Hey, So I have this final drive leak which appears to be on the inside of the final. Wondering what this job entails? I have never tore one down and im assuming I'll run into press work?
You will need some special tooling to pull the outboard support and sprocket. If it has a ripper it will be easier to lift it up of the swing frame. Here is one but it had more than just a leaking hub it needed clutch flange seals and ham case had to come off. If it’s just the sprocket seal you won’t have to go this far
Thanks 8v71. I just got back from investigating further. It appears to be coming from the inside sprocket and dripping down the case onto the track. Sounds like that one is not to bad to replace.
Still will need a puller/press and correct adapters to get the sprocket on and off.
What’s your serial number?
69U710 is the serial number. I think I have a lead on a guy that has the tooling to do it.
You should read my D6D thread. It will be pretty much the same. HeavyEquipmentForums
Well,I’ll get shot to pieces by some,but you could monitor that before going into it. I’ve had quite a few D8’s leak like that and clear up.Sometimes they’ll leak if parked abit off kilter,sometimes if parked over winter.I’ve seen them dry up too. It’s a sure sign that something is going on inside your final drive that will need treatment at some point in time. It may last you years in that old D6C before it gets any worse. My advice is to watch it over the next few months and possibly look at the magnet. If you do decide to go into it,don’t kid yourself that it will be ‘just a seal’. You’ll be into some serious financial,mental and abit of physical pain even if things are in good shape. If you’ve got money and you have a strong need or fondness for the D6,then get into it,both sides,steering clutches and crow wheel too. Best of luck sir
Thanks, Nicky. I did talk with my mechanic friend who has the tooling. He was saying the same exact thing you are. So I will keep an eye on it and hope for the best. It has sat for awhile so that definitely could be part of it. Thanks again!
You’re welcome, These are old hobbie horses,but cost just as much to repair as a new ones if you go looking at them too close. TC Tractors will have a more informed and experienced opinion than me as he’s been into literally thousands of final drives over the years including some of mine.
For what it is worth, I have a John Deere 550G that has one final drive that leaks oil if I fill it all the way to the fill hole like it is supposed to be. When I was considering whether or not to tear into it, I read something on here that was pretty much the same advice as Nicky above. Mine would leak down to about an inch below the hole and then stop leaking. I also drained the drive and did not find any significant metal shavings, it actually looked very clean. I have been running it like that now for several years. It is just a farm dozer and I monitor it closely. I also find that the more I use the dozer, the leak nearly stops completely.
Yeah lots of fun things can happen in the rear of these old cats.
Leaks from the back seal group is usually heading 1 way, but you could pop off the front plate and check that things have been getting greased, as a lack of it can snap off the pins holding the dead shaft nut lock plate, this will undo the nut allowing movement within the taper roller bearings, if the nut is good the hub pre-load might need sorting possibly curing your leak, but it would be best to burst it all down and have a look inside at the inner bearing, its not a bad job but I will say the parts can take some hunting out now, if the 1 side has failed its always best to do both f/drives as they have both been on the same route.