Hy gents, Got a D5H series II serial nr 1DD 06574, bought in an auction. Machine came with some hacks but everithing was solved by now except the trans strange behaviour. When cold it goes normally into gear, 1 st 2nd or 3rd , fwrd and reverse , works fine, after some heat up 30 mins or so starts failing engagement , expecially when shutling from FWD/ RWD , but once into gear goes 1st 2nd or 3rd, pushes fine, trans fluid checked and filters checked , strainer was clean of significant debris, mostly had steel dust in it. Brakes and directional clutches work fine to hitches in them. Its time to start digging for the cause, could u guys help-me out with this trouble shoting... i have a lot of mechanical knowledge , but not familiar with planetary transmissions, specially with mechanical control. Thanks
A question. What type & viscosity of oil are you using in the transmission.? Do you have at least two 600psi pressure gauges.? I would suggest to first set up all the adjustments on the external mechanical control linkage correctly. During this process you may well come across worn parts causing "slop" in the linkages. Any such problems that you find need to be put right before moving forward. See the attachment.
Nige, Mobil trans fluid W40, same spec as TDTOW40. I can get hold of 45 BAR gages, no problem. I should have done the linkages aleady, but there´s always something prior ...
Do you have a spec sheet.? I’ve never heard of a TDTO in 40 viscosity. It’s all either 30 or 50.
maybe its just SAE40... what on that table there. MOBIL trans fluid.
Sorry if I was not clear. I’m looking for Mobil’s technical data sheet containing the specifications of the actual oil you are using.
What has the oil to do with it? Its oil… it’s not overheating neither slipping… works good cold and bad when hot… quite confusing at least to me
You're new to this "diagnosis " thing aren't you...? This is how it works. Every point, no matter how apparently minor or even possibly unrelated, is eliminated one by one until it leads to the root cause of the problem. So can you please post a link to the manufacturer's spec sheet of the oil you are using so that we can move one.
Well Nige, Not new to mechanics... just never messed with a planetary transmission... and control "module" or valve body as it seems to be called. Just find it hard to have anything to do with the oil ... just that. Nevertheles the tech sheet is atached
I'm familar with that Mobil oil. Which viscosity are you using.?
SAE 50,
I thought that might be your reply. To be honest a number of years ago I would have thought the same - thicker oil, has to be better in high stress situations, correct.? Well that was until I got into doing a lot of datalogging work on powershift planetary transmissions. The difference in clutch engagement time between an SAE30 oil and an SAE50 is more than significant. We actually managed to increase transmission clutch life by changing from SAE50 to SAE30 TO-4 oil from the same supplier. For the climate where you are a Mobiltrans HD SAE30 oil would be my recommendation. Even in tropical climates it still works, and I'm sure your climate isn't anywhere near that hot. The oil may be something totally unrelated to your issue, but it's a rabbit hole worth jumping into even if it only sets you thinking about it.
OK, so stepping back a few posts you need to get the transmission control linkage sorted and adjusted as per what I posted above before going any further. The next step I would suggest is to get pressure gauges on a) the pump pressure test point and b) the direction clutch (P2 pressure) test point. Test & Adjust procedure is attached so that you can identify their locations. Run both gauges up to the dash or at least to somewhere where they are right in front of your eye line while operating. EDIT: A hint - don't use gauges that have a highly-damped needle. You need to be able to see the drop and recovery of the pressure. Glycerine-damped gauges ought to work. Monitor both the pressures as the machine warms up from cold and see if they drop off with time even when the transmission clutches are engaged (not during shifting in other words). Pay special attention to the P2 pressure response time. P2 pressure will drop significantly and recover every time you make a transmission shift. How far does it drop and how fast does it recover to whatever pressure it was before you made the shift.? Does this time change as the oil gets hotter.? Does the pressure drop further and take more time to recover as the oil gets hot, even if you are not yet at the point where you are experiencing shifting issues.? At the same time it would pay you to monitor the temperature of the powertrain oil using an infra red thermometer for reference purposes and post your results. At this point a cooling issue can not be ruled out.
