On our 10Kxxxx D6C we have been having a problem with blade drifting to the left & the outside corners of the grousers actually making contact with bottom inside pin on the tilt cylinder, chewing away on the end of the pin once in a while. We took it apart today & as the pin at the blade arm was seized, heating the outside did not work so we ended up having to slice the eye that fits over the pin, to get it apart. Will weld that up again now that we have it apart. On the other end where the socket is (behind the moldboard) we were thinking that in addition to removing the shims & putting them on the other brace assembly, to lengthen that side a bit, that maybe we could get the socket cap milled down x 1/4" inch or so, as there is a lot of slop, even with the shims all out. We are thinking we need to shorten things on the left side brace in order to pull the blade left. Is this a good idea? We could cut the brace in the middle & shorten it a bit too, then weld it back together.
This the eye end welded up again. We thought we will reposition shims on both braces to try to pull the blade in to the desired position. Plan B if that does not work.
Once we put everything back together with moving shims around on the diagonal braces + adding a homemade one (3/8" thick) in one place, we have no more problems with the lower tilt cyl pin rubbing on the tracks.
Yair . . . Metalman55 . You are doing all the right things, That style of blade needs constant adjustment/maintenance to keep them reasonably tight. Once they get a bit of slack they seem to quickly become worse, I absolutely hate them, but probably like you was stuck with what I had. Cheers.