On our D6C which has the 10' Straight Tilt Blade, Ser # 95E7151, we broke the rod end off of it today, on the end of the hyd cylinder. Looks like it had been partially fractured for a while. I looked in our parts book & come up with a part for the end of the rod called a "Ball Stud", pt# 3F6492 which appears to be a replaceable end part. Does it just thread into the end of the rod assembly? Our local Cat dealer located one 3 days away, so the part is still available. Is changing the end portion only the way to go?
Ball end is welded to the cylinder rod. It's either that or replace the rod assembly.
New "ball stud" is ordered so will try that option first. The parts book shows it as a separate entity, but no diagram.......is it sort of a "socket weld" affair that just fits up & welds onto the end of the rod assembly?
Yes, but depending on where it broke there might not be much of a stem left to socket weld. Might have to build it up some first.
We would bevel out the broken joint & glue it back with 7018 rods . Look close at the socket joint itself . My dozers have shims between the boss & plate . The rod end snapped off for a reason . Some sort of bind on it . They need a little play in them . Possibly to tight ?
Yair . . . You beat me to it td25c , If it has to be welded anyway why not reweld the piece that's there? . . . assuming it's not worn to hell and gone and even then some judiciously applied weld and a bit of grinding can be more cost effective than new bits . . . good point about the shims Cheers.
td25-superglue! Good one, td!
Ok, so we have it "super glued" back together the 7018 way & what a nasty job that was!! The break was right under where the cap was, so reaching in to prep the joint & weld was not pretty at all. Any how, a little confession to make.........2 weeks ago we tightened up the "loose joints" at the top on both sides because of the excessive slop......guess we had it a little too tight.........hope we don't have to learn that lesson again!! Still going to keep the order for the new ball/stud & cap alive, as conditions did not permit the kind of weld that we wanted to do. Will have a spare set if it breaks again.
The accepted way to determine the quantity of shims in a joint like that is to gently & evenly tighten up the bolts by hand until the ball just starts to bind. At that point make sure the cap is dead square to the casting on the base and see how many shims you can get into the joint. Add 1 more shim to whatever number you came up with and install that quantity of shims in the joint, then tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
You need to free up the other end At least remove the compacted dirt so the cylinder can work. After you replace the pin and bushing cut a hole in the mounting bracket to allow the dirt somewhere to go.
LOL Jim ! What's bad is when you start looking at jobs sizing them up depending on how many pounds of electric glue needed .
Nice work on the repair Metalman 55 . I might fab up a 1/8 inch thick shim so you could get rid of the washers . Those joints need a little "play" in them . Most time on a bent or broken cylinder rod the culprit is a stiff joint or pin .
7018 electric glue! Excellent! (PS, your FWD needs a snow plow...great truck)
That's a good idea Jim mounting the snow plow . Better yet, I could spend winter months in Southern California & let someone else deal with the snow . Beginning to like that thought .