SAE 50 was not the best option i concur, but it came out of a mystake made by the dealer, bought 2 drums and they were delivered to the farm, farm keeper was there... invoice did mentioned SAE 30. When i opened the drum was winter , and a very frosty winter morning did not realize it was SAE50 instead. We heve temps over 30ºC from MAY to OCT, trans is not overheating as the trans temp gauge is working fine. and i´ve running without the floor plate and its not getting overheated at all. the engagement response time is not the issue, the issue is not engaging at all, its like it looses pressure , the controls are worn and play a litle, but one can feel the gates... at least the 1-2-3 , can´t say the same about the fwd / rwd, cause i can´t feel it leaving the gate. It does it from rwd motion into fwd and from fwd into rwd. Only after some time working. Could it be related with some debris in the modulation valve? As i understood from the schematics the RWD or FWD pack need to be engaged(with press) before it is available to 1-2-3 spool correct? i´ll check the pressures , then report back. Thanks ps: the test chart above is missing the powershift part...
sounds like a pressure problem put a guage on it and you will see the pressure drop my guess would be a wore trans pump
Random comments 1. SAE50 is definitely not good if you have frost on the ground in winter although based on your explanation I can understand how you came to acquire it. 2. Temp gauges can be massively inaccurate, especially old ones. Better to confirm with an infra red thermometer. 3. The engagement response time is exactly the parameter to monitor to understand what is going on. If you start with a cold machine where engagement response times are (for example) 0.2 seconds then as the machine gets warmer the time increases until it's 0.5 seconds, then it gets to the point where the time increases until it doesn't engage agear at all it's exactly the point. 4. Don't go looking for complicated solutions inside the control valve until you have identified and corrected all the external issues such as the "slop" in the linkages.
And wear in the pump coupled with an oil that is too high a viscosity for the prevailing ambient temperature range could cause exactly the symptoms you have. The SAE50 oil will somewhat mask the issues when it’s cold but not when it gets warm. Hence my pressure gauge suggestion. P2 recovery time is important, observing pump pressure from cold to normal operating temperature will tell you a lot about the condition of the pump.
Sorry, try this one. I downloaded the wrong file.
Here's another random thought. When you removed the suction strainer and checked it did you replace the two O-Ring seals on the Case with new.? An old, hardened seal can easily start to let air in at times. Also I would suggest that you check the tightness of all the hose clamps on the suction line between the screen and the pump and at the same time check the connections at the pump suction port. I'm not sure if the pump suction side has a short "stub" tube on it that has a gasket or an O-Ring behind it. Either way you should take a look and tick it off the list before moving forward.
Hy Nige, the machine has always had this problem since I own it. As I mostly use it for towing, and it tow’s well I haven’t been keen on dealing with the problem. What I did until now was replacing the TXM oil, inspect the strainer and main filter, replaced the main filter. Inspection of filter and strainer did not reveal any concern. I could not check the TC strainer, as I need help to remove the guard plate. Next few days I’ll do the TC strainer and check the control rods, and watch pressures. Somehow I got a feeling on either the main valve body or the priority valve. Bear with me… if it was press related the clutches would let go at some point, right ? This trans is not of the Permanent system or is it? Also once I get it in gear, shifting from 1st 2nd 3rd in same direction does not fail. Either FWD or RWD, it’s just the Shutle Between FWD and RWD.
Those symptoms potentially point to the need for control linkage adjustments or wear in the linkage components "across the gate" as per the arrows. I think this is where we came in........... Not necessarily. Each of the five clutches in the transmission needs either P1 (speed - 1, 2, 3) or P2 (direction FWD, REV) pressure to engage. If the clutches are receiving no pressure at all for whatever reason they will be effectively "spinning in neutral" which will not wear them out. To engage any gear requires a combination of two clutches, one speed and one direction. This is another reason for getting pressure gauges on the test points, to see if you have no pressure at all at the time you lose the gears. Having no pressure would be better in some ways than having a pressure that is lower than specified.
