Hi We're currently looking for a decent D6R and have the chance of a couple. One has the 3306 engine other one is an early c9 both are similar hrs and condition am I better off with the 3306 as I hear heui in c9 problematic.
The 3306 is cheaper to fix and more trouble free. I'd take the 3306 over a c9 for a crawler.
The early series tractor is the 1 to go for if you need to earn money, check it out well and crawl under the beast and check the E/Beam in all 3 pin locations. tctractors
Tc is there any thing else I can check for as I'm going for another look at the machine on Tuesday.
If you need the list of things to check, you might be the wrong person looking at the beast? but I start at the back of the tractor and walk slowly around looking for dents, kinks, and knackered easy to spot things, then I look again for things that have been modified or not correct, then its into the pilots cabin and check what does and what fails to work in the switch gear etc, then a peep into recorded faults helps some, then its time to open up all the panels to see if it has an engine also the 2 things in the battery box has to be checked with a multi-meter, then its time to check dip sticks and water levels, with things found good its engine start up point, if all things sound correct here then its check pins and ram mounts in nose group,blade also edge hardware+tilt, then its onto the track frames including e/bar, this is all done with the motor spinning so you can press,lift and poke about, then I look at the F/Drives by at least undoing the oil level plugs and checking its contents, sparkles in this spot is not good?? also check for oil stains/weeping from the sun gear pins on the outer case, if things are looking good at this point its now time to check the undercart including segments for welding as an extra to bolts, with all the rollers and links checked and counted incase a link or roller is missing, I shut the engine off and stick a pressure gauge onto the test port on the back case, re-check the water in the rad, then crack up the motor and give it a bit of a birthday on a performance test through 4 stall /cool cycles in all forward gears and 2nd reverse, noting the engine speed drop from high idle to full load, in 1st gear you have to be carefull as the beast should drive through the brakes, then I do a rolling test by driving it forward and dropping it into N to see if it runs on smoothly, the diff steer and brakes are best tested on muck, if the tractor is on a site you can push muck about I drive it like its stolen for about 1/2 hour, finaly before I shut the motor down I walk around and look for things dropping off and oil leaks, after the engine shut down I listen to the beast with the engine panels open, "gurgling" and little "parps" are not good?? the engine should start without any puffing of white stuff, if it passes all these things and the customer buys the tractor, I have done my "Job" tctractors
Nicely done Tony, that is one paragraph to be printed out and kept handy. Overworked
Thanks for that Tony would you take a look for me if I crossed your palm with a few notes. It's located at Harrison machinery at Bedworth near BHam not sure where you live like is it within reason.
Another vote for a 3306 if you're a one-man sort of operation. C9's are fine when you have the backup of a fully-equipped maintenance shop, which I'm guessing you don't have.
Nige Looks like I have missed the 2001 6R the guy jus text me to let me know. If I do have to buy a C9 engined one is there any obvious things to look out for when viewing .
We do have a decent set up for workshops but no full time fitter that's between me and my father or we get self employed guys in if were struggling.
We have a load of C-Series here, from C6.6 to C32, the HEUI are generally the smaller ones like C9, so I will address the C-Series HEUI engines in particular. Best advice I can give for the C9 HEUI is to use good-quality engine oil and reputable brand filters and change the oil & filters using the book recommendations as an ABSOLUTE MAXIMUM. The oil and filters don't have to be Cat, I've had good results with both Mobil & Conoco CJ-4 oils and Cat/Donaldson filters. The O&M Manuals for pretty well every C-Series we have on site indicate 500-hour oil changes with only oil samples at 250 hours. My advice to anyone who wants a HEUI to live is ignore that and change oil & filter based on condition as a result of oil analysis reports. What we find here with C-series is that they go pretty well to 250 hours but probably no more than 20-30 hours after that the oil analysis looks like it fell off a cliff. Change the oil at 230-250 and according to the analysis it comes out like new. One disadvantage we have here is high-sulphur fuel and that may have influenced our oil change policy. Your results may differ.
Steven, I live just by J8 of the M5 and J1 of the M50, if you get the need I will mount the Steed, on the D6R (lgp?)series 2 you need to know the history or the fact its just had a new engine 50 hours ago unless you have a few bob, so do your homework and sort the chaff out, to find a good D6R (Lgp? 3306) you might need to try Germany or Holland for a mount worth chasing as most of these tractors in the U.K. have been around the clock twice, 1 blade I can think of only stops when it knackers up, then I have to get it sorted fast to catch up with the muck. tctractors
3306 all the way What sort of climate are u in mate the c series don't respond to cold weather very well this has more to do with the oil being thick when cold and not making the hyd part of the heiu fuel system work properly but the old 3306 is effong tough it will wear u out b4 u kill it much skin pigmentation prop Delia el and cheap and easy 2 both fix and do unspeakable things to.
Would go with 3306, or D65-12
In cooler climates use 10W-30 or 5W-20 engine oil and that problem goes away.
Most people here are going with 0w40 in the engine and even in hyd system.
Mine C9 starts aweful in the cold. It is really bad, hammering and clanging and firing on one cylinder. Takes many start cycles to get it to idle. Plugged in for hours and no change. Its really rough. When the weather is warm, no problem. Could that be fixed with a lighter oil? Ken
What oil are you using now? If it's 15w40 and below - 18 Celsius it would help to go with lighter oil. We see a lot of 0w40 used here because you can leave it in most of the summer too.
