Bought this dozer last week. Ran it 3 times for a couple hours. Last time I ran it yesterday it ran great. Went back yesterday evening and now it won’t start. Cranks but won’t turn over. Could there be a safety switch that could be keeping it from starting?
That makes no sense. which one of the follwing conditions do you have.? 1. Crank, No Start. Engine turns over on the starter but does not fire. 2. No Crank. Starter does not turn. Does the instrument panel light up and beep at you when you turn the key to the ON position.? Lastly please post a Serial Number. With 10 different models of D6K it makes looking up information easier.
Started right up with a shot of starting fluid. Ran for about 45 min to an hour, then died. Now won’t start again. Nearly started twice but didn’t.
Starter turns. Beeps, you can hear it priming. Model 0998 s/n C8n23570
That's the Serial Number of the engine but never mind. The tractor S/N is RST00998. Stupid question. Is the parking brake switch #18 in the "OFF" position by any chance.?
The brake is in the on position. I’ve bled the lines and there was fuel going to all of them. And it wasn’t actually out of diesel but I went ahead and checked them anyways. Still wouldn’t start, squirted a little shot of starting fluid and it started right up. Ran it for about an hour, the it died and won’t start again. Turns over but won’t start.
I think the next step is to get into the Monitor and have a look what Diagnostic Codes are present. Refer to the instructions on the attachment. Report back with your findings.
Welcome to Deep South Nige! I know you’ve been to Alabama, I live and work here for 12 years now - I still can’t figure out what they mean about “cranking”!!!
What thing got in it, Nige? 3126E?
C6.6. Based on the symptoms of firing off with a dash of go juice when cold but won't restart when hot I'm already having bad thoughts about common rail injection parts............
It’s darned c6.6. Ether might have been wrong move on that one.
Yyeeep!
Ok well went out this morning. Started right up no help. Ran all day, never missed a beat. It will be a couple days now before it gets ran again now. Will be interesting to see if starts then.
Considering that the tractor is new to you I would suggest that you carry out maintenance right the way through the fuel system, just in case the previous owner was not so careful regarding this. At least that will eliminate the basics from the equation. I'm assuming that you don't have an Operation & Maintenance Manual (you really should get one BTW) so attached are the relevant parts. Start at the fuel tank cap and work right through the system to the secondary fuel filter.
Cat is pretty good with on-board diagnostics. If it doesn’t leave you codes - usually it means you are loosing power or ground to the ECM, and it thinks you shut it down with a key. I would go on the limb and assume you have fuse loose or oxidised. I would start with checking, cleaning and making sure everything is snug
There are 4 ECMs on that tractor. If any number less than all four went off-line simultaneously, even temporarily, while the key was ON then Diagnostic Codes for lack of communication with the other ECMs on the machine that were still powered would be set.
True!
Ignition switch?!?! Maybe?!?! Power distribution? What is that topology looks like? What chances all Ecms powering up from same power relay or power wire?
No codes is very strange.
To add - if any one or more ECMs went offline then the tractor would be in a "No Crank" situation, not a "Crank, No Start" one, which is what the OP was experiencing. Personally I would still suggest to go right the way through the fuel system as a first step, if only to eliminate it. Also bearing in mind that the OP has just bought the tractor and the previous maintenance is a complete unknown quantity. It would also be a worthwhile thing to do IMHO because we all know how intolerant the expensive parts of a common-rail fuel injection system are to water/contamination. Spend a few $$ on filters, etc, now to potentially save 000's of $$ later.........
I agree completely. Still should pop some kinda “low fuel pressure” or “water in fuel” message or code
I'm not 100% convinced that it isn't. To start with if there is a "Crank, no Start" condition it should pop an E225 "engine overcrank" Event apart from anything else.
Pretty much possible, “Clicker box” ain’t gonna help with that one! Got to go “ET”!
Not necessarily. Codes/Events can be accessed via the Monitor Panel. It just has to be done the right way. See the attachment in Post #7 on Page 1.
Let’s see if OP can manage that.
How many seconds of crank does it take before " E225 " Overcrank logs in. I usually count 1001, 1002, 1003 and up for my cheap clock to measure time. Just wondering. Simon C
No concrete information I'm afraid. I would have thought somewhere up around 10-15 seconds maybe.?
I usually stop cranking at 10 seconds, to let the heat build on the piston, then if it has a primer give couple pumps and try again. Easier on starter also. Less heat build up. Simon C
Wow that is extremely helpful. I was just getting ready to order all the filters for it.
Update on dozer: Have not had any more problems. Thanks for all the advice.
Thanks for updating. Most people don't bother which doesn't help for anyone coming along later who looks at the thread.
I do have one quick question. How many filters does the dozer have. Went to Cat and they gave me 7. I’ve got 4 changed but it feels like I’m missing some.
Ok, what are the four that have you changed and I'll try to help you figure out the other three. Also if you can list the Part Numbers of the three that you haven't changed that would also help. This is another reason why you need to O&M Manual. It has illustrated procedures of filter changing.
If it is running now we might not here back from him Nige until the next breakdown. You know how it is. Simon C