Hi guys it sounds like you may have the problem surrounded and closing in on the cause quickly. I would second both getting the linkages and cables adjusted and also that the full pressure test should give a lot of answers if the problem is more serious. One thought I wanted to share is a problem my D6H had when I went to inspect it before purchasing. It would jump out of forward and also didn't feel like it was engaging the detent to lock in position or the gate as you described it. It would stay driving if you kept holding the handle twisted hard in the forward direction. It would some times stay there for a short time before jumping out, but never felt like it was going far enough to go over the detent. Reverse was fine and felt right so I assumed the linkages just needed adjusting. First thing I did when I got it home was investigate (worried about causing damage from partial engagement)... I found the cause while working out how the linkages worked before adjusting. There is a plastic electrical switch in the control handle that is for the reverse beeper warning. It had broken and parts of it were blocking the forward/reverse twist control. Removed the broken pieces and it clicked into forward again with no adjustments needed. My drama was only in one direction but it could easily block both I think. Not saying it is your problem but it would be easy to rule out and could save a lot of trouble. Would cause a lot of frustration trying to adjust the linkages too.
Ahhh sorry was just thinking mine is diff steer, so this may not even apply if yours is steering clutches!!! I should have asked that first???
Hello Gents, Just an update... Haven´t had time to check the pressures, neither the control linkages. But, I´ve been working with the machine and now we have 35/40ºC days another problem came by... wich was coolant overheat, and trans overheat. "after all the trans temp gauge is not working". Gave a look to the radiator , and damm it was so clogged u guys don`t even imagine... gave it a rough clean and the coolant dropped to 80/85ºC at thermostat(before was 95/100/ @105 would open bypass), as this machine is fitted with a remote gas type sensor at this area, besides the stock one wich is dwn. After this cleaning the trans started to behave much better, and the TMX temp light take much more time to show. Before moving any further i guess i should take a look at the TMX cooler circuit. Do u guys know if it is common to the thing get cloged to the point of overheating ? Is it possible to disassemble this thing easy without draining the TMX oil? as the coolant would be impossible.
Nige , litle help with the pump test pressure port? is the P1?,
f
Gentleman... Anyone about the trans pressure pump pick up port?
P1 and pump pressure are the same thing.
RGR, What can cause TXM overheating? besides runing in stall condition... Do u have work card on the TC strainer? found it quite dificult to identify where it was...
A cooling system that is not in optimum condition. To be honest if I was in your position I would remove the radiator assembly and thoroughly clean it both internally and externally before proceeding further. It is impossible to clean the radiator in a machine such as yours with it installed in the machine. Despite the fact that you might think you have it clean I can guarantee you that it won’t be.
Yes u´re right , i just did a rough clean and it came out much better. Removing the rad is no easy cake... I guess i´d rather pressure wash it both sides and see the result. If needed i may have to remove it.... Do u know if its common to have clogging on the TMX heat Exchanger? and if can get the core out for cleaning without removing TMX fluid? A work card on this subject would be much apreciated.... thanks
Better than pi$$ing around trying to clean it from the outside which NEVER works because of the restricted access. It saves you time & trouble to bite the bullet first up and do it right. The cooler (and the pump) is supposed to be replaced after a transmission failure or overhaul. Lots of machines the size of yours nobody even thinks to even remove the cooler and look at it. It can be removed without draining the oil but you will lose some oil during the process. Personally I would drain the oil into a clean container before starting to remove the cooler just in case. A specialist heat exchanger (not radiator) shop should be able to clean it for you.
Yes,those 1DD radiators are slightly too small for what those D5’s are capable off.They punch well above their weight and require that little radiator to be super clean. Nige is right,the rad needs to come out to be cleaned,then pull the coolers anyway as they allways have rubbish in them. However,I’ll give you a glimmer of optimism here, take the front grill off so you can really get in every corner with your jet wash.Obtain a little fitting for the end of your jet wash lance that swivels,then spend a good couple of hours (don’t rush) jetting every single bit out.Wash from the engine side outwards only.Don’t randomly wash the visible crud off the fins.Work in a very uniformed fashion around 6” square at a time.Start at the top and and be strict on yourself to stick at it.Spray some chemical on it too and let it soak.Don’t be tempted to spray it back on itself
Keep at until you want to drown yourself in a pond,then leave it to dry naturally.If you drive it off into the dust,it will block up again instantly and set like concrete.Also comb any folded fins straight. If it’s got fan belt guards,throw them out of the way until it’s fixed properly as they’ll probably be coming off anyway. Remember,that the radiator only really cools in certain places (the 4 corner quarters) the center chunk is just somewhere to bang your head against whilst your jet washing it all out.. Be patient with this procedure and do it right.It might (just might) save you from pulling the radiator out.
