New here on this forum, hope im getting it right. I have a 78a D4D with D4E winch that I have a couple of questions on. Firstly... I have had this thing a few years and it has mainly sat around because it needed work I didn't have time to do. But now I have it in my shop giving it a good going over. It had the original C frame trunnion balls still and the C frame moved about 3 inches forward and back when going from forward to reverse. All the rest of the A blade was just as bad. Crank your arms all the way to one side and set it down and it would go flat. Great for gravel spreading, crap for pulling ditches, benching roads, etc. I have all the blade redone, every pivot point in the C frame and angle mechanisms, and the center pin. All the cylinder joints are still pretty tight, it was greased good at least. I had to replace one hydraulic track tensioner, and pack the inner part, and the other side is coming soon because all the chrome is already gone from it. I pulled a rod from one of the blade cylinders and as soon as I saw it my mind was refreshed back to mine and my Dads ol' 6C and I knew I had the wrong packing so I am waiting on that. But anyhow the point is. I fixed the blade and frame group, and I was going to do the rest of everything outside of the building and I kept finding more I wanted to do. BTW, this all started because I need to push some dirt to widen a driveway over a culvert for my neighbor. The C frame was so bad when I picked it up with my ol' knuckleboom it just jiggled like Jello. Probably because the trunnions were so bad letting it spread. Someone had wrapped rebar around the trunnions and welded it to keep it from pushing all the way off. Once I decided to move it in ,I dropped the belly pans that hadn't been down in years clearly and I gave it a good pressure washing, inside, out, and under. Well I noticed that it strung a liquid across the shop floor. First thought, dang I hope thats water? Nope, fuel... So its coming from the weep tube on the lift pump, or transfer pump which had been stuck down in dirt so you couldn't tell.. So I ordered up my parts(I have all the parts books and I have the Hydraulic and Tractor service manuals)and I got that pump off. Well I noticed the meter had a big crack on the back like it had been frozen. This machine had been ran with the primary filter missing like most of them. It doesn't hurt that much if the machine doesn't sit around, we never ran one in the old 6C and my dad bought it in 74' and it is a 69' model with turbo, and he nor I ever had to work on that pump. And it ran most everyday on a logging job. But this little 4 sat a lot, and still does so it took some water damage. When I got it I had to dig the sludge out of the main filter housing with either and a screwdriver. The geared shaft in that transfer pump had groves where it rusted against the seals 15 thousanths deep. I spun it in my drill press with emory on it and I got it in decent shape within 2 or 3 thousanths across the entire length and it fits the seals and bearings good so Im gonna try it. My main question starts here. I had to tear the seal retainer up on the meter end to get it out, it was so rusted in place. The machine has a meter in dash, so why cant I just make an end plate and cut a gasket and cap it on there and eliminate the meter as long as that spring seal and retainer are in the correct position I dont see a problem? Its obvious that meter hasn't worked in many years.I have everything to go back together except that seal retainer which is the only part that seems to be Cat only, and its coming in Monday. I don't see why a cover would be any worse than a non working meter with a chewed off shaft. I pretty much know the answer to this question but looking to see if I am missing something. And I had another question. Previous owner stated winch (D4E) works but brakes don't hold. That was true. So I finally took a look at that. No silicone on torn side plates equals a winch full of rust and greasy water mixture. At first I thought it was just gonna be a clean up and adjustment job. But then I noticed the brake drum and the shaft were spline stripped. So does anyone know of that stuff anywhere? I have found 1 used drum for a grand and Im not paying that to fix something I don't use. If I don't find a solution im just gonna weld that drum to the shaft. Its trash anyway, and there are no machine shops around here anymore that capable, although there are a couple hi-tech scannning water jets...hmmm.. When I weld it I will pack it behind with wet towels and do a little at a time because I realize there is a seal behind there. I know this was lengthy but it seems some people are really into these lil' D4s on here and like to hear all about them. I have several more things to do to it. Couple of big things are final drive seals leaking, yay! Always Cats weak point, final drives. And it has that ridiculous round Fleco cab that I have to roll over the battery boxes in a ball to get in. So Im whacking it and straightening the curves. But she runs like a champ. Just weak after being used to a turbo 6 and some more modern stuff. Have had my hands on many dozers, 6m(mine), D6C(mine), D6D(my dad's), JD 650K, 750C, 850C, Case 1450B(mine), 1150G(mine), 1550, Fiat 175, and I could go on, but this pump job and injection pumps/ injectors may help that considering how bad this pump was. I learned on a direct drive and I still love them. Any suggestions appreciated.
My suggestion would be repost what you wrote and put it into paragraphs like what I have done below. All I see is an unreadable block of text
Holy cow, wall of text. My suggestion is start with some easier reading for a Saturday evening. I may have found a new favorite copy pasta.
It's no better than if it was one long sentence. Did you get the dozer just to push some dirt for your neighbor?
