Just as the title says. I'm not sure why it's now stuck. It was rotating freely, but now you cannot rotate the Flywheel with a rope. What can be done to free the Flywheel to rotate again? Thank You.
Not familiar with a D6-9U, I'm guessing this is an old machine with a gasoline pony motor to start it? How long since it ran last? First thing I might be tempted try would be to remove spark plug(s) and see if it will turn over now. Can you put a wrench on something to try turning it backwards a bit? A little more history and maybe a couple pictures would help.
Hydraulic lock, either via gas flowing through to the combustion chambers from the fuel tank because the fuel tap wasn't turned off - or water down the exhaust into the combustion chambers. Water may have rusted the rings to the cylinder walls, if it's been left for some extended amount of time. As kshansen says, pull the spark plugs and then pull it over with the rope, see if it turns over and if anything comes out of the spark plug holes. If it still doesn't turn, squirt some penetrant with a can with a spray tube into the plug holes, spreading it around with the spray tube, and then leave it to soak.
Thank You. Yes, it's an older machine with a gas pony motor. This was purchased with an electric starter back in 1995. My Dad only had it for a handful of years before he past away-never using the Electric starter. However, now opening up the starter (which I cleaned and is responding) needs to have the larger gear replaced because it's badly warn. So he never could of used the Electric start to begin with. This machine was last started around 2000 or 2001.
Make sure the starting engine cluch lever is't angaged
I believe hector meant to say Engaged!
Is there oil in the pup engine? Was it run dry? Can you rock the flywheel back and forth a little bit?
Not only badly worn teeth, but a whole heap of corrosion in there, too! It's had water laying in it for some time.
Pony oil is on the low. The fly wheel is snug. No movement.
I've tried all that has been suggested with no fruitful outcomes. I did notice that the drain cock on the Left Hand side has no liquid draining while the Right side did. Before adding fuel to the Pony, I removed the carburetor, disassembled it, cleaned it, and reinstalled, something about a float needle not seating properly that may have allowed unwanted fuel to flow into the engine? Would this be a good idea or a bad idea? Would the electric starter free the hydro lock? Not that I can do that right at this moment anyhow. Thank You.
If you've removed the spark plugs and it still won't turn over, then I'd have to say the engine is seized from corrosion.
Maybe I'm not fully awake, waiting for coffee to brew!, are we talking about the pony engine flywheel not moving or the diesel engine flywheel not moving? If this machine has been setting for 20 plus years I would not be surprised if both were rusted up in the cylinders. Before getting in too deep I would make sure the big diesel engine will turn over some how by hand.
You could check the pinion is't freeze on the ring gear flywell and remove the 2 heads could have some rust in and could be too the magneto freeze
The wheel was moving fine when I first started working on it. However, I did find out that the radiator fan would not freely move. Maybe I need to just keep at it. But the Radiator fan-that's another thing I need to further investigate.
Those little pup engines are easy to remove the cyl heads from and if you are careful you can reuse the head gaskets. They are copper. You will have to drain the coolant first though. Make sure the main starter pinion is released from the diesel engine flywheel or it may be hard to turn by the fan blades
With the radiator drained, I took one cap off and the wheel was freed. And this is what was under the cap.
Due to all the crud that had built up over time, I noticed the small hole in the cap that leads to the drain cock was plugged; preventing any draining to clear the Hydraulic lock.
So does it turn over free now? Hard to tell from the pictures the condition of the bore for the piston, is that just crap on the bore or is the bore that bad?
While you’re there, you might as well dig out the ‘mud’ that has settled out of the coolant and plugged the passages. The other side of the pup engine’s coolant passages are probably the same way
Yes, the wheel is now freely spinning-no movements in other directions, nice and snug. The Bores are smooth. That was just crud on the inside. Witness marks from the rings on the edge of the Bore where it rested.
Yes the other side did have all the same crud build up. I imagine removing the radiator and a flush wouldn't be a bad idea? I was surprised just how jam packed that crud was.
Good cooling system maintenance is a must, if you want to avoid expensive repairs.
Just as important is the type/quality of coolant you put in it.
So, were you able to turn over the diesel eng by hand?
Unfortunately no. There is some small rotation in the fan, but it's a struggle.
Do you have the decompressor in the correct position?
Yes. I greased the fitting next to the fan as well and working it little by little.
I'm guessing if the oil was drained, I could open those corisponding panels to the pistons for a better look?
You don't need to drain the oil, it should be lower than that on the dipstick, right? I wouldn't open those though. Does the engine flywheel move now? Keep working it back and forth, if anything I'd take the exhaust manifold off so you can see which cylinder is open to the exhaust, and/or which likely has water, then add some acetone/atf to those or all cylinders, and keep working it.
Yes the oil dip stick is lower. The Flywheel is now free due to a clogged cooling system preventing any liquid to drain and clear the Hydraulic-Loc. The fan blades-I can now make a full rotation; although there is some resistance during the rotation. I'm not sure how much resistance I should feel when turning the fan. Does the fan need to be freed enough that the wind would turn it?
I noticed that the fan blades do turn, but the belt slides on the lower pulley wheel.
I was able to wrap the rope around the Flywheel with tension while simultaneously engaging the Pinion Lever until I felt the engagement. Then pull the rope in small jolts-although it took effort; I could see the fan spin.
The lower pulley is the main engine crankshaft, right? That's what you want to see turning, even if just a tiny bit at a time. If the pony is turning the main engine and that's driving the main fan, you're in good shape. It will be very difficult to turn much at all, because it should build compression with any movement. Then let it sit several seconds, and it should turn another tiny bit more easily. If it goes around once or twice, 360 or 720 degrees is best, then the main engine is fine to try to start, not hydrolocked or valve stuck or rod thown.
The lower pulley is. This makes me hopeful that it's not in as bad condition as I was thinking-to at least get the engines to run; maybe lifting the blade. I'll be checking to see if there's any contaminates in the main engine oil.
loosen the oil pan drain bolt and let it drip a couple drops out, right? if it's water, keep going, if you get a few drops of oil, tighten it back up and run it a couple hours before changing, or change the filter and run it 50...
And if it is anti-freeze..............not good!
Radiator was full to the top. Didn't notice anything on the dipstick (If that would be an indicator). Maybe that's a good sign. I'll be checking today. Spent a good portion putting things back together.