Hello everyone Im heading off to check out a D6c 74A 1826 today Can someone please let me know what year it might be Thanks for the help
1965
Thanks once again Old Magnet Went and had a look all brand new under carriage and possibly one of the best examples left of this model One track adjuster has just failed on it do you know how difficult it is to replace? I realize the tract has to be split and the idler pushed forward but are they generally easy enough to replace Cheers
https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketp...oving-machinery/bulldozers/listing/3538341018 I have upgraded I still have my 17a which I won't part with for now because hey you just have to have a 17a or 2 in the shed but this deal was just to good to miss can anyone identify the scoop for me please The machine has had a full engine rebuild in the past has new feet on it and is in very good order Just the track adjuster to fix and one drum on the cable controller won't spin everything looks to be free the linkages are in good order but some help would be greatly appreciated if someone can point me in the right direction why it won't turn Cheers
Scraper looks like a Sterling or NZ copy Cable Price?, not sure of the model.
The most likely fix for the track adjuster is failed seals and yes the idler has to be removed. The seals may have been damaged caused by over extension prior to the new chains being fitted To check remove the cover and pump grease into it and look for leaks. Do both sides while you are at it. If Coughs don't have them Seal Imports will. Is the drum on the CCU that's not working used for the bowl rise/lower rope?
Hi there Thanks for that not sure which drum does what yet but sitting in the seat it is the right hand side drum not turning
That is usually the one used for the bowl hoist. Probably check the clutch adjustment first, dammed if I can remember how since it's over 50 years when I did it last. I have some recollection about turning the square nut on the side of the winch but that could be also for the brake. Others here will know. The last time I did it I was working a D7e and Birtley scoop at Waiouru.
Tones, you are correct. The square nut for clutches, brake adjusts on the band. On the clutch, left is tighter. Remember now?
Wait a minute. The DRUM should not turn unless you pull the lever. However, the clutch discs should be singing to you with the engine running on a power shift, with the master dogged in on a direct drive. If the left DRUM is turning, that clutch is stuck or the lever is stuck in.
Bloody hell that's scary or maybe just very well taught. Sometimes I have to be reminded of what I did last week.
Just a reminder to shut the engine off before attempting any adjustments on those CCU’s.
Thanks for the info everyone Its a manual drive clutchs are spinning freely but drum on the left will turn and brake when activated as it should all the linkages look to be in good order and working Fairly sure its just adjustment needed as the unit has been under cover but not used for some time I have purchased it Brand new under carriage Full re built engine less than 1000 hours ago new master clutch new radiator shes a minter My biggest problem now is do i sell my beloved D7 17A? It has about 40 to 50% U/C need to replace final drive seals from brake drum side still runs like new etc Need to adjust clutch and the clutch brake or replace - will be investigating this tomorrow What do you all think
My new D6C and Scoop
And 2 17As
Parts but she still runs
Sell as is. Vic Draper could be interested in them. He is right into historical machines, then you'll see them at the show in Wanaka.
https://m.facebook.com/groups/571928599531216/permalink/5373943575996337/ No pressure bro, 2 dozers and a scoop. Might even see you there.
Yeah will do my best be keen as
Good evening to all the good and knowledgeable people Got the D6 home this morning and have got the track adjuster out and yes its just the seals I have taken both clutch packs out of the CCU as they are running metal on metal and the main seal behind the clutch plates is non existent on both sides Can anybody tell me if there is another supplier for the clutch plates apart from Cat? Its a number 25 many thanks in advance
keep the 17A s, winch dozers always come in handy. Had seen that D6 and scoop on tme. The scoop certainly looks like a Sterling design. As very similar design to my B695, which is same as a CPC-6. Except those are hydraulic. Clutch plates are same as whats in a D6B/D5/D7 17A steering clutchs. Know several people in nz who have bought in new clutch plates from General Gear in USA. Heard nothing but good words about John Parkes who runs it. And his prices were only a qurter of what Goughs wanted. my D4E and scoop cheers Mervyn
Good morning. Yes,you can buy non genuine Cat clutch plates and wear plates.I have never had problems with them. You’ll possibly be able to keep a few spare ones out of your ccu.They can come in handy down the line.As they wear down you can put the odd extra plate in to keep the adjustment up. Ccu’s can be fun as they aren’t an exact science.Once you’ve resealed it,my advice is to keep the oil level well shy of the mark.Too much oil seems to blow seals especially in 128 ccu’s. It’s hard enough keeping a new or very well maintained ccu running.It’s even harder keeping a 50 year old worn to death one going,but it can be done.Just needs the right man in the seat
Thanks for that Lets hope im that man! Re sealed it today and getting plates in from the US of A so will see how we get on
Thanks for all the handy info I am getting the plates through John I spent the afternoon pushing with the 17A and man they are such a great old machine for moving dirt I dont know if I could part with her really We have the Black batch up by the Grannet Quarry on the Coromandel you may no of it Cheers
Yep know where you mean. Came from coromandel; got D6D doing forestry roading work, just north of the town. And spent alot of last year with D6 up at waikawau bay. I Know Marcus Ward well. Not so much the 2 girls. Yep keep the D7s; as they probably owe you nothing Cheers