I guess I can wash it out nicely, just need to remove the fan… I think it’s possible with the rad in place, then should be piece of cake. more worried with the coolers… thanks for the imput
And how, pray tell, do you plan to clean the inside.? By your description of all the maintenance-related problems on this tractor it wouldn’t surprise me at all if the inside of the cooling system was in a similar condition to the outside as a result of using poor quality coolant. As a matter of interest what coolant do you have in it right now.?
The inside is not bad at all, it came with anti-freeze. Actually the radiator inner does not appear so bad… A the clogging was in the rows just close to the fan mainly, due to a fuel leak and coal dust. I identify this black matter as being coal dust. Or something alike, even the air filter was full of it. Basically the air was not flowing. Now it’s flowing and I’m pretty sure when I pressure wash it from both sides it will get almost perfect. Regarding the TXM , probably we have 2 problems , overheating combined with a worn out pump. I pray is some kind of pressure regulation, and we can get it going without fitting a new pump right away. Finguers X.
There are all kinds. What colour.?
Somehow I seriously doubt that, because trying to adjust the pressure upwards on a worn pump will only make it fail more quickly and as a result contaminate the entire power train oil system, but I guess someone has to be thinking positive.
Green stuff, that 2€ liter type. Well, based on my experience with oil pumps, what i mentioned does not make much sense ... I mean´t some regulation problem due to debris in system.... Pumps sometimes can be recovered by overhauling... but i do not know if in this one it can be done.... it could why not...
Sh1te in other words. It really needs a full drain and flush and a refill with ELC that is the recommended coolant for this application. Remember the discussion we had regarding the transmission oil.? Same standards apply here. Based on what I know about cat transmission pumps it is highly likely that attempting to raise the relief pressure on a worn pump will cause it to fail but roll the dice if you want to, it’s not my tractor. I suppose that you also believe it’s possible for pigs to fly.?
Indeed u throw a pig out of a plane, it fly´s not very efective i must admit... Got your point, what interest me is not flying activities , is overhauling the pump ? is this possible?
There are repair parts available. See the attachment. Depending on what you find when you pull the pump apart it may be more economic to simply replace the pump with a Reman one. Price up a 20R7460 and compare it to piece parts to repair your pump.
Thanks, i wonder if the pump might be fine and oil is leaking somewhere... but that i have to guess by checking the pressures ... In 2 weeks i´ll post my findings
I must admit that I am finding it increasingly more difficult to understand your logic and thinking processes. You only purchased the machine relatively recently so you have no idea of anything at all regarding its previous history. If that was me I would be questioning everything and taking nothing for granted. So on the one hand without any hard evidence to prove it one way or the other you seem to have convinced yourself that the powertrain cooler is probably plugged, yet on the other hand and again with no evidence you have convinced yourself that the radiator (which is only a different type of cooler when all is said and done) is absolutely fine internally. Would you like to explain how that works, because it makes no sense at all to me.?
Nige... Its easy... i`m no where convinced of the rad is perfect, from what i can see in the gauges and looking inside by the filler cap, i´m convinced the rad is clean enough for a 30 Yr machine. Coolant is now @ 80ºC, where before the rough clean was 100ºC. I can´t say the same from the TXM heat exchanger, at the moment we see overheating, wich can be from a problem in the TXM, or the heat exchanger clogged. We want to start by cleaning the Exchanger, wich is much, much more pratical. It might bring us to the point of working a full morning without shifting problems. The Rad will be cleaned throughly when we have time to stop it , in the winter, right now we need it to be going. The same goes for the TMX shifting problems, when we got time to stop it , we´ll fix it. What might be simple for u, after so many years dealing with those CAT´s its not a easy task for us, we don´t know the systems from heart and the implications of every sub system has on the performance. I´m pretty sure controling the overheating won´t solve our shifting problems, but i´m positive it might help. Later on, step by step w´ll be able to tackle all problems , with your help and others ofcourse.
If the cooler is plugged then most likely the radiator is too they both have about the same size openings. save your self some trouble and replace the hyd. pump if the pump is not performing at the set pressure then Rasing the pressure will only make the pump less effective. It is not that big of a job to remove the radiator pull it and have it cleaned by a radiator shop.
