I have a D5G (SN: 005GTFDW005XX) with multiple problems. I have had the machine for less than two years and my son has done most of the driving it pushing mesquite trees. The machine is at my ranch in So. Texas, 130 miles from home. I only get there about one full day per week to work on it. Two weeks ago when we started it up it had the "ACTION" light on and it would only move slow, #1 on the speed indicator and could not speed it up. I suspected rats had chewed on the wiring. I moved it to my barn/shop since it also has a hydraulic leak on the right side. After removing the cover plates over the hydraulic line to the angle cylinder and cleaning the dirt and debris off, I tried to start the engine to verify the leaking line among the three under the clamp. The key switch broke off... . So last week I installed a new key switch. Now when I turn the key I can hear the master relay click on and the lights and gages are alive and I can hear the starter solenoid click but no action from the starter motor. I can get a new starter for $177 (cheap enough). I suspect bad starter solenoid contacts but I wanted to be sure before I tackled the three nuts holding the starter on. So I got out my notes from this site and began troubleshooting the ECM. I get code 251 ( Speed Sensor, Left Track) and 272 (Proportional Solenoid, Left Track Motor). So I removed the cab floor plate and both side step plates. This is what I see under the left side step plate: You can see a two-conductor plug/socket with two brown(?) wires chewed off. There are also two brown(?) wires chewed off coming out of the U of the large cable. I can splice these wires back together but am not sure if it makes a difference which one is which since both wires are brown(?). I have since cleaned up these wires/cables and have stripped the wires ready to splice them together. The other side of the plug has a wire chewed on, but it still has continuity. Does it make a difference which one is which when I splice the two wires? What do these wires go to? I will go back next week and verify that the starter solenoid is getting power.
Can you see any numbers marked on the outside of the insulation on ANY of the wires in that area.? It doesn't have to be just the brown ones. Maybe in the green connector on the RH side.
I did not see any numbers on any wires. I looked where I could but was afraid if I cleaned the wires I would erase any numbers. I cleaned the plug/socket and did not see any id there.
Looking at the schematic it appears that generally most (but not all) brown wires are used for power supplies to the wipers. If you had a wire number from anything in that photo it would help.
I will go down next Wednesday and look at the wires again. I hate to peel the protective mesh off because of the rats but maybe I can come up with some other protection.
can you tell me where to look for the left speed sensor and the left proportional solenoid? and what do they look like?
Well, it is a long story but it looks like I will now have time to look at this again. I reconnected the two brown wires that had been rat chewed as shown in my photo in post #1. So now, I am only getting Diagnostic Code #264, Proportional Solenoid (Reverse Left Drive Pump). The red brake light and Action light are on, the engine starts and runs, hydraulics function correctly but the brake light stays on and of course the machine will not move. I can find no other chewed wires, but that does not mean there might be more.... BTW, I can find no numbers on any of the wires I have been working with. Can someone post the Troubleshooting procedure for this problem? Can someone tell me where to look for the Reverse Left Drive Pump Proportional Solenoid? I have the rear inspection plate off and can see what looks like a solenoid and also a sensor on a large block. If someone reading this knows of a competent Cat mechanic in South Texas (Dilley, Cotulla, Pearsall, Carrizo Springs, Crystal City, Uvalde) please let me know, the machine is near Big Wells.
The speed sensors are on each of the drive motors, if I remember correctly the left one is on the side of the motor you can see from the rear and the right sensor is on the inboard side of the right motor. The proportional solenoids for the pumps should be visible under the floor plate on the hydrostatic pumps. Proportional solenoids for the motors will be close to the speed sensors for the track motors. Post a photo of the track speed sensor and I can tell you if it’s been updated to the new style or not, if not there’s a couple other pieces you’ll need along with a pin out on the new connector you’ll have to install. All fairly easy work once you get the parts.
In case you end up changing speed sensor, here’s the info
Just addressing the solenoid question... Physically mounted on each pump. My memory tells me rear pump drives the right side ("R&R") but my memory has lied before. Easiest way to confirm is to unplug a solenoid or 4 (one at a time) and see which code it throws. Same part number on both pumps for all 4 solenoids...
I should also mention if any of these 4 solenoids are moved from their original locations or replaced a calibration is required... which you'll probably need a laptop with ET for.
