tractors ran a little warm. Bob
Makes me wonder if the cooler is internally clogged
The clutch parts look like brake material I would run it I have seen metal in a lot of strainers as long as there is no big pieces might do a convertor in pressure to see if convertor is leaking internally