Looking a a 85 d6d, frame hours unknown, rebuilt trans, new tourque, suposed to have rebuilt motor. The undercarige looks good. Any problem areas I should look for, Thanks
check heat with laser on each exhaust port at start up should be around same temp for injector problems which are not bad. take off radiator cap make sure no burping for head problems. oil cap off for blow by. run for an hour or so to get it hot dig hard. We have a c and a d just a few years apart in them 3306 engine is great and reliable. I have the d in now for cracked head operators fault' . easy to work on and parts are still easy to get If it runs good it probably is. good luck.
D6d Two things Id add is check the transmission suction screen; and drop the oil out of the final drives to check them. Theyre a good dozer easy to fix, parts readily available and no electronic crap on them. Cheers Merv
I can't help with any specific warts that your year of machine might have had, but I can offer a couple of general tips that will help you determine whether the "rebuilt xxxx" is BS or not... One thing I try to do with a machine is to be there and watch it doing a cold start, especially on a day with temperatures down around freezing. It will tell you how much BS is in the "rebuilt motor" comment. Don't use the glow plugs before rolling it over. If it is rebuilt it shouldn't care, it'll start anyway, if it has some time under its belt it might be reluctant to start and if it is pure BS you'll need to give it a sniff of ether or toast up the glow plugs. My 1979 D6D needs the ether! (Don't mix ether and glow plugs!!!) Check the trans and torque for slippage by standing on the brakes and seeing what how the motor bogs down in each gear. There should be lots of connection between the motor and the brakes in all gears it the torque/trans are in good shape. I have a D4D that some bozo brazed a crack in the torque converter housing "in frame", after having only drained the oil out of it. All the carbon flakes plugged the pump intake screen and made the machine very sluggish--it could just about go full throttle in the higher gears with the brakes on. But it got me the machine cheap! Here's a link to a D6D discussion on a slightly older machine (My machine) There are lots of good comments in this thread from the old foxes on this forum that have forgot more than I know!!: Good luck on your purchase investigations. Jon.
I just got a D5H LGP Series II and the last gear light on the right side turns on then the fault light lights up. New to this type of equipment so what should I check?
The D6D is usualy fitted with the direct injection engine with no heater plugs, you can only check out a tractor " so much " by looking around it, the real test would be in working it under average conditions for as long as you are allowed to, the most important item would be the transmission and final drives to check out, the parts are all easy to get hold of, the running gear is the other area that is best bought by someone else, with you getting the benefit of their expence, the engines are very cheap to rebuild etc and can be done in frame easily, the D6C/D is probably the cheapest tractor to repair and service for its size around.
Also if you were permitted to do things like remove the magnetic plugs from final drives, or the magnetic suction screen from the power train filter, that would tell you a lot. Not knowing how long it is since the tractor last worked, look at things like filters. Are they new or new-ish ..? That could give you an insight into how well it's been maintained. Another key regarding the quality of repair/maintenance work done on it would be signs of any "bodges" to electrical wiring, things like non-standard fasteners, home-made parts, etc. That could indiciate that someone just wanted to get the machine going again without much thought to "doing it right". If you can see stuff like that outside components, what might they be like inside if former owner(s) adopted the same attitude to having components rebuilt (I'm thinking here about parts re-use to keep costs down) like the transmission, etc, which it apparently has had ..? The "Mk 1 Eyeball" can tell you a lot if you just listen to what it's saying.
run it for more than one hour, depending on ambient temps, to get it warm and see if trans will cool. If it does and the finals don't leak (bearings out, took the seal with them), motor doesn't blowby much, it will in all probability run for a long time. If the owner nixes you running it then you can keep looking. These are a wonderful size tractor and I sure like mine.