I think it would be wise, just to make sure, that you put a brand new battery ( or one you know to have full voltage and amperage delivery ) on your dozer before doing a bunch of other work. Keep in mind that a voltage meter does NOT tell you if the battery has enough amps to turn over the starter. Everything you described about hearing the solenoid and relay connect but no starter action can be attributed to a weak battery, and many many people will tell you that various electrical gremlins all seem to go away with a new battery. Best of luck
There are three different faults that can cause the 264 Code relating to the left pump reverse steer solenoid. Diagnostic procedure for all three are attached.
Thanks for the reply Kyfarm. I failed to mention that the "no starter action" was caused by the wrong key switch that I had installed to replace the broken switch. I now have the correct switch installed and the engine starts normally. I am aware that low voltage can cause multiple problems with this machine but I dont think that is the case here but I will keep that in mind.
Nige, thank you so much, what you posted is what I was hoping for. As I mentioned in post #7, the only Code I am getting now is 264. I will go to the ranch next week to look at it again.
As I mentioned before, the method of pulling Codes using a piece of wire is very basic but it has limitations, this being one of those cases. 264 translates to CID 1704 which has 3 possible failure modes. You'll just have to test for all three. You do have the electrical schematic for the tractor, correct.? Also take careful note of Chrisso's point above that if you move any of those 4 solenoids you are in for re-calibration and that requires ET. Move them around for testing by all means but mark them carefully beforehand so that each one can be put back in its original location.
I have an electrical schematic. I am not sure it exactly corresponds to my machine serial no but I have been using it and it seems ok so far. I will check that next week when I am there. I have a D5G service manual on DVD. I had my son print each page of the schematic in color (12 pages I think) and then I taped them onto a large piece of cardboard. Makes it much easier to follow a wire than across multiple pages. I have about thrown in the towel on my ability to fix this thing and have tentatively scheduled a tech to meet me at the ranch next week. He has the ET software package. I just have too many other projects going to spend the time on this machine. Once again, thanks for your help!!!
Sometimes it saves a lot of frustration and hair pulling having someone experienced with the proper tools come out to help fix problems. It can cost a bunch but is worth it if gets the machine up and running in a timely manner.
Check your messages. YHM.
Nige, I have to say Thanks!!! once more. The schematic you sent is significantly different from the one I have been trying to use. I have asked my son to expand and print it in color.
Update: Ok, so I had someone familiar with Cat D5G come out to help troubleshoot with me. Before he got there, I took the inspection plates off. When I took the floor plate up, I saw there was a purple wire that someone had added over the years that had been chewed thru. I stripped the ends and tied it together and BINGO! all was good, no action light and everything worked. About that time the mechanic showed up and I let him splice that wire and two others and all was good to go. I think the purple wire went from the computer to the decelerator pedal. To discourage rats, over time I have put in dryer sheets that seemed to do no good. So now I have put in pieces of Irish Spring soap and splashed in some peppermint oil. Don't know if it will work, but the machine smells good!!
I've been told rodents don't like mothballs either.
I think peppermint oil helps but you have to keep spraying it for it to remain effective. There's also pouches that are supposed to help. Called Fresh Cab or Cab Fresh or Grandpa Gus's mouse pouches. Farm or RV stores carry them. Cab Fresh used to say to repel mice but had to remove that from their packaging in order for it come to Canada. It was because of 1 of the ingredients in it. I'm not sure if ingredient was removed or not. I've used peppermint oil and the pouches and sprayed the pouches with peppermint oil. Have also used no name/cheap peppermint tea bags and sprayed them with peppermint oil in my 5th wheel. Seems to help but have to respray about every 4 to 6 weeks or so.
OK, so I am back working on this machine again. The wiring problems of last year are resolved, all was working good until it developed a hydraulic leak. I dropped the belly pan and removed the leaking line and had it welded up. While I was doing this, I replaced the batteries an took the blade angle cylinder off to have it resealed. Now I want to replace one of the end bearings on this cylinder while it is off. Problem is, I don’t have the correct parts manual for this machine. I have a parts manual for a later D5G but the bearing I ordered from this manual does not fit. Any chance anyone can send me the correct parts manual for D5G sn:FDW005xx? Or even the correct pages (diagram and part no.s) for the blade angle cylinder?