I redone this post and reposted, but this seems to be the only one that everyone keeps finding. I could not figure out how to delete it. I thought I did, but all I did was delete someone's comment. I took the dozer on partial payment for an International truck I had. This guy wanted it and was short 4,000.00 so I took the dozer to cover that 4k. I have about 65 acres so its handy to have around. I have a D6D but its never around here. I hadn't used the 4 in a couple years and the C frame was so bad I was afraid to do that work for my neighbor. Have to bury 40 feet of 32" culvert about 8 foot deep, and the dirt has to be pushed over 100 feet. It's a good runner, it just needed some neglected things repaired. Even has fairly new U/C, but whoever did that cheaped out and didn't buy pads, they put old pads on new rails. Once im done with it completely it will be ready for about anything. No oil burn, no blow by. I have had it 5 years or more, just haven't had time to tinker with it. The correct blade cylinder packing came yesterday, and the last parts for transfer pump should be in tomorrow so maybe some accelerated progress. I still am going to do something about that ridiculous Fleco Igloo cab. Now looking at two 1450B Case dozers, I already owned one of those two about 20 years ago, and built the engine and tranny. But the bottom is worn out now. And it has the power 8 way blade that is pretty worn. The mate to it has a brand new bottom, and a tight manual C frame 6 way, and 4 shank riper, but the tranny quits pulling once it gets hot. I am gonna check parts availability before I bite, but I can own both for 5,000.00 Have a pic of one of those 1450s. This one is the one with tranny problems, not the one I owned. It's an old DOT dozer. And a couple pics of the 4.
Easy to read on a laptop ! yes put a plate over where the hourmeter was. re D4E winch; never ever seen splines stripped and no idea HOW a person could do that. Is it worth removing shaft and getting splines built up on shaft and drum ?? the electric bolt trick will work, but we all know about 'murpys law'. . . Final drives and deadshafts are weak on 78A, but if no toothache in bottom of case, check deadshaft nuts tight. And adjust preload nut. and refill with oil. Outer sprocket seals are ok to do; but if its leaking inside sprocket its a case of pulling sprocket. Have got a 1965 78A
I am well versed in Cat Final Drive rebuilding...lol. I was on my dads ol' 69' Model D6C by the time I was 8. Im 48 now. Been through another 6C and 2 6D's. Cat has final drive problems on most anything without planet setup. This little 4 had the right side done right before I got it. I have a hydraulic puller that will remove those sprockets no problem. I wish they had segmented sprockets! I had never been in a transfer pump like that because we had never had a failure so I wasn't sure if the shaft could drift without the meter there. But I rebuilt it today and I see that it cant move. So I am going to make a cover tomorrow. Packed blade cylinders this evening and whoever was in there last had the pistons upside down and had that stack packing at the cylinder head backwards, no wonder they were pouring. You can grab that brake drum and spin it on the shaft. I haven't taken the nut off yet, but with the nut off it would just fall off. Machine shops are a thing of the past around here. The last ol' guy that had a shop that could do about anything got Alzheimers. Thats a good looking 4. I am going to altar my igloo cab to something similar to that.
Never heard of an 8 way blade before?
1450B and 1550 had it, and some 1150s with external C. Its just a set up where both tilt cylinders have long travel in the same direction, or opposite each other so you can roll your blade top forward and back. Case called it 8 way. I will try to locate a pic. I owned that dozer before the digital age. I have had multiple D6C and D Cats and a D6N. I would put a 1450B up against them anyday as far as yards moved. D6D 7 roller is heavier but 1450 moves so much faster and pulls both tracks in a turn without being hydrostatic. I had a 7 roller 6D with brand new U/C when I had the 1450B, and side by side with blades maxed out the Case would run away from the Cat all day long. And the 1450 blade was about 10 inches wider, and U/C was about shot. But, parts availability was getting bad 20 years ago.
I haven't dug up a pic of my 1450 I had yet, but this is a sale add pic of what they called power 8 way. Its pretty nice to have an external C frame with all motions powered. The tilt cylinders will both go the same way if you want. That allows you to cup the blade back and forth giving you your other 2 motions. Its nice when you are in inconsistent dirt, or you go from deep cut to fine blading. But it sucks when those tilt cylunders start bypassing. And it's a lot of hoses to tear off when stumping or clearing.
That is different and not too common.
Yes you are correct. I have only seen it on Case 1450B, 1550, and maybe one or two 1150s that had a ten foot blade with external C. A lot of the 1550s had it, but they were hydrostatic, and Case wasn't as good at it as Deere. They could be good or be a nightmare. I have had opportunities to own 1550s cheap and I have passed on them all. The 1450 is much more dependable. Due to all the cylinders and stuff the 1450B and 1550 with 8 way had a blade near 13' wide. I think mine was 12' 10". They don't stump worth a crap, because everything to do with the blade is so far from the tractor. But they were great at moving dirt. Pound for pound nothing I have ever had would stump with my D6M. It will outstump a 230 excavator all day long, but thats because the blade is so strong and close in to the tractor. I found a couple of pics of my ol' 1450 I had, and the two 9020B Case hoes that I had. And a pic or two of my 6m.