Hy gents , some update.... The cheap fixing ended, rad cleaned... it was really dirty, on the other hand the TXM cooler was not bad at all, a litle silicone rubish , just foud out either the system is strange or is missing something ... later on we'll see. Tomorrow we will install the gauges and see how it is going.
Are those photos before or after cleaning? If the radiator is clogged up that bad externally it would absolutely cause over heating!! You may well still have other problems to deal with, but if you can get the radiator clean I think you could cure most of your heat related dramas. I know the guys are all saying to pull it out to clean it (and I respect that) but I have had great success with a steam/hot water pressure cleaner for external cleaning in the machine. The one I have goes up to 150*C and there isn't much it wont dissolve. They are life changing compared to a cold water one! If you could get access to one it could save a lot of work. Not sure if they are common where you live but perhaps you could hire or borrow one? Anyway I am finding this thread rather fascinating for a number of reasons. Interested to hear how your next round of testing goes.
Hey, we have hot water pressure washers... but they are not suited to field ops. Used a cold one Fotos were after i clean from front, before i had the fan and pulley removed. I can't say it was piece of cake , but it was done. Removing the RAD is a bulky job... u can't do it alone. Or i can't. I did it with rad in place. It is clean now... Just found out some piping for, (non original) what seems to me a air/ oil coller in the front... This piping is buryed deep in **** and other piping and i couldn't access what are for... Does this machine came with a HYD oil Cooler? Thanks
If those photos are after you cleaned it then all I can say is that it's still NOWHERE NEAR being clean, but if you're happy with it then I guess no-one else will be able to convince you otherwise. Last question first - no oil cooler on the hydraulic system. Time to lower the belly guards out and clean everything by the sound of it. A lack of air flow around the engine in the direction of the radiator will also affect cooling system performance and lead to engine overheating. How about some photos of the piping and the "extra" cooler.?
Mmm I hope you got it cleaner after you took the photos then. I know the hot water pressure cleaners aren’t super portable but if you can get the dozer somewhere that you could use one I think it would be well worth the effort as soon as you get the chance. Will be interesting to see if you got it clean enough to make it usable when you test it? When I pulled the radiator apart in my D6h I could pull the square core sections out one by one inside the hard nose of the dozer. It wasn’t a fun job but was doable, can’t remember if I had a second person. Not sure if this is possible with a D5, Nige or someone else with more experience than I do may know? Nige said your machine doesn’t have a hydraulic oil cooler as standard… my next guess would be an Air con condenser but like Nige said some pictures would be most useful. Very interested to see a pic of the whole machine too?
Nige... daaa the pics was just to show how dirt it was... its clean belive me. The temp show 75°C steady puling or no puling... as it should... 75°C its the indication on the gauge... its just the reading. Important is its steady when pulling and idling... This piping i mentioned is conected on the trans case as can be seen by the pics. That botom 3/4 hose ... goes around the nose its conected with the other that runs to the rear , can't were it goes. There is evidence of some gadget was fitted there. Its not anymore. Pressure on the upper left port , is around 22 bar oil cold , when going from rwd to fwd it decreases in less than a second to 20 and goes back to 22. With oil hot show 24. Engine idle oil hot drops to 10/12 1/3 thr up show 24 again. Just have one 9/16 tap... got to buy an adapter for the second gauge. Trans is acting funny as it was but still engaging after 2h working , before it didn't. How do i post videos? Anyone know what are those 2 sensors in the last pic?
Only 4 pics? Buh
Double check that with a temp gun. If the correct water temperature regulator is fitted to the cooling system the coolant temperature should be running at around 90°C. Have you even checked if it has a temperature regulator fitted.? Would you like to put your pressures in psi so everyone can understand them please. Bars mean nothing to me I'm afraid.
Can you identify them from the wire colours numbers on the electrical schematic. I would guess that the one with the yellow wire coming from it is the converter outlet temperature. What colour wire(s) are connected to the other one.?
Nige I believe that your guess is correct… single wire should be the sender for converter outlet temp and the two wire one should be a temp activated switch to bring on the Trans overheating warning light and buzzer on the dash. Should activate at something like 130*C
All it takes is for someone to be smart enough to look at the schematic……
Psi also means nothing to me... but i can google and found out 22 BAR being 319 psi. 1 bar about 14 psi 130° celsius? That is way hot ... Anyone with a squematic regarding the trans case outlets? I'm really anoyed with this piping.
