Hello everyone have not been on here in while. I am looking at a d4d to purchase , moves forward and backwards,cranks good blade rise and lowers. but she will not turn brakes also seem to be working . don't know a lot about dozers . but the pins look like they need turning what does this involve. owner said it would steering to the right when it was parked about a year ago. steering to the left was iffy at the time it was parked. any help or advise would helpful. also what would this machine weight, I have seen a lot of info ranging from 10,000 to18000 pounds. I know it weight more than 10.000 pounds wondering if I could haul it with my international 4300 with right trailer, it also has air brakes. thanks
If the pins you are referring to are the track pins then turning the pins and bushes is a job that requires specialised tooling. Dealers are usually the only ones that have it. To get an idea of what it would cost ask your local dealer service department.
Here is the info found on cab plate d4d 87r p735 3a 3776 3304 48v11658
I think the Serial Number should read 87R 0735 (rather than P735). That would make it a January 1975 machine manufactured in France. The range of Serial Numbers for the 87R prefix is only from 0001 to 1045, so 0735 makes sense. Regarding the weight, somewhere around 13,000 pounds according to the Cat Performance Handbook.
Thanks for the info , would that weight include Rops and blade. Also any thought on steering issue.
The info about what is included in the weight is sketchy. I would say off the top of my head for that age of a machine that the blade would be included but not necessarily the ROPS because an open top would be the standard setup. Can't help more than that. Regarding the steering issue that's not really my area of experience but is the tractor pedal or lever steering..? At best the issue could be nothing more than the external control linkages require adjustment and/oir lubrication, at worst it could be that the brakes require overhaul, or anything in between. I would say that if the condition of the tracks is as you say in your OP then that would be the highest dollar item that the tractor requires. I suggest that before going deep into the brake issue you should find out first what it would cost to put the undercarriage straight. That cost may be the deal breaker.
To be honest with I,m not a dozer man yet I do own a backhpe .but the machine had two lever between your and two brake pedals, and two smaller pedal connected by a common rod. I assume this was a declaratory, the owner didn,t know much any about dozers than I . If anyone could give me a ball figure on the uc , I would appreciate it . The machine runs good and do not appear beat up,I think it would worth putting some money into. Considering what he want for it and the prices se are asking for similar machines.
Do you have any photos of the machine..? If not can you get some showing a) the steering and brake controls and b) the undercarriage i.e. track links, bushings, sprockets, rollers, & idlers. I'm sure someone will be able to express an opinion.
7R series tractor is a power shift LGP job, standard type controls with peddles for brakes and draw levers for steering clutches, as already said French built with very low build total with the 3304 engine under the hood, they are a nice little bit of kit that is not often seen now. tctractors
What txt reactor posted is correct,when I went to look at it I tried to turn by pulling on lever but neither lever did not to have very much travel . When to make a turn it simply stopped. I assumes it turns by pulling lever and pressing brake pedal. I think the steering issue could be resolved reasonably but the cost of uc could be pricey.
I'm pretty certain that 13,000 lbs doesn't include the blade. At a certain point, Cat started including a dozer blade in the basic weight, and I think it was between the D4 d and e. I know my D4E with "4A" blade and open Rops is just over 20,000.
That makes sense. The D4D is shown in the Performance Handbook as around 13,000 pounds then the D4E jumps to 18,500 pounds. As the ROPS was not standard on either model that would pretty much account for the rest. So based on that the D4D with blade and ROPS is going to be somewhere around the 20,000 pound mark.
On and I forgot to mention it is lpg. Back to the steering ? How much travel should lever have they only seem to move 6 inchs and movement seems stiff as opposed to springing like a clutch lever should. From what I have read I am guessing the clutch pack is rusted together. How trouble is to pull the clutch pack,I have A TLB for heavy lifting.
I think you first need to be pulling up the floor plates and cleaning/lubricating all the linkages from both the steering clutch levers and also at the same time for the brake pedals while you're in there. You may well find something external is worn as soon as you start looking - obviously that would need to be replaced. Possibly the clutch packs might be stuck together internally but personally I would start on the outside first. Who knows, you might find the problem. As a suggestion send a PM to a member on here who goes by the name of Old Magnet. He has lots of information on this type of tractor and may be able to come up with some manuals or adjustment procedures for both clutches and brakes to help you.
That sounds like a good plan, thank you for the advise and info. Also i am interest in the comparison between the catd4d and a case 850d. I know the 850d is more modern with a 6 way blade. But would like to push capability.
