Hello friends, I have a D5G that was operating perfectly fine in the fall. It's set for about 2 months through the winter and now the tracking power is very sluggish. It almost acts like it's starving for oil. I changed the filters with no improvement, I also pulled the suction screen and that was clean. I cut open the filters to find them clean and no debris. I'm at a loss any help would be great! If this helps it tracks fine across flatland until it gets under a load and it falls on its face. If you hit the decel it will come back to life for a split second.
Welcome to the Forums TW! Glad to have you. When was the machine last calibrated with a Cat laptop? I have a D5G and from time to time they get out of calibration and act like you describe. Hitting the decel pedal under load and it reacts - had that happen one time and it was fixed during calibration. Not saying that's what's going on, just sharing experience. I'm no mechanic just a dirt mover so our mechanics here on board will have way more advice. Best of luck!
I believe is was done about 2 years ago maybe 3 when I needed to put a joystick in it? But I know it hasn't been done since. Unfortunately there is only 2 companies around here that have that software Cat being one of them and they are proud of that computer . But it's probably worth the phone call. Thank you!
A machine Serial Number would also help if it gets to the stage of going into diagnostics. Additionally, and I’m sure @CM1995 will back me up on this, the system voltage needs to be up around the 13.5V mark when the machine is running. So check belt tension and put a multimeter across the batteries and alternator to check whether what’s coming out of one is actually going into the other. At the same time it is probably well worth cleaning/re-tightening all the main pos & neg battery cable connections.
Hold up. We can do a fair bit of diagnostics without the need for a computer and ET. Let me dig out the procedure on how to access Diagnostic Codes and post it up. You can pull Codes yourself with nothing more complicated than a bent paperclip.
^^X2. TW you are in good hands with Nige. My suggestion would be to follow his advice.
See attached. The most important illustration is the one at the bottom of Page 1. If you have any questions after reading the document it please ask.
Great info Nige! I will follow the procedure when I get on site in the morning. I will also check voltage. We did put new batteries in it last fall and it does turn over well. But I'll bring a multimeter with me. Thank you very much!
Don’t forget to quote the machine Serial Number at some point.
Good morning Nige, the serial number is ARKG03182. Thanks again!
I tested the voltage it's right at 13.52 volts when running, I went to perform those tests but is the indicator light supposed to light up when you turn the key on? If so mine does not. So I may have a faulty bulb. According to the manual it says it should light up breifly
You must first disconnect the two halves of the harness Code connector then turn on the key switch
Looks like code 255? Forward neutral reverse sensor? It's only flashing that code could there be other ones?
Ok I stand corrected the active code I think is 256, stored codes are 255, 244,224?
There is a big difference between 255 (F-N-R postion sensor) ans 256 (steering position sensor). You need to be sure of which one you have otherwise we could end up diving down the wrong rabbit hole..... Unfortunately the system ain't that smart. It cannot tell the difference between Active and Logged (stored) Codes. So here's what you need to do: - 1. Go though the procedure of pulling all the Codes again, jumpering between Pins 1 & 2 after you have noted each one, to confirm what you have. Is it definitely 256, 255, 244, & 224.? 2. Refer to the diagram of the Harness Code connector on Page 3 of the attachment, especially the image on the RH side that shows the positioning of the jumper wire (or paperclip) between Pins 2 & 3 to "Erase" any particular Code. Let each Code flash its 3 -digit sequence once then instead of "incrementing" to the next Code by jumpering Pins 1 & 2 instead put the jumper between Pins 2 & 3 and watch what happens. a) If the same 3-digit Code continues to flash then the Code in question is Active. In this case you will need to jumper between Pins 1 & 2 to increment to the next Code. b) If a different Code starts to flash then the previous Code was Logged and you have succeeded in erasing it. c) Go through all the four Codes (maybe a couple of times) attempting to erase each one multiple times. Whatever list you are left with (hopefully shorter) are the currently Active Codes on the machine.