Nope. 125-130 is the normal range for the "high torque converter outlet temperature" alarm to go off. Specification below (again from the schematic) - 125. Torque converter outlet temperature values during operation of 100-115 would be considered perfectly normal.
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You can also register for a free Caterpillar account at “parts.cat.com” (just google it). You then can access the free version of “Cat SiS 2.0” (Service information System). This will give you access to a digital version of the parts manuals and they have also now added a heap of other stuff like the operators manuals and some schematics on the free version. You can pay Caterpillar a subscription to have full access to workshop manuals ect. like some people here have access to, but it is rather expensive. I haven’t renewed the paid version at the moment. If you like technology Cat also has a phone app now that with the account will let you download all the SiS info you have access to for each serial number and have access to it even while offline on a phone or tablet. I find this extremely useful as we don’t have any mobile phone networks where we work most of the time and the moment I have a problem I can check the info and start troubleshooting instantly for any machine in my fleet. If you don’t mind digital formats (physical manuals sure have their benefits) it might be a help to you until you can get hold of manuals like Nige linked to.
JAJ. Thanks for the tip. I guess i didn't expect the fluid to be so hot after being "strirred" by the TC. Got to fix the temp gauge. About the pressures? U have any coment?
Unfortunately I have no idea from your description of "upper left port" which test port you are talking about. Go back to Post #13 on Page 1. Attached to that Post is an Adobe pdf document with the complete Test & Adjust procedures for the Power Train. Please read through that then indicate using the nomenclature in that document exactly at which test point you are measuring pressure. Refer to the procedure whether you are supposed to test pressure at that point with oil cold or hot, at Low Idle or High Idle, transmission in neutral or in a gear, etc etc. The conditions/requirements for testing are there for a reason but you seem to be just blindly ignoring them and doing what you see fit. Psi vs Bar. You are on a forum where most members use English units. If you want help did it not occur to you that posting test results in a system that most of the forum members understand might produce better results.? Just in case you are still confused.......... Here, Let Me Google That For You Passive-aggressively teach your friends how to Google. For all those people who find it more convenient to ask you rather than search it themselves. Not associated with Google. googlethatforyou.com
Its P1 pressure... The units discussion lead us nowhere ... english / metric... whatever it could even be russian system. But i'll find it intersting CAT publishes in metric system first. Kpa / Mpa / BAR its related. When they talk about the "load piston plug removed" mean i have to open the rear and remove it from the valve body? Just remove it? OR is something else. Pls explain... is not making sense to me.
You remind me of my ex wife. Joe H
Now now... ex wives are people too!!
On a more serious note... Thank you for being clearer about the pressure port you measured at. I am not familar with working on D5H dozers at all and looking at the parts diagrams for the transmission lines, it is set up very different to my D6H. Working from the test procedure that Nige uploaded so we can understand where you are up to and what you are checking is vital. I for one, will be no help if I cant follow the test procedure with you.... not that I probably have as much to offer as some of the others any way. Referring to the spec chart, that pressure you measured at full throttle is low. The pressure you measured at low idle, was that in gear or neutral? If it was in gear... it is very low. This could point to leakage somewhere internally or a worn out pump. More data/info needed!!! You will need to measure all the pressures listed in the spec chart or as many as you can for a start. This should point to the cause and tell us what is going on. It could be something simple and easy to fix but we need all the data/info you can give us to work it out. RE: The "load plug". I don't know, it confused me when I tested my dozer so I just tested the machine as it was. Hoping the more experienced guys can shed some light on it and I can learn something as well?? Some simple stuff, but just want to check..... 1: Have you have checked the trans oil level with it at operating temp while running (assume this is is correct procedure for this machine???) ? 2: Have you checked the breather for the transmission? 3: Someone already suggested... but have you checked the suction line to the trans pump for damage or leaks? My thinking is sucking air or cavitation. Both will kill pumps very quickly. All these things are easy to do if you haven't done them already. I assumed they had been checked but thought it worth asking.
