On my Cat D4D dozer, Ser #78A5667, new to me since last Oct., the left hand track appears to be at the end of it's adjustment when putting grease in the hyd adjuster. I am thinking it is time to take one link out & get some more adjustment out of it. I had a look at the chains & cannot seem to find an apparent master link. In the old days when I ran dozers, there was either one track pin on each side of the tractor with a dimple in it, or a sawtooth master link where the extra long pad bolts held things together. On this one a quick inspections seems to indicate every pin having a dimple in the centre. I am wondering if these may be SALT chains? Can anyone advise me on how to locate the master (if it is unique) & how to go about removing one link & putting things back together if this is the correct way to tackle this problem? Thanks, Metalman
She's a beauty! Not likely SALT, if it is, there's about a 3/8" or so hole in one end of each pin with a rubber plug in it. That's how they put the lube in the joint. Usually all on the same side so you'll see them on the outside of one track or the other. My memory is vague but it seems to me that one or two of the aftermarket track makers had those dimples in their pins, they were center marks from the machining. If you're going to have a mechanic with a pin press come out, it really doesn't matter. Push two pins in a row out, cut through the bushing of the link you want to remove and the two link bars will come off the next bushing. One new master pin kit, grind the old bushing down flush so the new spacers will go in, reassemble. If you're doing it with a torch and a welder, it's a bit more work. Cheers, Lanway
Ok thanks Lanway, I will have a closer look to see if they have the rubber plugs in the pin ends or not....... likely not. If not the SALT style, is it necessary to find the master pin, or is any one a candidate to separate? If they all have the pin dimples in them, is the master pin apparent to identify in any way? I will likely try with the torch & sledge hammer, rather than call someone in.
Cherry D4, I have its sister 40A 3638 1962,
It sure isn't handy but you can use a hacksaw blade to fish between the links to find the master with the short bushing.
Ah, now there's a trick I hadn't thought of... a lot handier than trying to look at each link with a flashlight! Of course if they're old enough, they'll all be short bushings and links with no counterbores... I have seen some!
Metalman are the track adjusters leaking,track coming loose in photos look a bit tight eg over adjusted
I think u got the wrong end of the stick mate; I think your track adjusters are leaking [common problem on D4Ds; ive got a sister too 78A4848] If the pins and bushes were gone your pitch over 5 pins should be out to 27 1/2 inchs or more [100% worn]; AND your sprocket tips would be like razor blades or worn round. Yours look square like they should be in the pics, which is why im saying track adjusters. Seals go and they also get pitted in the inside bore which stuffs the seals. Is classic cat or aftermarket cylinders available cheap to replace them; and do seals as well.
D6MERV if those track where any tita you be playing music on them, run a stringe line across the top and check the sage same oneon here have the spec ?
sometimes you can adjust the tracks so they seem tight, but if the adjuster seals are damaged they will soon slacken off during work. Measure the gap between the end of the spring and the flange on the adjuster seal; this is the distance the cylinder has extended. The maximum length it can come out is 5 and 1/8 inchs. After that it won,t seal and you have to replace pins and bushes or try to remove a link. To check track adjuster seals put a drawbar pin etc in top of sprocket between chain and back up this compresses the spring and puts maximum load on the seals doing so. then release by driving forward. Chain should still be tight; if suddenly gone loose then seals are blown. Also take covers off the spring and visually check condition of spring. Having broken coils in the spring is also another common D4D fault, and spring becomes weak and compresses too easy. But that's another more dangerous affair to fix. The sprockets in the OP machine didn,t look that bad, but a better pic would confirm there condition. I ran mine till they were absolutely rooted, bushings almost broken [some were] and just kept building up sprockets in place with me welder to finish its job, towing a roller then replaced the lot with a good 2nd hand digger chain [still 6.75 pitch] with new pins and bushes and new sprockets. I,m just struggling to see how you could run out of adjustment; but the sprockets still look good UNLESS its got a chain on it with a extra link ???? Was a option on D4D for a larger front idler for dozer work, dunno whether they had a extra link for this or not.??? Mine has and am pretty sure [hope ???] its 35 links plus the master could be 34 plus master. Old Magnet might have some more info; id have to hunt it up in my parts book; maybe tonight; gotta go work now Cheers; pic of mine.
Thanks for the help on this guys.......update.....I had tried a few weeks back to put grease in the left track & seemed to hit the end of the adjustment & it would not go any further, so I assumed it was at the end of adjustment. Well, late last week when greasing the unit I pulled the cover off & tried again.....this time it moved for me, so not sure what the problem was, however it seems ok now. Metalman
Standard chain is 35 link. With large diameter front idler 36 link. Non-oscillating frame 37 link
Thanks, I will count them. Know how to tell if it is a large diam idler or standard?
Will check the pitch on em & see where they are at. What year is your tractor? Thanks, Metalman
You have the large diameter front idler, standard size are spoked. Part number is a 1M8867, 24-1/4 inch O.D.
What is the reason for 2 idler sizes?
Standard idler is for ag tractors used primarily for pulling implements. Dozers use the larger idler to help keep the tractor from standing on its toes.
Hi Can someone explain to me oscillating frame?
Nice classic CAT iron. A D4D was a serious consideration when i was searching for a dozer for the farm. However i settled on a D4H II ...still like the classic lines of the D thou.