Can't help with the Parts Manual apart from the information that the Cat Publication is SEBP3363. It covers all FDW-prefix machines. Regarding the blade angle cylinder there are two possible Part Numbers. With a complete Serial Number I could probably identify which one of the two it is.
The last three digits are: 562
According to the information I can see for that Serial Number the angling cylinder assembly is a 201-1056. Check the barrel close to the head, there may be a tag on it with the Part Number. The spherical bearing for that cylinder is a 4D-0298 and the snap rings (x2) to retain it are 1L-4775. The other option of angling cylinder I mentioned earlier uses a different Part Number of bearing - 9J-9812. The 4D-0298 bearing is 2.4375" O/D, the 9J-9812 is 2.8125" O/D.
The old bearing measures 2.44”. The cylinder has a tag with 1838459. And CHO 02. And 02 04. (Date mfg?) I ordered a bearing based on the parts manual I have and the bearing I got measures 2.795”. And that bearing apparently uses the clip rings whereas the one I need uses two pressed-in rings for retention. I am confused….
Ok, I am wrong. The cylinder is the”tilt” cylinder. Only one of those whereas there are two angle cyls? Yep, I am learning….
That confirms it. The tilt cylinder assy on your machine is 183-8459 according to the parts list. The spherical bearing for the barrel end (6A) is the same 4D-0298. The rings (6B) are 3Y-2768. Despite being different references the bearing & rings for the rod are the same two Part Numbers.
Thank you, thank you Nige! Any chance you can post a picture of the parts list for that page?
See attached.
I would do both ends of the cylinder since you have it off. It's like $100 for the bearing and the ring.
I ordered the correct bearings, two each, and rings for my machine and they were delivered yesterday. The bearing was $11.98 at https://www.agkits.com/caterpillar-spherical-bearing-4d0298.aspx . The rings are about $8 each at the same place. So for a little over $50 including shipping I have all I will need. Next week I will go to the ranch and install them and the cylinder. The "eye" of the rod end is wallowed out just enough that one ring does not press in tight. I plan to tack weld it in place. I also ordered the correct parts manual for my machine so maybe I will not have to ask for so much help here.... I do appreciate all the help you guys have given me. Thanks!!!
So now I need to replace/repair the right side track adjuster on this machine, D5G sn:FDW005xx. My current plan is to replace the yoke and the tube it slides into. The spring is good so will reuse that. Do I have to split the track? Is there enough room to slide the idler forward enough to get the yoke out without splitting the track? And, I assume I can use the nut on the shaft inside the spring to compress the spring, but doesn't that lock the tube in place? How do I get the tube out?
I would suggest that you do. The recoil spring does not have to be touched in order to disassemble the track adjuster. This is actually good because they should only be touched if absolutely necessary. Often referred to as Death Springs, so be careful. If you split the track and remove the front idler the Yoke Assembly #16 can be pulled right out of the tensioner cylinder to replace the seals without disturbing anything else. My question is why you think that both the Yoke and the tensioner cylinder require to be replaced.?
I am sure the yoke will need to be replaced, I have the shroud off the adjuster assembly and the exposed yoke shaft is very badly pitted. It is slightly cocked in the tube, therefore I want to replace the tube instead of hoping new seals and yoke would fix the problem. I want this to be a "one and done" project. I have split the track on my JD 555 track loader and do not want to have to do that on the D5 if there is any way around it.
photo of track adjuster
If you had posted that photo first your needs would have been a bit more obvious. In that case you have to pull the recoil spring & track adjuster out as an assembly but even then it will require splitting the tracks at the end of the procedure otherwise you will not have sufficent space. Attached the procedure. Your challenge after getting the assembly out of the machine is going to be the disassembly of the complete unit to get at the RH track adjuster cylinder #17. This will require the services of a pretty large press. You CANNOT de-tension the recoil spring after removal by unscrewing the retaining nut. Here's a question. Have you priced up parts yet.?
