I am looking at a 1979 or 1980 D3B dozer. It has 80% under carriage; 6 way blade; pedal steer; new clutches; 3600 hours. The owner says it is a good work horse but if run real hard it can use up to two quarts of oil by blow by. Does anyone know if this engine has sleeved cylinders or not? Also is asking $9500.00 for machine. I will be going to look at the machine on Sunday is there anything I should be looking for on this dozer? Any suggestions or opinions welcome. TIA Leonard
Got a Serial Number (engine or tractor, doesn't matter) ..? I can look in the system for you. I would reckon it does have liners that could be replaced but not 100% sure.
I don't have a serial number but I have a call into the owner to see if he can get it for me. Thanks.
3204 engine , no sleeves. jr
The serial number for the tractor is 23y0467 and the engine is 45v24173.
Thanks Jr.
Yep, 3204 engine.Solid block unless someone has bored it and installed liners. Also has 2 ring pistons and was noted for blowby when new. Overhaul kits come available with 3 ring pistons. Make sure the engine does not overheat. These engines do blow head gaskets however the engines are simple to work on. I have a 1980 D3b and I would not take $9500 for it. That is not a bad price if the machine is in good shape and you can put some money in it and still not be hurting.
Thanks, I will let eveyone know what I find on Sunday.
It also appears the engine is not original. According to the tractor Serial Number the Engine Serial # should be 45V32894 or higher. So it looks as though someone's dropped a different 3204 engine in it at some point. If you do buy this dozer you should use the Engine Serial Number for ordering engine parts otherwise you might get something that doesn't fit. The Part Number for a correct replacement Cylinder Block Gp for your engine would be 4N-0101.
Thanks
Nige, I brought it home and the plate on the side of the unit has both serial numbers on it that I posted. I will try to get some pictures and post them soon. Thanks to everyone for their help.
Thanks ht.
Sorry for any confusion. It's just that "the system" says for your Serial # of tractor the engine Serial # should be 45V32894 or higher. If both numbers are on the same plate on the tractor it has to be kosher. Not the first time the system will have been wrong BTW ......... See if there is a Serial # plate on the engine, just to make sure.
Why would the engine over heat on the d3b? Is there specific problems?
Two quarts of oil in how long is the question here. In a day? or how long of a time span. To me there are a couple of things that raise an eyebrow here as I have lots of experience with D3. The 3,600 hours seems suspect to me for a couple of reasons. My D3 had 5,500 hours on it before engine was tore done, yes it was using oil by that point. Next thing is 3,600 hours and 80% undercarriage does not add up. I always got 3,200 to 3,400 hours on rail on mine. That means it has had to have been replaced at some point in time. New steering clutches sound suspect too. My machine has almost 9,000 hours on it now and still has original clutch packs. Only thing I have done there is replace the pads on the brake bands. At any rate for $9,500.00 it still is a deal. Steering clutches are a sizeable amount of money.
The 3204 is noted for blow -by . I own a D3B and had a 931 b track loader . They are not sleeved as said earlier stated . keep final drives full to the plug . 9500.00 is a great price if its a workable dozer . however if its going through 2 qts of oil a day or something like that, its going to be a torment and a rebuild is in your future . engines will over heat if machine has been used in a topsoil or peat enviroment . The rad plugs fairly quickly and needs to be pressure cleaned occasionally or overheating will occur .
Only way a 3204 is sleeved is if it gets bored out and sleeved on an over haul.
Cat_man320. My D3b does seem to run hot, but not over heat. I will check the radiator fins. Thanks for the tip. You suggest to keep the final drives full. What fluid to you suggest? the service manual specs a oil that is no longer available, and my local dealer said one type, while a different dealer said some thing else. same goes tor the hydraulic, and trans I just bought my unit last year, and want to service it before using it
Does any one have a drawing, or template for the engine side covers on a 1985 or so, D3b? Or side covers they want to sell in the New Jersey or Vermont area?
If your rad is not plugged on the outside , its possible you may have a few cores plugged on the inside . Check the fan belt tension, if its a little slack the water pump may not be turning fast enough to cool the engine . As for the final drives , i have been using 90w 120 in mine for the last 10-15 years . I run straight 30w in the tranny and bevel gear and Nuto 32 for hydraulic oil . have had no issues with anything since I bought my dozer in 1980 and it still runs perfect . keep all filters changed regularly and if nothing is damaged right now , chances are you will have a lot less issues in the future .