If you change the oil spec, dont forget to change the oil spec plug in key, its in the pilots handbook (Opps Man') tctractors
Mobiltech, its 15-40. CaseIH oil. Outside temp anywhere near freezing and it gets hard to start. -18C, forget about it.
IMHO your oil grade is far too heavy for your climate. Mobiltech's in your neck of the woods so I would go with his recommendations. As TC says don't forget to change the oil code plug for the new oil viscosity. It's right above the engine ECM on the LH side.
Forgive my stupidity, but what is this oil spec key plug you speak of? And whats it for?
It's basically an electrical plug in the engine wiring harness. Depending on which way it's plugged in tells the ECM what grade of oil you're using.
As CM says it's a 3-pin electrical plug (one of which will be plugged into the engine harness, the other will be hanging with a blank plug in it) that tells the engine "brain" what grade of oil you're using. Quote from the manual - "Oil Grade Plugs are used on the C-9 engine in this machine to enhance start-up in cold weather conditions. When changing oil grades, the operator must ensure that the corresponding plug is inserted into the wiring harness. The oil grade plugs can be recognized by either the identification tags or by the color of the wires. The location of the oil grade plug is directly above the engine control module (ECM) on the left side of the engine." There are 2 types of plug. One has 2 connections, the other 3. If yours has the 2 connectors it will likely not have a 0W-20 plug in it which is the one you really need if you decide to follow Mobiltech's advice and use 0W-40 oil. The 3-plug connection on the RH side of the photo is available as a spare part - Part Number 214-7170. The colours are - #3 (10W/30) green; #4 (15W/40) red; #5 (0W20) black.
Ok, I'll check it out. But I still haven't suspended my skepticism. The last time this happened I spent an afternoon looking for a bucket of steam.
This is an old thread, but Cat is working on the problem now. D6R III wrg00413 8500 hrs Again, the problem is the c9 acert doesn't like to run when cold. That is to say, it cranks and fires no problem, but after about 15 secs something kicks out, revs drop off, itll slowly idle around 200 rpm for a another say 15 secs, and slowly flutter out. Crank it again and it fires right up, then does the same thing all over again. Depending on the temp(today its about freezing) it can take many start cycles to finally get going and keep running (today it took 3) This tractor has been like this for as long as I have owned it (2000 hrs) Injector cutout test shows all is good. Tech with gauges and laptop plugged in confirm fuel and injector activation pressures are bang on. The fuel boost pump at the filters is new so that isn't an issue. Filters new. He noticed the fuel pressure sensor was reading 259psi when the engine was off. Not terrible, but changed it anyway. Also, for lack of another idea, he changed the fuel rail pressure regulator. Again, cheap enough no sense wondering if its good. After this the problem persisted, so he has run back to the shop as I type this to grab a engine speed sensor(camshaft sensor) He says the engine is calling for 800 rpm and getting about 500. No codes. past experience says the speed sensor can cause odd behavior. Grasping at straws here. The only other thing I can add is the smoke during warmup is on the black side. not a lot, but not white.
Update. He replaced the cam speed sensors. At -2C (just below freezing) it cranked and quit once, then cranked and came up to 800 rpm like it should. That is better than I would have done in the past, but not exactly fixed. Starting to see the invoices for all this work, its pretty pricey for this aimless work, for very little gain. In the end, those parts won't be an issue any time soon so that is a win. The way I look at it, it is never a bad thing to be replacing worn parts on a machine.
Update Still having hard to start issues. Not bad above freezing but below freezing, its a pita. Cranking drains bats, so you need to plug in the block heater and have a bat charger or two available to keep the bats up during all the charging. Its wacked! Anyway, little trick I figured. If you're lucky, depressing the high idle switch and holding it while cranking seems to allow the engine to come to life and slowly find its way to 800 rpm with quitting. Hold the switch for a couple minutes and it keep running. I figure it overrides something in the computer and the engine keeps running. I would love to hear ideas if anyone has any. I insist its the computer, or electrical. Problem is too repeatable to be otherwise.
I think you mean without quitting. My dump truck with an M11 will start right up but die after 30 seconds if you leave it at idle. I think it loses prime but if you rev it to 1000 RPM after it starts it will bobble a little at 30 seconds but keep running and clear up.
Hey watglen what weight engine oil are you currently running? And does machine have any cold weather packages installed intake heater ? Either larger battery capacity usually from 2 to 4 batteries. What your describing sounds like soft ware or intake temp sensor issues
OK, let see. The Oil is 15-40. It has a grid heater that the computer runs. It has auto injector on the ether bottle. has 2 big bats which are the standard bat for that unit. Technician checked into it and this rig does not have the oil viscosity plug mentioned earlier in the the thread. One other thing I should add. Its the weirdest thing One time I started cranking and it fired, ran up to 500 rpm or so, then SLOWLY worked its way to 700. The instant it rolled over 700rpm it died, rpm fell quickly, and as soon as it got to 150 on the dash, it caught itself, and began to slowly climb back up again. The instant it got to 700 it died again. This sequence continued for 7 more cycles. Finally it decided to run past 700, climbed to 800 and was what I call running. It did this all on its own, i just sat there and watched. It has done this on other mornings too. But most times it just dies and i have to recrank.
I would try new position sensor recalibrate timing and possible ecm reflash that is an odd issue your having.