To begin with I can't find that a 87R s/n unit exists. There is a 7R LGP machine that is more likely to be the 1975 unit being referred to. Power shift, 48V engine produced in France, total of 1045 units built. Dry weight 16,650 lbs without blade or ROPS. Steering is all manual lever and brake. Lever freeplay should be 2.5 to 3.5 inches measured at top of lever. If machine stops when you pull one lever that's not a good sign. Cross shaft bearing play will allow the normally driving clutch to slip. With undercarriage required (est anywhere from $7K to $12K) and major steering clutch work you'll have much more $ in the machine than it is worth.
Pulled the trigger on the d4d,will be picking it up Saturday. Will have lots of question,the first would be there appears to be a hydraulic pump on the left front of engine, it has a cap on it but no dipstick. It appears empty or low, what is the recommended hydraulic fluid . Thxs
Pulled the trigger on the d4d,will be picking it up Saturday. Will have lots of question,the first would be there appears to be a hydraulic pump on the left front of engine, it has a cap on it but no dipstick. It appears empty or low, what is the recommended hydraulic fluid . Thxs
Pump on the left front is for the blade hydraulics but that's not where you fill it. Are you sure your not looking at the engine fill tube.
Post photos showing what you're talking about, just to be sure....
Sorry for the lousy picture, SIS leaves some images rather poor. Anyhow in the above picture is the circled area where you are talking? That is the engine oil filler in front of that pump.
Thanks all for the info,where do I check hydraulic fluid and is standard hydraulic fluid such as 303 recomended. Also where is the best sourse for owners and repair manuals.
I have had good luck finding service and parts manuals on Ebay. Regards, Clark
That unit should have a dash mounted tank. Fill pipe sticks up through the hood. Recommended Hydraulic fluid is SAE10W. Holds about 8.5 gallons. Fill until you see oil in the sight gage.
Thanks OM now that you mention it I remember the sight glass. Back to the steering issue,has anyone ever tried soaking the clutch pack with PB blaster,I would think as common as this problem seems to be some one has tried it. OM said free play on clutch lever should be around 3 inches,that's about all either one will move. Haven't had time to check it out as the dozer is about 50 miles away.
Clutch packs have been soaked with just about any fluid you can imagine. May or may not be your problem. The steering clutch linkage involves needle bearing pivots that freeze up from condensation/rust and there is no way to lube them. See if you can get the linkage movement verified first.
Regarding manuals - this would be my first stop for genuine Cat manuals. eBay sellers realised long ago what genuine manuals sell for and the bargains disappeared overnight ..... https://servicemanualpro.com/
Will do. Thx again
1968 d4d Hey bluetick, I'm not sure if this will work for you but, I have a 1968 D4D, it sat in the woods for 16 years before me getting a hold of it. " it fired up on 16yr old diesel fuel and the filters were all that old also" I had the same problem with steering, what I did was remove the little square metal plates on the back of the machine "you can see them in the pic" and filled the cases with a mix of transmission fluid and diesel, also sprayed PB Blaster in the compartments for 3 weeks every night before I filled with my mix of trans fluid and diesel fuel. I then took rachet straps and tied the steering levers back as tight as I could and worked the machine with the levers held back, you have to try to push piles of dirt, don't put it against a tree and try to push. Finally the levers broke free and I had steering back. I had a problem with slobbering also "oil coming out the exhaust pipe" common on engines that haven't ran for years I think, working the machine really hard and getting the cylinders nice and hot fixed that issue. Best of luck to you. Here is a pic of mine, this is where it was sitting in the woods for 16 yrs Danny
Thanks Dapperdan 16 for that bit of info,my dozer has not sit as long as yours so may be it won't take quiet as much effort to free it,if that is the problem.
Finally got my dozed home with steering issue,i think the clutch pack is okay the problem seems to be frozen rusty linkage. I was able to take a pry bar and move the clutch fork threw through the rear access panels. I have remove access panels under the seat and have soaked linkage. But still stuck any one have any idea how to speed the process. F F ,
There is no real shortcut unfortunately. Usually the best results come from a complete disassembly, thorough clean, lubrication, and finally readjustment of the linkage. Now you are feeling happier that the clutch pack is OK ($$) why not expend a little effort on the external linkage and get it right..?
NIGE can that be done without pulling the fuel tank and pulling the top clutch cover off.
You can access some of the pivot points with the steering clutch adjustment cover off but not the lower pivot bearings. If they are all rusted up the transmission top cover will need to be removed for access.
Thank OM I have remove the access plate below the seat and and at the back of the dozer. Have soak everything with PB blaster, I guess I will give it a few days to soak, if nothing frees up I will remove tranission cover, are there any tricks to its removal.