I am getting ready to replace the breaks in my D4E 27X584 with a manual transmission, I see in the Cat service manual that the bolts holding the rear frame brace, and in my case the D4D winch, are the be loosened 1/4 inch, and pulled back, can the break job be accomplished without completely removing the winch from the Cat? And any tips, and tricks, for this job will be greatly appreciated!
Not sure what you have there but it normally takes a Hyster D4E or D4F winch to mount up to the D4E tractor. The winch does not normally need to be removed to pull the cross shaft/steering clutch assembly to change the brakes. Are you sure those non-rops rear fender supports are there? Seems they would interfere with the winch mounting.
I have a cross shaft, clutches, drums and brakes if you're interested. Same machine, just a little bit newer.
Thank you gentlemen. I am well into the job now, but have ran into a problem. I am at the point of removing the pins that holds the steering clutch control rod end to the bell crank so it will clear the clutch yoke, the SM says to insert a 3/8" bolt and "remove the pin". But that pin does not want to be removed, is it pressed into the bellcrank? I can not see what keeps it in place except the cap screw, looks like it should come up out of there fairly easy once aligned with the removal hole. I have applied quite a bit of up pressure to no avail. More pressure, or a bigger hammer, and try to free it down first? Any ideas? OM for future reference, the winch is a D4D on the D4E, they modified the top plate on the winch where the control cables access, and mounted the cables up a notch by welding on a nut to the winch housing, raising the height of the cable access point into the winch so they clear the back of the cat. The D4D winch has the same bolt pattern, but is a little shorter than the later winches. It works nicely, I can add some pictures if requested. You were right I did not have to remove or loosen the winch, I was able to back the top two studs out of the cat, and remove the spacers to clear the steering clutch cover.
There is a 12pt 3/8 bolt holding the pin in from underneath. 3/8 spanner with a piece of string attached so you don't lose it from underneath, and a large screwdriver in the slot in the pin to undo it. Measure clutch pack thicknesses and check out all bearings. Advisable to replace pinion seals while you are in there too. Make sure you get the preload and backlash on the bevel gear correct upon assembly. You don't want to go delving in there again any time soon.
OM for future reference, the winch is a D4D on the D4E, they modified the top plate on the winch where the control cables access, and mounted the cables up a notch by welding on a nut to the winch housing, raising the height of the cable access point into the winch so they clear the back of the cat. The D4D winch has the same bolt pattern, but is a little shorter than the later winches. It works nicely, I can add some pictures if requested. You were right I did not have to remove or loosen the winch, I was able to back the top two studs out of the cat, and remove the spacers to clear the steering clutch cover.[/QUOTE] I would appreciate any pictures you have of the D4D to D4E conversion for my Winch file. Here's a picture of what you would have to overcome as shown by the dual pattern D4E winch.
THANK YOU Glum! Saved me a lot frustration by pointing that little 12 point bolt out. Cat neglected to mention it in my SM, and parts book does not show it in the schematic, only references it with the pin. Now that I know where it is the parts book makes sense.
I would appreciate any pictures you have of the D4D to D4E conversion for my Winch file. Here's a picture of what you would have to overcome as shown by the dual pattern D4E winch. View attachment 207887 [/QUOTE] The bolt pattern is the same, the only difference I see is the entry holes for the control cables. The D4D cable entries are vertical, and the D4E holes are horizontal. The height of the steering clutch housing on the D4E Cat blocks the lower hole on the D4D winch, so some one got inventive and welded a nut to the top of the winch, and modified the cover plate.
Back to it, I am in the process of putting the clutch/brake assembly back into the D4E 27X, and have hit a snag. The bevel gear and pinion do not want to mesh in and allow the assembly and bearing cages to drop down into the housing. What am I missing here, the pivots on the clutch yokes are in position but have not quite made contact, and the notches in the bearing cages are up? The pinion gear is moving with the bevel gear, but at a point wants to runs up on top of the bevel gear teeth, keeping the assembly from moving forward enough to drop in.
Shouldn't be that much of a fight. Are the yokes preventing it from dropping in place? Not sure this would affect it but are you aware there was a correction issued for the installation of the steering clutch bearings. Illustrations on page 83 and 84 in the service manual are incorrect.
Are the nuts for setting bearing preload and pinion backlash backed off enough? Sometines takes a bit of wiggling and cussing. This may sound stupid, but make sure your bevel gear is on the correct side of the pinion.
Thanks for the pictures of the D4D winch on the D4E. Looks to me like the upper mounting bolts were not utilized. Am I seeing correctly?
Glum. Thank You! I am closer, the preload nut on the bevel gear side is in a pretty tight space, a fine adjustment to get it free and not back it off the race. I didn't remove the bevel gear from the shaft, so couldn't get that wrong, plus took photos just to augment my memory. The wiggling and especially a lot of cussing have helped too.
Old Magnet. I had removed the upper bolts to get the clutch cover off before I took the photos, there are studs, and a spacer between the winch and cover.