How do I test a Proportional solenoid on this machine cfn01044 ?
Which solenoids exactly are you wanting to test.?
Left drive motor fault code 272
This machine is pulling to the right got all the codes 272,246,141,244 I replaced the park brake switch and I'm in the process of checking out the speed sensor and engine speed sensor the park brake does release but the light on the dash never comes on.
OK, that means there is an electronic/electrical failure in the system. The problem with the way fault codes are accessed on your machine is that potentially there can be multiple Failure modes for the same component. This is the case with the Left Motor Solenoid valve, there are 3 possibilities, FMI03, FMI05, or FMI06. Attached are the troubleshooting procedures for all three. A large number of the steps you will find are common to all of them, so doing the troubleshooting shouldn't be hard whatever is the problem.
Would an electrical schematic be of any use to you.?
Do you have a schematic of the J1 and J2 plugs ?
It's all on the complete electrical schematic. Check your message inbox.
You should find the Pin Numbers moulded into the back side (outside) of each connector if you look closely. Use a combination of those numbers, the illustrations below, and the wire colours from the schematic and it will get you where you need to be. 147-1446 Connector (J1) 160-7690 Connector (J2) Note that the only difference between the two Part Numbers is the location of the alignment tabs to engage into the ECM. This prevents the two connectors being inadvertently swapped.
Nige are you still out there? Im still working on my CAT00D4GECFN01044 still pulling to the right did my return test last night on left track sensor wires the return wires check and ohm out good and good voltage. Moved up to J1and J2 got stung by a wasp on the face and quit lol. The proportional solenoid has a leak around it while running is there a o ring in there that causes this leak and how do I replace it without loosing all the fluid ?
Ref #5 on the attached.? How to replace it without losing lots of fluid, not sure. You may have to drain the tank.
Thanks do you think this could be my tracking to the right problem ?
Maybe, maybe not. Either way it needs fixing if only to eliminate it as a possible problem.
Thanks
You think if a person pulled vacuum on the tank it would let you pull the solenoid or speed sensor without leaking ?
I have gotten away with that technique, but I was ready and didn't tarry.
If you are going into the unknown with what is behind the solenoid, even having seen the parts diagram beforehand, nothing can prepare you for what chaos might break loose when you remove the part even with a vacuum in the tank. I would suggest to drain the tank, If you want to re-use the oil simply drain it into a clean container.
I pulled a vacuum, changing a bad Firematic valve on a heating oil tank. It had about 200 gallons and nobody wanted to drain it. Was working great, until the shop vac overheated and shut off. Went pretty quickly after that.
Ok Chaos ensued when I removed the solenoid I believe it was installed upside down does anyone have the parts diagram for the small O rings that go between the solenoid and Hydro motor there was only one of them left and seems like this will be a bitch to reassemble.
Is there 4 small o rings on the face of the solenoid?
Attached the details of the head where the solenoid control valve mounts as well as the motor.
This is the face of my solenoid I’m not sure it’s the same as the schematic you sent me do you mind looking at it ?
Can you take a photo of the entire component where that solenoid mounts from further away please. Also is there a plate on the component with a Part Number on it.?
I have seen nothing on this sealing surface there is a large o ring that goes on the solenoid body but there is also some small o rings on the face of this plunger mechanism for lack of a better term they seal around four small holes that match up to the hydraulic motor. This is what I am looking for
Looks like the motor part number is 169-2976
So we are talking apout the same thing. Attached the complete disassembly procedure for the motor. Obviously you won't need all of it but some parts may be useful. If you look at the parts breakdown of the 199-1090 Head that I posted earlier I think the four O-Rings you are asking about are Ref # 3 & 4. Note there are two of each according to the parts list. Also note that #5 & 6 are not the same so do not get them mixed up. A
Guys what do you think about using some grease to hold this proportional solenoid together when I reinstall it with three springs and a few other parts it wants to fall apart when I insert it because it is laying on its side
Hey guys what do you think about putting this proportional solenoid valve assembly back in without removing the hydro motor head by packing it full of grease to hold all the springs together ? It looks impossible without pulling the head because it won't stay together on it's side.
I don't see any reason why not. The hydraulic oil should flush it out once the machine gets up to temperature.
I may try it. I'd save a lot of work if it works. If it don't I start over and drain tank and all over again.
Well it worked I globbed the grease on and put it in the freezer got it stable and got it installed. It fixed my leak but it did not fix my pulling to the right real bad non stop circles. It's time to call CAT. Thanks for the help this one is over my head.
Please be sure to come back with information of what the issue was when you finally get it fixed. It may help someone else in the future.
Dozer D4g CFN01044 left track still outrunning the right after troubleshooting electrical. Trying calibration from laptop it will not pass the first test which is straight travel. Thinking I may have a hydraulic issue Does anyone have the test procedure for the pumps and motors ?
No codes at this time
Have you changed the hydraulic system filter element(s) recently and cut the old one open for inspection to check for debris.? TBH I would suggest to do that first. Once you have done that, try the attached pressure tests as a first step. See what results you get.