Nige, thanks for the reply and info. I did not post the photo in my original post because I only wanted two questions answered: Do I HAVE to split the track to remove/install the yoke? And how do I get the spring and tube out after compressing the spring. The info you posted answered the second question for sure. I did not see how to get the rear end of the spring out after it was compressed. I now see the compression nut will go thru the hole in the rear bracket after the spring is compressed slightly and the stops are removed. I thought the compression nut was behind the rear bracket. Dumb me, I know. I pressure washed it yesterday but did not think to look at the nut. And I have priced the yoke and tube and it looks like I can get both aftermarket parts, tube and yoke for less than $900 plus freight. And, I had already planned to take the spring and tube to Holt Cat in San Antonio to get them to compress the spring. The machine is 100 miles from San Antonio and the likely mobile mechanic(s) capable of splitting the track so I want to minimize the necessity for hiring that help. If I can get the assembly out, take the new parts plus old spring to Holt, then have someone out to split the track and install the assembly, I can get by with one service call instead of two. I can cut the yoke to get it out if it will not extend far enough to get past the idler with the track still intact. You see any flaws to this plan?
Potentially yes. 1. Refer to Step 8 "Seat nut (8) against plate (9)" . I think I can almost guarantee it won't be as easy as the procedure makes it sound. In all probability the nut (8) will be seized on the threads. Do you have oxy-acetylene equipment available, because you are probably going to need it. 2. I don't think there is enough space to remove the recoil spring/tensioner assembly WITHOUT splitting the tracks, even if you cut the yoke as you plan to do. Can you not split the tracks yourself and have someone come out and do the installation of the tensioner and re-connect the tracks at the same time.? All you need to split the tracks if you get creative with some timber cribbing under the appropriate grouser shoes is a 15/16" socket in 1" square drive, a breaker bar for same, and a decent length of pipe. You might need something around 400 ft lbs to break the bolts loose.
Yes I have oxy/acetylene torch, but I dont see how to use it other than to cut the yoke. Are you saying I may need to cut the tube? The track chain is not "alligator" type. I would need to drive a master pin out to split the track. Not something I want to do at my old age (83).
You may need oxy-acetylene to "persuade" the nut (8) to rotate so that it screws up tight against the plate (9). That nut has been on there for over 20 years, it will most likely be rusted solid. In the absence of information to the contrary I was assuming that it was an alligator master link. In that case you do what you have to do. I'm sorry I have no idea whether or not the tensioner assembly will pass the idler even with the yoke cut off. Be prepared for disappointment if the space available for removal proves to be insufficient.
What brand of rails are on this machine? They certainly look like SALT rails, don’t often see those on a dozer without alligator master jaws. Got any pictures of the master link?
I don't have any pictures of a master link of either kind. To be honest, I haven't looked for one. I sure hope you are right that there may be an alligator link. I will not be at the ranch again for a couple of weeks when I will check.
How do you know it’s not alligator jaw type chain for certain then? Just wondering.
Your tractor was originally built with alligator type master links on the tracks. Personally I have never come across even aftermarket undercarriage for a tractor of this generation (early 2000s) that doesn't have the same type of master link as OEM. So whether the U/C on your tractor is Cat or A N Other, like @ahart I strongly suspect that splitting the track will require no more than the removal of 4 bolts.
I sure hope you guys are right, it will make the job a lot easier. I will check next time I am at the ranch. My only other track machine does not have alligator link and I just assumed this one did not either. I just checked the parts manual and it does show an alligator master link.
Hopefully it has an alligator master link. Give the bolts a big smack with a hammer before trying to loosen them. They might need some heat too. Make sure to use anti-seize on the bolts when you put the track back together. It would be best to use new bolts and tighten them with the torque turn method. Cat has the torque turn specs. published in their undercarriage guide.
So I will update things as it stands now. Yes, there is an alligator link which I was able to split easily. In removing the yoke bolts, one bolt broke off leaving about 1/2" exposed. After welding on a nut and heating the block to soften the thread locker I was able to get the broken bolt out. I had already tightened the track using a short piece of pipe in the sprocket to compress the spring to get about three inches of clearance between the cylinder flanges and the stops.. The threads on the shaft thru the spring were boogered up so bad I was not able to turn the big nut more than about one turn. I took the nut off and slipped a pipe coupling on the shaft and replaced the nut. This held the spring compressed. The yoke came out easily and using an engine hoist I lifted the spring and cylinder out and into my truck. I had a local shop compress the spring and put it on the new cylinder. They also put the pipe coupling on the new shaft. When I asked why he put the pipe on, he just said "it was on the old one". Bummer. So I went ahead and have the entire adjuster assembly installed and tightened down. Now I just have to put the track back together and use it to compress the spring so I can take the nut and pipe coupling off the shaft. And, thanks again for all your help.