Machine idles good... but when i release parking break and try to move it its acting like brake is engaged or something is not working right. If standing on the track you can feel the drive motor snug up the slack for a millisecond but obviously machine goes nowhere. The previous owner said that he had a computer "reflashed" or something. I have not checked to confirm alternator is producing a clean enough 24+VDC. I think the first code should clue me into where to look. does anyone have a wiring diag for a d5m or have a hint on where to start? The following are the service codes im getting TRANSMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM VOLTAGE BELOW NORMAL 113 0168.04 FUEL LEVEL SENSOR LOW 030 0096.03 ACTION ALARM 030 0271.05
Lots of options - start with a Serial Number ......... Did you buy the machine with this fault or did it develop suddenly or got worse over a period of time..? 0168-04 Code is often recorded during startup when the voltage momentarily dips. Is the Code you have Active (there now) or Logged (was there once but is not there now)..?
Another question. Do you have an Operation & Maintenance Manual..?
a local guy wants to sell me the machine. im not sure if this is active - i clicked the checkmark button and this came up. the guy also said the machine has been made to "freewheel" to get loaded on a trailer. how is that possible?
To see if you have any Active Codes, turn the key on and let the panel perform the self-test (all gauges swing full range, warning lights flash, warning buzzer sounds). In the top RH corner of the lower window (dark rectangular panel #1 in the illustration below) is a "SERV CODE" icon. That icon should light up during the self-test. If the SERV CODE icon goes out at the end of the test - you have no Active Codes, if it stays on - you do. Ask him how it was made to "freewheel". The usual way is by pulling the axle shafts.
If you want an electrical schematic first thing that is required is the Serial Number. Lots of different model of D5M out there, need to get the right one. I looked at your video. You have the same three codes that were listed in your OP:- TRANSMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM VOLTAGE BELOW NORMAL 113.0168.04 - this code is NOT active right now. I do however suggest that you run it and measure the alternator voltage, just to make sure. It ought to be around 26V even with the engine idling. FUEL LEVEL SENSOR LOW 030.0096.03 - this Code is Active. It means your fuel level gauge won't work. ACTION ALARM 030.0271.05 - This Code is Active. It means that when you have a Level 3 warning on the Monitor Panel the buzzer won't work. I suspect that when you first turn the key on that the buzzer won't work during the self-test. So in answer to your OP although you have 2 Active Codes right now, in my opinion neither of them will in any way stop the machine driving. You also said that apparently the previous owner had the "transmission module" flashed. Ask them if they mean the Power Train ECM..? If so it's perfectly possible to have it flashed, I just hope that whoever did it used the correct software flash file Part Number corresponding to the Serial Number of the tractor. Also I hope that they did it for the right reasons, not just "because" in the hope that it was something electronic that would get the machine driving again. I'm wondering if something as simple as the Park Brake valve could be broken or stuck. If the valve had an electrical fault like a solenoid failure it should show up as an Active Code, but it doesn't. The only thing that wouldn't show up as a Code would be if the Park Brk solenoid valve had a broken spool or something similar. Now in post #4 you say that "the guy also said the machine has been made to "freewheel" to get loaded on a trailer" ......... now if that was done by pulling the axle shafts (you should ask them EXACTLY HOW it was made to freewheel) then there's the reason right away why the machine won't drive. Another thought - if the shafts were actually removed, where are they..? Usually they get dumped in the cab. TBH the first thing I would be looking at is the state of magnetic plugs, screens, and filter elements right the way through the power train, just to see what's there. It might be that a magnet somewhere is covered in evidence that proves a mechanical hernia has happened somewhere inside the transmission or other power train component. How much access will they grant you to the machine to fiddle with it in order to investigate why it won't drive..?
There are actually 4 axle shafts on a D5M, 2 outer and 2 inner. No one illustration shows them all. 2 inner ones that are the input to the steering clutches, and an outer one that takes the drive from the steering clutches to each final drive. See below. First inner, then outer. Axle R&I procedure also attached. I suspect that in the case of your machine only the outer shafts have been removed. Leaving the inner ones in place would account for the "jerk" felt on the tracks when you engage gear, but the machine won't move.