Hey. Recently purchased a d5h. s/n1dd06270 Running it for a short amount of time and the transmission temp light came on. After a few more minutes the lower right hand light also came on. (not sure what that light means, need to get a operators manual) Dozer seemed to be losing speed while walking back to the shop. Pulled transmission element filter and it is completely collapsed. What would cause the filter element to collapse?
Either its the wrong filter or it hasn't been replaced....ever
Was there a number on the filter??
You need Cat Publication reference SEBU6014. You can download a copy for around $50 from HERE . Just put SEBU6014 in the box and click the Search button.
This....... What type and viscosity of oil are you using in the transmission.? In your climate a multigrade TO-4 will likely be required.
The point was we had trouble with high efficiency filters in the hystats moisture in the oil would cause the by pass to blow because of the media the element was made of. I was never a fan of the high efficiency filter. The one Cat engineer would always tell me to put the high efficiency filter in just to jack me and he knew why I didn't like them
Point taken, and a filter part number would be extremely useful. But this machine is a powershift not a hystat.
the point is because it doesn't like to pass oil with moisture it could possibly cause it to crush
If the machine has been parked for a while before the current owner purchased it that's a distinct possibility. A transmission service (oil, filter, screen cleaning, etc) at this point might be a good idea. It would be especially interesting to see what's in the screen. For the OP. That is the warning for a plugged transmission oil filter. So it appears as though the pressure switch works (which is a bonus) and that the filter probably collapsed while you were moving the tractor to the shop.
Thanks for all the responses. I cannot make out the number on the filter it got ripped when the filter collapsed. It looks to be a genuine cat filter. The oil is unknown as we just purchased it at an auction. It very much appears that the machine has been sitting for over a year. Last oil change was dated Aug 2024 and only 15hrs since.
Post a photo of the collapsed filter. It might be possible to identify if it is a Standard or High Efficiency based on its construction. Based on the time of the year I would recommend you do an oil change while you are replacing the filter. At the same time the suction screen can be removed, inspected, & cleaned. Lastly for your climate conditions I would strongly recommend you use a multigrade TO-4 oil. The options I am aware in your neck of the woods of are Cat TDTO-TMS or Petro Canada Produro TO-4 All Season 5W-30. Both are synthetic oils.
I can see the Part Number in the top right of the photo - 1R-0719, but only because I know what it's supposed to be. That is a standard filter element, not High Efficiency. The High Efficiency Part Number alternative would be 132-8875.
It that the filter you would want in this machine?
1R-0719 is the Standard filter Part Number. It should work fine provided there are no plans for the tractor to work 24/7, in which case I would go with a High Efficiency filter.
Where would the suction screen be located?
See Items 30/52 on the attachment. There is a screen and a magnet assembly. Take photos of whatever material you find in there. Also there is a small screen, #21 in the illustration below, in the scavenge outlet from the torque converter. There should not be anything in that screen but if you have the oil drained it would be advisable to inspect and clean it.
Hey finally got time to look at the machine again. Pulled the suction screen on the transmission has a bit of rust particles attached to the magnets, and a few rubbery pieces. Possibly from the filter collapsing. Torque converter screen was clean.
Nothing of note in the screen. You may be right that the rubber particles came from the filter, and at least with them being rubber they wouldn't have damaged the pump even if they went through it. Replace the filter with another 1R-0719, get the correct oil in it (see Post #11 above) and see how you go from there would be my suggestion.
Nothing on the magnets to write home about
Got oil back in and new filters. Took it out started pushing some dirt. After 10 min the transmission high temp light came on again. The machine feels to almost derate itself. Won’t go to high idle till it’s in neutral. Got a temp gun and checked where I could around the filter housing and hoses and the highest reading I can get is 115f. Also shifting from 1st to 2nd there is a slight pause then jumps into 2nd. Not sure where to go next with this machine.
As a matter of intersst what oil did you put in it.? Maybe some pressure testing might be in order.
What is the coolant temperature doing do when the high transmission temperature light is on.?
It’s only getting up to 115-120f as well.
As the Chinaman would say. Sum Ting Wong. Time to dig into the electronics maybe.? IIRC there should be a temperature dependency on the plugged transmission filter warning of something like 55 DegC (131 DegF). If the switch activates with an oil temperature below the dependency level then the alarm should not sound.
On our d5h I had the same problem after we did an oil change cleaned the screens and replaced the filter the temp light and buzzer would still go off. I can’t remember if it’s the temperature/ pressure switch under the floorboard I replaced that sensor and that was the problem. I can’t remember the part number I would have to look tonight and see if I have it still. It lead me to that temp switch, on the gauge the trans temp would be at normal operating temp but the alarm would go off.
That would be great to get that part number. Everything is kind of leading to a sensor issue. I’d still like to get a pressure test done on the transmission.
See attached. You want Ref #6. Probably also an idea to replace the O-Ring #5 as well.
Yes what nige said put a new o ring in their also and we did pressure test as well just to have piece of mind that is the correct part the nige sent over in the diagram
So I got the new sensor installed and the light still comes on at 115f.
Are you using the same 1R-0719 Part Number as the one that came out.? What oil did you put in it.?
Ya I replaced the filter with that number and used shells TO-4 30W oil. I can get the light on just sitting in the shop with and holding the brake to get it warmed up to 115f. The gauge starts at 120f but I’m running around with a temp gun. Thinking it might be a wiring harness issue.
Do Shell sell a multigrade TO-4 oil in your area.? It would probably be an SAE5W30 or 10W30.
It was shells spiral s4 cx 10w
No that's not it. The Shell Multigrade TO-4 oil is called Spirax S4 TXM https://infinityent.net.in/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Spirax_S4_TXM.pdf Your other options would be Petro Canada Produro TO-4 All Season, or Mobil Delvac All Season Transmission Fluid.
I’m thinking there are two switches for torque temp single wire for gauge two wire for ecm
That link is the stuff I put in.
I replaced the single wire temp sensor.
I’m thinking you should change the 2 wire one
You could check to see if that switch is the cause of your problem by removing one wire from the 2 wire switch and see if that keeps the light out but watch temp gauge
I was thinking the gauge was wrong. 2-wire switch for EMS warning light is 3T-5825 + 3K-0360 O-Ring.
The top single one I just replaced. The bottom 2 wire one is butt spliced. They must have upgraded the sensor?
Possibly they use to have screws
The original OEM 3T-5825 Switch had a short pigtail to a 2-pin Sure-Seal connector and the wires were fixed to the switch with small screws. That has been replaced by a 3E-6453 Switch with wires moulded into it and connected to the machine harness with a Deutsch DT connector. Maybe someone couldn't be bothered with replacing the connector on the machine side and spliced butt connectors on to it.?
I thought you said earlier (Post #38 on Page 2) that you put Spirax S4 10W in it.? Those two are not the same oil.
I was doing a little research seems that is a normal closed switch check butt connectors for bad connection
Sorry. I was looking back at my messages with my dealer and got mixed up with the one we used. I’m back at the shop now, and we ended up using the S4 TMX that we carry on the shelf in bulk that dealer said would be compatible with this older machine.
Well that confirms it's not the oil that is causing issues. The 10W viscosity of the oil when cold should cause it to flow like water.