Can the Equalizer bar be removed on a D5MXL without removing one of the track roller frames ? That looks like a lot of work ? Thanks for any info. Kevin
Probably. Can't remember if I have done a 5H before but have done several 6Rs. One problem is the way the bar ends are made. There is a lot of material on the ends of the bar and it doesn't let you just slide it to one side so it drops down and then lift it out. Also used a porter power and push the frame apart to get a little extra room. Pulling the one roller frame isn't that hard but you need to have the equipment to do it either a crane or fork lift. You will have to pull the blade or at least pull the dozer arm off one side if you want to pull the frame. Check your center pin holes in the tractor frame probably going to be bad. James
James, Thanks for your time and yes not much room to slide the bar out and looks like I will have to remove one of the roller frames. Thanks again Kevin
I think you may find that the amount of effort expended in trying to get the bar out without removing a track frame is far in excess of what you would need to expend to remove a track frame from one side of the machine and do it that way. As James mentioned above obviously the availability of something like a lift truck to actually remove the frame is also a potential factor.
Not to hijack Kevin's thread, but I need to do the same thing to my D6R, and replace pivot shaft seals while I'm at it. if I take the blade off and move the dozer into my concrete floored shed, how do I jack up only one side to remove the track and then the roller frame? In other words, where to jack with hydraulic jacks front and back? I think I've seen on this site that I will have to remove the belly pan and engine oil pan to repair the center eq hole.
You don't need to remove the tracks or the frame to whip out the E/Bar, I just drive the tractor up onto rail sleepers and lift the blade about 2 ft and pack under blade with timber baulks, ease the blade down to give a slight lift, then remove all the pins and press down on the blade to lift the nose, lift out the beam job done, because I near always work alone I use 2 pull lifts hitched over the track plates to do the jiggle out. tctractors
Thanks but after looking at it on more closely the Equalizer Bar looks like the only way to come out is one of the sides on the 5m and the book shows that. The way they built it looks like the only way and as Nige said could waste a lot of time for nothing.Kevin
Kevin, don't write off tc's way of doing it (post #6) without giving it serious consideration. I can see the logic of removing both outside pins then jacking the tractor up on the blade until the E-bar is clear of the track frames then remove the centre pin and simply slide it out sideways over the top of the track frame. You just need to get enough space to do the job which is why he mentioned getting the tracks up on some heavyweight cribbing.
Thanks Nige and yes I think TC's way of doing it might work, It's all about room to be able to slide it out. Think I will do a trial run and see how the clearance looks worth the time if it works. Thanks TC and Nige for your time. Kevin
bigbud, you do the task how you feel happy and safe, I do this work to earn coins and most often by myself, I have done at least 10 of these beam swaps and have the tooling to suck the pins out easily, I don't mind crawling about underneath the tractors and don't waste time popping off frames, it must be said that to remove a frame is very simple and might be worth a pop if you have a PAT blade? but to remove a straight mounted blade off a H/Drive then a T/Frame to swap out a beam, in the U.K. they would BOOT you off the Site, stick to what you feel safe doing always. Best of luck tctractors.