When turning right the more you pull finger tip control it smoothly turns, but pulling left control the track locks at once. Unlike the controlled right turn, left turn is like a light switch either on or off. Any firmilar with finger tip control?
Will the two FTC's swap easily (or even swap the harnesses that connect to them) so that you can see if the problem moves with the control or stays on the same side.? The Part Number of the control was updated a while ago. You may have the older less-reliable one.
Under the floorboard, I did switch the wires on the two valves located on the left hand side. The problem wasn’t helped. But I didn’t switch the two FTC at the armrest so I cannot answer that totally. So you are saying the problem sometimes happens in the finger control itself and it may not be the valves or the steering disks?
Wasn’t there a recall on a lot of the early FTC machines for oil impregnating wiring harnesses inside the tranny Nige? Maybe that was only the M series.
I’ve run about a dozen of these over the years ,never had one steer the way it should.
This machine started acting this way about halfway though a average shift. Up till this I was pleased with the how well it did work. Now it has to be idled down to keep from being hard on tractor when touching left FTC.
We replace/rebuild FTCs every time a tractor is overhauled. I would say that it would be a good idea to start with the simple stuff first and prove whether the FTC is good or not.
Thank you. Checking those next.
The next thing to look at after eliminating the FTCs would be are there any Active Diagnostic Codes (SERV CODE icon on RH side lit) showing on the Monitor.?
Had a brake pedal position sensor on a D6M that would go to 10 percent just fine then toss you on the hood. It didn't throw a code, but you could bring up a graph with the click box tool and see it happen. I'm sure a quick check with ET would be the cheaper route before throwing parts at it.
A few weeks ago when this problem started i contacted dealership and they sent out a field tech. The first thing he did was plug in his laptop. Then he went under floor in cab to check the 2 valves on left/problem side. I held flashlight while he swapped connectors on them. This didn't change anything, same problem. He fooled with laptop somemore and checked old bulletins from other techs i guess. His final diagnosis was the clutch disk themselves where bad and sent a bill. Yesterday i cut track and pulled that finaldrive. The disk and plates look new no problem there that I see. Thats when I posted asking you guys for help.
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The service tech i almost positive would had found any active codes when he plugged in laptop. Like I mentioned i helped switch the 2 connectors on one side but he did not swap them at the FTC to see if problem moved.
Aah, now we get the rest of the story... The CAT guy is mostly full of it. Did he actually swap the connectors from left to right? Basically reverse the steering? Those clutches and brakes use oil pressure to release them. To make a turn the clutch has to be pressurized and the brake has to be de-pressurized. If it pulls straight ahead I doubt the plates are at fault. The guy didn't do any pressure checks?
No pressure's were checked, the solenodes on the left side he did switch connectors with each other. But did not switch at FTC's to check if problem moved to right side. Like I said the disk, plates and seals looks fine on this final drive.
Has anyone done a brake touch up calibration yet? The ecm can be calibrated so that it knows when the brake starts to apply . It is done automatically and can usually be done through the monitor. Your Cat tech should have done it while he was there.
i have not done the calibration you mentioned. This is why i went with getting Cat to come to jobsite to diagnose everything about electronic problems and trouble shoot. After he spent 3 hours his diagnosis was worn disk. I assumed every other possibility had been eliminated by that diagnosis. I haven't needed a service tech to come out in 9 years so I may have expected to much.
Comparisons with drawing blood from a stone come to mind............ Now where the ***k do we start.? First up, have you reassembled the clutch/brake that you disassembled.? In other words is the machine all in one piece.? My 2c FWIW. 1. Swap the FTC electrical connections at the armrest and see if the problem switches sides. If it does, replace/repair the errant FTC (or maybe skip to Step 3 and try setting the brake touchup before condemning the FTC) 2. If the problem doesn't switch sides by swapping connections on the FTC, use the Monitor to look for Codes. If there are codes, troubleshoot the problem. 3. If no Codes, do the brake touch-up calibration suggested by Mobiltech. That will need a Click Box (or at least a McGiver'd version of one) To the OP. Do you know how to use the Monitor Panel to look for Codes.? At least whether or not the SERV CODE icon is lit up when the machine is running.? It will light up when you turn the key on but should go out after a few sceonds. Nobody's asked yet, but what is the Serial Number of the tractor.?
Break touch up calabration from a different service branch solved problem. Field tech took less than hour. It pays to get second opinion and come here to narrow down issues. Thanks guys!
I hope you haven't waited 4 years to get it fixed!