About to dive into a failed steering clutch on this dozer. It has a ripper on it and I'm wondering if I should remove it before starting the clutch work for easier access. If I do, is it easier to pull the ripper off in parts, or as a single unit by pulling the pivot pins and remove it as a unit? I have a large backhoe with forks so I should be able to move it as a unit without issue. Also have a question regarding getting at the final drive. Does the track roller frame absolutely need to be removed to pull the final drive apart? There is a leak from the steering clutch output shaft into the final drive, which makes me suspect that the bearing/seal at the final drive end has failed and may require disassembly of the final drive on that side.
Would make it a lot easier with ripper off yes you have to remove track frame and will need a CAT press to pop sprocket off it will take 50 to 75 tons of pressure to remove the sprocket
Do you have a Service Manual.?
I'm aware of the special tooling requirement for removal of the sprocket as well the steering clutch hub. Been looking for the hydraulic cylinders and adapters for both for a few years with no luck. My plan is to get it to that point and then have the local CAT dealers service press the parts off and on for me if I cannot make the needed adapters for a reasonable price. Yes, I have a full set of original manuals. Not exactly great, but certainly better than nothing.
Good luck with Cat i have been waiting 2 months to get my sprocket hub pressed on.
Yea, it occurred to me that CAT might not like the fact that I did most of the work and stiff me. Guess there's going to be some machining in my future to make the tooling if I need it. Saw a guy use Gr8 threaded rod to pull the sprocket, but that's not gonna work for installation.
The steering clutch to final drive duo cone seal comes out from the steering clutch compartment. With the clutch hub removed it looks something like this. You can see the seal there. That entire piece (pinion gear and hub with bearing) unbolts and can be removed. Pushing it back on looks something like this.
Thanks, most helpful. I take it that is a double acting hollow hydraulic cylinder and that the bolt in the end is threaded into a female-to-female adapter screwed onto the shaft end.
D5B order of disassembly for steering clutch pack work. Step #1 Buy a service manual. You will need it now for dis-assembly and then again when you are putting it back together again.
Much has already been said but here goes. I don't know why you want to remove the sprocket to repair a steering clutch. Perhaps it's because you don't have a manual yet. Why do you want to remove the ripper. On a machine as small as a D5B, you can work over the back of the bevel gear compartment if it's bare, but removing the ripper is a waste of time and energy. Clear the top of the bevel gear compartment. Remove the steering clutch covers. Pull the steering clutch assemblies. I'd go through the clutch covers, but that's just me. If you want to replace the duocone seal through which oil is passing into your final, pull the outboard flange and pinion. Your manual should specify a hollow ram puller with about 30T of capacity. You'll need a power pack of some sort as well, manual, air or electric powered. If you're going to replace one duocone, best to do them both. Both brakes, both clutches, both covers, and make sure the bevel gear shaft is within tolerance. When you close her up, you don't want to have to return for another 5000 hours.
Good answer Chap but you might need to upgrade the cylinder capacity some as they can hang together, I would think it a poor choice to only do the 1 side, on the common to find D5B Farm Agg Tractors with the fuel tank removed you can pull out the clutches using the big plugs in the main case to remove the drum bolts.
Thanks for the replies. I do have a full manual set, as I noted earlier. I asked about the track frame and opening the final drive in case there is damage to the gear inside (ie the bearing for the pinion failed and chewed up the mating gear in the final). Want to be sure the dozer is parked where I can get other heavy equipment to lift stuff as needed. As for removing the ripper, just a matter of convenience, since I need to break it's hydraulic lines anyway to remove the cab. The advice on potentially needing more than 30t to remove the flange is the sort of info I was looking for since I'm probably going to have to make that tooling. I do plan on checking the brake and clutch thickness on both sides while I'm there.
Sorry, I missed seeing that you have a service manual. Need to read the posts better.
So, I've finally sourced most of the special tooling to remove the steering clutch flanges, with one exception. The adapter, part number 5P9699 in the service manual. It looks to be a steel block with recessed holes in it to bolt to the flange and then allows the much wider hydraulic cylinder to be placed on top. It's shown as item number 4 in the picture labeled Adapter below. In the picture of the bare flange, you can see the two threaded pulling holes on the flange near the center. From what I gather, you use two 5/8 bolts to attach the 5P9699 adapter to the flange, then place the cylinder on top of it and use the long bolts and plate to press against the pinion shaft, which has an adapter threaded onto it to extend the end and protect the threads. I cannot find any specifications for the adapter 5P9699, and have had zero luck trying to find one. CAT doesn't even show it as a valid part number anymore. I can make one easy enough out of a chunk of bar stock, but I'd prefer to have it on hand before starting to pull the dozer apart. Can anyone provide the dimensions for this thing or have one they are willing to part with? Thanks.
It's shown as "discontinued" in the system. That in itself ought to be enough for your local Cat dealer to ask the factory to supply a drawing (or at least sufficient information) to be able to fabricate one. For sure the factory will still have a drawing in their archive somewhere despite the part being discontinued.
Thanks. I'll give that a try, but I imagine they will laugh at me if I ask them to provide a drawing / specs. Companies seem to be tight with providing "proprietary" information, no matter how useless it is to them at this point.