Greg, The manual for your D3B says TO-2 oil, which has now been replaced by the current TO-4 specification. SAE50 should work in your climate conditions.
Cat_man320: When I bought this dozer last year, it did not have engine side covers, so it was easy to feel the heat blowing past the engine. I don't believe the water temp gauge is functional. The engine and radiator did appear dirty, and I will power wash this spring. I know I need to do all the filters. I think the previous owner ran Shell Rotella 30w in the engine and trans. Not sure about the rest. The filler bolt for the left final drive is damaged, and the Vermont weather hit before I was able to remove it and check the level. Thank you for the help. Vtgreg
Nige, Cat_man320, I read in application note,(that I did not save) at a Pa. Cat dealer/service that the TO-4 was not designed for the older D3b, hence my questions. This dealer said to use TD/TO30 for the trans/clutch. He did say, not to use engine oil in the trans. Hydraulic is just sae 10w. Engine, bevel, track rollers, idlers, final drive is " cat special application oil" or Rotella T sae 30??? This is why I have questions. Thanks for your help guys.
Only too happy to help, not sure what type plugs you have in the final drive housings. on one side of mine is a female 1/2 " drive and on the other is a male 1/2" drive . A feww good raps of a hammer will help loosen the plug . becarefull if the plug is recessed in the housing a little . you can destroy the housing threads and have a devil of a time trying to get the plug out . If your new to dozing and especially on a smaller dozer , when your pushing let the dozer do the pushing in the direction it wants to push unless your pushing to a designated spot or working in close quarters. If you want to turn , turn when backing up not with the strain on the dozer . You will get at least 10 times the wear out of your steering clutches and brakes . Its hard to get use to but and takes years sometimes to be really efficient but saves a lot of wear and tear on your dozer . I started out with my dad 45 years ago and money wasn't free flowing like it is today , we started with nothing so we had to save our equipment as much as we could and it certainly paid off . I am still a small time operation with only 4 excavators 330 , 320 315 , and 300 hitachi , D3 D8 , few loaders and dump trucks. I owe no money on it and tke care of it as best I can . Best of luck with it . This is the best site for getting info and help .
Every dealer have a different opinion on what to use after the older dozers go out of warranty. they may be right on what to use and i can't disagree . but I know what has worked for me . I am probably in a colder climate than you being South of me and i have not had any issues . I don't use my equipment winter time , so some of the oils i use may not be condusive to winter operation . if it were me i would go with what your dealer in your area tell you .
Cat_man320 You are correct! The dealers don't seem to have a consistent answer. You are an experienced owner/operator/service person. So, if your unit is operating without problems, your plan works. As I mentioned in a previous post, I think the trans (and bevel) has 30w. I'm going to stick with that. Engine oil, Rotella T 30w, hydraulic will probably be the Case TCH hydraulic fluid, (20w) as that is what I use in my 680L backhoe. 90w sounds good for the final drive. Thanks again!
Cat_man320: re final drives. My d3b is the same. Female 1/2" drive on the left, male on the right. Yes, the female port threads are nicked/damaged already. Problem is, my equipment, d3b, 680L hoe, and hitachi 100m3 excavator, are in/used in Vermont to build our driveway, foundation, etc. Me and my tools live in New Jersey. So when I make the 6 hour trip by car, or 8 hour trip with dump truck and 20xl trailer, I have to make darn sure I bring all the right tools! My plan was to bring the dozer back to nj and work on it over the winter, but the Vermont weather beat me. Our road (class 3) is hard pack dirt,granite. So, snow or ice, stops my dump truck with trailered equipment, in its tracks, literally!, But yes, this is my first dozer, so any operating tips are GREATLY APPRECIATED!!! I will be heading up in April, tools, compressor, power washer, small lathe, drill press, etc. in tow, to do as much maintenance as possible. Identify needed parts, return home, repair and purchase, and back to vt I know the right d3b brake seems worn; grabbing - grinding, when applied. Although, it does work. I have the service manual, I believe I know what parts are needed, do you think it would be foolish of me to by the parts before I dissemble it, or tear it down first? Any words of advise? Thank again. Vtgreg.
Again your welcome . I guess it depends where your going to do your repairs and how close your Cat dealer is to you . If you order parts before you tear it down not knowing whats really gone and you are 100 miles from the nearest dealer , you could lose a couple of days going back and forth . If you tear down and know what you got to buy then you are off to a good start.