I have a 96 D3C. sometimes when it is cold the machine will barely move in any gear or sometimes just stop. I can hear something almost like a pump noise "whirring" Then a day later the machine will work flawlessly from cold. the left brake pedal is very sticky - im not sure if that has anything to do with it but sometimes when i'm traveling in 3rd gear and try to turn right the whole machine will want to stop as if the left pedal was still depressed. ANything i should look for - any tips?
Has the trans fluid been changed along with the filter? What fluid is in the trans? What is the machine serial number?
i purchased the machine a month ago. NOthing has been changed. I will get the S/N - do i have to drop the belly pan to get to the filters? DO you know what volume and oil type i should use for the trans?
First suggestion - get an Operation & Maintenance Manual. Less than $50 and with all the answers you need regrding basic maintenance tasks like changing filters, oil type & quantity in each compartment, etc. Help is available but needs a Serial Number to kickstart the process.
OK, got the S/N. Pocedure is as follows: - Go to https://catpublications.com/ When the popup appears, click on "Continue as Guest" Type SEBU6731 in the box and click Search. The below should appear. Paper book & CD will attract S&H on top of the price shown. If you go for a pdf download then when you receive the notification that your file is ready you have to click on "Login" at the RH side of the menu bar then click on "Manage Orders". You don't have to already have or create a Cat account in order to do this. See below.
A complete Service Manual is Cat Publication reference SENR5330. FYI a new paper one lists at $755, a CD version $415. Identical CD's are on eBay for $365. I can't currently see a used papaer one anywhere, but that doesn't mean that tomorrow there won't be one advertised. With dealer time @ $150/hour, $300 to 400 for a manual can be the best investment you ever make, and you can sell it separately and pretty much get your money back if you ever sell the tractor.
Here is the T&A for the Power Train. The adjustments for the directional and speed control linkages are right at the end of the document.
Sticky pedals on old Cat dozers are usually because they have needle bearings on the pivot shafts for the pedals. There were no grease fittings in most that I worked on. You basically took them apart and flushed the dirt out of the bearings and greased them up again and put it all back together. The filters are under the floor boards just in front of the operator's seat. You need to get the books and do some readings for the proper maintenance. The other issue on these machines was the transmission shift linkages. Those are all rods, clevis joints joints with ball bushings and direct change rods. All that stuff gets loose and give you shifting problems over time. Many times some penetrating oil is all that it takes. Most of the time though, you will need to replace worn parts. Good Luck!
Here are the specifications and adjusting procedure for the steering and brake controls. As John said the best thing is (just like the transmission controls) go through everything obvious first - cleaning, lubricating, replacing worn parts, etc, etc. For a machine of that age it would not be unusual to see wear in the linkages. Be prepared to spend a little money on replacement parts. Do that BEFORE you even think about going near any of the adjusting rods with tools.
Nige mines a B but this one and previous you posted is exactly what I have, so thanks
Hey all, thanks to Nige i was able to determine the following was wrong with my transmission: a) cartridge filter was plugged - paper was broken down and black. b) not enough transmission oil c) possibly not the right type of transmission oil. I cleaned the suction strainer, replaced the top cartridge filter, and put in 7.3 gallons of fresh SAE30 and machine is working good at any temp. Just need to work on adjusting pedals now. Thanks Nige
Make sure you clean & lubricate all the linkages (transmission & steering/brakes) before you think about making any adjustments.
Thanks. Nige, I tried to investigate the oil leak on the engine - it looks like its originating from where the starter mounts to the bellhousing possibly. Do these have damper oil - i wonder if there is supposed to be a starter gasket.... Or I'm wondering if my rear main seal is gone.
I dunno but I don't think so. I'm sure someone out there knows for certain. According to the Parts Manual there is a gasket - Part Number 3K-3257 (Ref # 4 on the illustration) I would suggest a good pressure clean of the area to identify exactly where the oil is coming from.
The starter is floating in transmission oil, it circulates into and out of the bell housing. There is a gasket as Nige pointed out which is number 4, its made of paper. With it leaking it could be the bolts are loose.
That would explain why my transmission was so low on oil. Engine oil was extremely low too. i guess ill check tightness of bolts first before i order a gasket
If you find that the bolts are not fully tight you’re probably going to need a gasket anyway because as the starter motor has been moving it will have fretted the gasket away to almost nothing. Tightening the bolts at that point will not seal the joint. If you replace the gasket make sure to remove all traces of the old one on both the flywheel housing and the starter flange.