Ask to speak to the dealer Technical Communicator. Explain to him that the part is discontinued and there are apparently none out there in the market. Then ask if the factory can "provide sufficient information" in order to fabricate one. This might take the form of a redacted engineering drawing, or simply a sketch of some sort.
Not handy but looks like might be available from "down under" 5P9699 Parts For Sale | MachineryTrader.com 5P9699 Parts For Sale | MachineryTrader.com at MachineryTrader.com www.machinerytrader.com
Ferdinand if you struggle with this adapter I have 1 and would be happy to post the details, you only need a hollow cylinder that is single acting, double acting hollow cylinders are a waste of time as you will never need the pressure return it serves no benefit other than getting in the way, the track frames can be stripped out in less than a 1/2 hour once you have the track split, the D5B runs on 6.91" pitch chains that will near always be SALT and easy to pop open, the ripper can be left on and used as a handy walk way to save your back when leaning in, the oil bypass from the steering case can be caused by other issues not just a failed top pinion bearing, I have done plenty of D5B back ends as they seem to be common in the Farming industry and get plenty of hammer off the Farmers, you have the books but sometimes CAT make a Big Meal of something that can be done a lot easier, if I suggest something to help you it will be the Best Way but we all do things as we do, wishing you all the Luck with the job.
Thanks for both of the relies. I've got an email to the guy in Australia to see what he wants for the adapter and if he's willing to ship to the US. I have a 50 ton hollow cylinder that looks to be similar to what the manual shows. Actually found a brand new OEM CAT 6V3170 for $1k. Seems that in those flatter sizes they only come as double acting. Regarding the dimensions of the adapter, all I need is the overall thickness and length of the adapter and the spacing for the two inner bolt holes where the adapter bolts to the flange. I can infer the rest of it easily enough before taking stuff apart. The track chains are the split type. I'm hoping to leave that alone as the manual shows that you use a jack on the end of the track to rotate the clutch to get at all the bolts. Got this dozer from a farmer with the usual "fixes" on stuff. Most of which I've repaired properly, including the dreaded lip seal replacement on the hydraulic tank valves, which were probably the originals. What other possible source of oil intrusion is there into the final drive? I know that the pinion bearing support should be installed with a sealant around it. That and the seal around the pinion shaft itself is all that I can see as a possible source.
The cylinders come with spring return or double acting at near double the cost, you will never need ever double acting on this type of cylinder, the talk was possibly pulling down the f/ drives so jacking back and forward is not going to help you with this, I have said the manual tells you lots of things but you cannot beat the knowledge of 100's of back case rebuilds, have a look in Shop Talk on my efforts of just some of the Tractors I have pulled down.
I suspect that "adapter" is nothing but a guide to hold the pulling bolts in position while you assemble the cylinder. The photo shows the threaded pulling holes in the flange.
The adapter could be made easily as all you need is a bit of plate that has a hole for the pinion adapter and the 2 bolt holes in to bolt it to the flange then 4 threaded bolt holes to match the end press plate, in the picture I see it shows only 2 bolts but I tend to always use 4 bolts, these bolts are at a wider spacing than the 2 mounting bolts, on the earlier D5's that we have on the U.K. the pulling bolts for the flange are Metric thread.
I believe that the two threaded pulling holes on the flange are as close to the center as possible, and this places them too close together to be able to fit the hydraulic cylinder between them. So the adapter has recessed holes that hold shorter bolts which hold the adapter to flange. The outer edge of the adapter then has two wider spaced threaded holes that are far enough apart that the hydraulic cylinder fits between them, and these use much longer bolts. I surmised this by looking at the list of required special tools, which has one set of 2-1/4" long 5/8-11 bolts and another set of 5-1/5" long 5/8 bolts. If you look at the Adapter picture from the manual, it looks like there are 4 large unthreaded holes on it and then 2 threaded holes at the outer edge which hold that flat plate against the hydraulic cylinder. I suspect those large 4 holes are countersunk holes for the 5/8 bolts that attach it to the flange. If I can ever get a decent picture of the thing I'll know for sure.
So, I struck out on finding an adapter from the guy in Australia. The one that was posted at Machinery Trader. Long gone. If you could post the dimensions of the one you have that would make my life a lot easier as I can have it built before getting to it. I've not the center adapter and a 50 ton hydraulic cylinder in hand and the 5/8 bolts on order. All I need is the thickness, overall length and distance between the inner bolt holes where the adapter bolts to the flange. Thanks again for the help.
What is the part number you have on the centre adapter that screws on the pinion shaft it is stamped on it, I did have a look at my plates today as they were just handy, the plate that bolts to the flange is not countersunk, the 4 holes on the plate I was looking at were elongated an amount but I cannot be sure if it was me doing a slight mod? but I do have 2 of the plates so will look about for the other 1, the pinion adapter on the D5B has the thick bolt, the D4 -D5 early adapter has the thinner bolt.
The center adapter is PN 7M7237. Exterior OD is 2.2475" Large end is 1" 1/2-12 and smaller end is 1"-14 threads. The bolts that go through the flange adapter are listed as 5/8-11, as are the long bolts that go around the hydraulic cylinder. It would work without the bolts being countersunk, I just assumed they were, based on the hard to see picture in the service manual not showing a gap under the cylinder when it's installed.