Good post JAD. Your point on getting the correct procedure testing is very valid . It would be very prudent for the OP to listen carefully to whatever TC Tractors and Nige say on this matter.They’ve both been helping me on an issue that’s had us nearly beat,but old fashioned experience with these two chaps has won the day
Gents Finally was able to test much of the TXM ... Some things i did not cause was unable due to lack of hardware. The TXM filter housing has a port stating" Pump Press" this should be related to main pump? Or is the pre -pump press? Apreciate the coments
tell the story please Nicky always interested
Great stuff, well done on the data collection!! I’ll have to have an analysis of the data properly but at first glance it looks like you have some leakage on the first gear speed circuit and all are a bit low if I remember the spec sheet. Have to check it before I comment. The TXM filter port you are talking about… on my dozer this was pump pressure and was a bit higher spec than the P1. With all the data, the more experienced guys will most likely have a lot more to offer than I do, have to wait and see.
Hi Mark.I would like to explain things,but it’s all way above my brain capacity I’m afraid.Suffice to say,an older D9R is now fighting fit with the help of these two chaps.
Hey guys ... Any coments? BTW , found out where the custum hoses are coming from... its conected on the upper right part of TC , goes to the front of tractor (where a rad was i think)and back to TXM case I suspect is cnected to TC case scavenge line... if this is the case something is very wrong in there... Any of u got TC explanation sheet? Where one can se wich ports are , and what bolts where... Thanks.
What is the port circled in the picture? thanks
It is a bit confusing when looking at that diagram and the diagram of the hoses and lines…. I would expect that the scavenger port would be at the bottom of the case (it is on my d6h anyway). It looks to me like it could be the inlet port?? Have you worked though the other hoses, process of ellimintation? I can’t access the workshop manuals at the moment so hopefully Nige might have some wisdom for us? Have you checked those other easy things I asked about???
wIch ones? Yes it can be the oil inlet , why not! I'm completely lost, i don´t know why it seamed the case scavenge outlet. where would be the case scavenge port then? a diagram would help a lot...
RE: which ones? A quick scroll back up this page of posts and you will find them! I would expect that the scavenge port would be somewhere near the bottom, but I could be incorrect. It could even be internal and not have an external port visable? Looking at the parts diagrams I cant tell if the trans pump bolts to the TC case or the transmission housing and run by a drive sharft like my D6H. I have a hose from the port to the pump on mine. By process of elimination there has to be an IN, OUT (should have the TC outlet relief valve then run to the cooler) and scavenge port of some description as a minimum. I can only see the info you can at the moment and I cant see the machine to be able work it out without manuals. If you cant work it out looking at it in person with the info you have access too, you have the options of getting a workshop manual, or paying someone local to you to come and work it out for you. I have spent countless hours studying the workshop manuals on my dozer then comparing that to the actual machine trying to learn and understand the systems while troubleshooting my problems (and I absolutly dont claim to be an expert by any measure)... there isn't too many shortcuts to knowledge and understanding unfortunatly and that is why people keep saying if you want to fix it yourself you need manuals. As a final thought.... if I was to make a slightly educated guess stumbling in the dark.... if the extra piping to the front of the machine isn't original and isn't part of a high ambient temp cooling pack (ie not caterpillar) , then I would guess the dozer had dramas with high trans/TC temps and instead of fixing the cause someone tried to just add extra cooling as a bandage job. I would guess their theory to have been "try to pre-cool it before it went into the TC (should be the hottest component)". At this stage I dont have much more to add that would help you.
Were u refering to this ? Yes i've visually checked. Does not show nothing, except the intake pipe is a litle bent... can see if it colapses when hot. The hose, definetly was an atempt to cool the oil down. Before i cleaned the rad it used to triguer the trans overheat alarm. I'm going to get a genuine hose. In this outfit the TC casing has the TMX pump on the right and the Hydraulic pump on the left. TXM filter assy is conected to TXM case as everithing else. The TC case drain port does not seem to be internal. As this pump has 3 pumping elements, pre-clean/ lube; working pressure, and TC case scavenge. But when i look to the drawings and in the machine i only see 2 pairs of Inlet/outlet lines. As per the drawings below. I want to avoid droping a new pump there / or overhaul this one and after all this hassle everithing stay the same...
Hey gents ... Strugling to find the priority valve test port, anyone got a picture of it? It would be much apreciated.