I have a 2008 Cat D6N with leaking hydraulic lift cylinders. Planning on installing new kits myself. Should I buy from Caterpillar or aftermarket? This machine is new to me and if it ever warms up here I will have a lot more questions once I start working this machine. Also the interior light is missing and the parts guy at Caterpillar couldn't find one or even a part #. The operator manual clearly shows the interior light. Anyone have a # for the light? Thanks
Another question, is it necessary to hone the cylinder like when rebuilding an engine? I have an engine cylinder hone and could maybe use it but need to extend it.
To get good info a Serial Number would be a good start. There are at least 20 different models of D6N. Info regarding the hydraulic cylinders to follow once you supply a Serial Number. However - does the illustration below bear any relation to the hole where your missing interior dome lamp ought to be.? If so the Part Number for the complete assembly is 3E-6389.
I like the Cat seal kits because it’s easy to purchase them and the quality is consistently good. I’d wait until you take the cylinders apart before ordering kits. That machine may have OR ( reman ) cylinders on it. They could be oversized, thus a standard seal kit may not work. Yes, honing is best practice. Also, measuring the cylinder bore for diameter and for taper is important. Looking for a bulge in the middle of the cyl and for deep scratches. Typically, a standard sized cylinder can be honed up to .014” and still be able to use a standard seal kit. Cleanliness is super important if honing is done. Lots of scrubbing and hot water or that metal will contaminate your entire system. If the cylinder bores are messed up, sometimes it makes sense to purchase reman tubes. .030 or .060 over. Nobody got time fo dat inspection, measuring or honing nonsense. Just install the most affordable seal kit available, zap the nut to three uga-dugas and hope for the best. YMMV
I like Cat seals you can tell the quality when they are in your hand If you want cheaper the yellowmark or general purpose Cat seal kits are very competitive but not as nice As a second I like Hurcules Seals usually on non cat stuff though Here is an example today I need tilt cyl seals for a 980 Cat gets $203 with wear rings, Hercules $242 no wear rings Fast lift parts drops ships from hurcules exact same kit $167 I'm not buying aftermarket to save $33 and still not have wear rings I Never hone cylinders its exactly why I quit using the hydraulic shop they consistently overcharged for honing cylinders that were probably in better shape then after they touched them Yes bad things can happen in there sometimes honing may help a scratch usually its cutting the tube off if they are beat up no reason for any of that nonsense just because the seals are dried up It will be easier to crack the gland loose with the cylinder installed on the dozer
True dat, Jonus302. A bozo can mess up a perfectly good cylinder with a hone. Good & bad, the nuebie of the hyd shop often gets stuck on the cyl bench and doesn’t apply any critical thinking skills. Everything gets honed. Even oversized when it doesn’t need it. Especially on a slow day.
Look at the piston and piston seals, no scratchy piston, no scratchy cylinder. That's not by the book, and I work on old stuff that the seals age out, but it's not your piston seals that are leaking there. Unless you have a filter or debris that says otherwise, I'd use the cylinder and piston as is. If you need help breaking the gland loose, just ask.
I had no idea that there were so many different D6Ns. Mine is serial # CAT00D6NCDJY01329. I have resealed cylinders before successfully without honing them. No use to start honing now unless like you say if there are scratches or such. I used to own and operate a D5M and if I recall the interior light was in the same spot as this empty hole above my right side. There are 2 wires sticking out of this square hole. Thanks for now
I looked - there are actually 25 different D6N Serial Number prefixes which is why it's never a good idea to guess which one of them an owner has. So your cab dome lamp is a 107-6032. See below. If you say there are 2 wires poking out of the hole in the headliner then your cab wiring could be missing the mating half of the connector that I think is part of the fly lead on the dome lamp.
Per machine Serial Number your bulldozer Lift Cylinder is a 110-3269. Parts list attached. The OEM Cat seal kit is a 241-7584. This........... also to use the correct wrench rather than a hammer & drift to remove the gland like many people seem to.
Thanks Nige! Makes everything a lot easier for me.
It finally warmed up enough to work on the cylinders. Surprised how easy to take apart. I found the right wrench for the job. Well maybe not the right one but works better than the punch and hammer. Used Cat brand kits.
I changed hydraulic oil, in tank filter and spin on filter by the test ports. In the engine compartment is another hydraulic filter. I didn't have the number when I went to Cat and the parts guy said only 2 hydraulic filters. I haven't started the machine yet.
That's the steering filter. in view of the fact that all the hydraulic/steering oil comes from the same tank it should really also be changed seeing as you have already changed everything else.
I haven't found time until now to work on the D6N. When I bought it last winter it had a service code and in the 3 hours pushing snow sometimes the alarm went off and exclamation started flashing. Now in summer the exclamation is always on. Thinking there is a wire shorting out and when frozen doesn't move around much but summer is opposite.
Could someone tell me what these numbers mean? Thanks
"036" refers to the Product Link system but not sure why it would come up. "E0232.2" indicates a high water level in the fuel/water separator. Drain the water and if that does not silence the alarm check the installation/operation of the high water level detection switch mounted on the fuel/water separator bowl.
I purchased 3 new fuel filters so I might as well go ahead and change them. Either the manual or my eyes are not clear but I'm thinking there is a certain way to change filters like maybe in series or one at a time or just take them all off and replace?
The shutoff valve at the tank has to be turned off to stop the flow of fuel so you might as well do all three filters at once. Attached are the instructions including for priming the fuel system afterwards. Your tractor should be equipped with an electric priming pump which makes the job easier. A few suggested DONT'S......... DON'T prefill the new filters with fuel. DON'T forget to install the necessary gaskets/seals/o-rings on all the new elements when you install them. Some will have o-rings bonded to the filter, on others they will be separate. DON'T under or overtighten the filters. Follow the instructions stamped on each filter regarding how much it has to be turned after the element contacts the filter head.
I changed filters and let it run for 5 minutes. So far so good no code or lit up exclamation. Previous owner apparently changed filters 135 hours before but in May of 2018 according to what was written on the old filter. Thanks Nige!
So the buzzer and exclamation are still coming on now and again. I'm not sure but it seems that they come on when I'm turning. No service code. Once when I parked the service code came on and the following numbers 623.07, 113, and 70.02. When I started working again the service code disappeared and didn't come on again. The machine works very good. The only thing I notice is when in auto kick down it is a bit hard downshift but maybe my deceleration needs some work but I doubt it. Thanks
Parking brake and direction switch are results of internet search. Am I on the right track?
623.07 relates to the direction switch. 70.02 relates to the parking brake switch. Troubleshooting procedures attached. Thinking back to your question about the steering filter I suggest that you get hold of an Operation & Maintenance Manual if you haven't already got one yet. Look on eBay for SEBU8124 or you can download one from Cat for around $50.
I bought the maintenance and operations manual. I'll look into the trouble shooting. Thanks
Is there any plastic tab or release to disconnect the harness from the ecm? Both connectors are solid and I'm scared to break something.
Do you mean disconnect the harness from the ECM.? Each connector has an Allen screw through the centre (arrowed), 4mm if my memory serves me right. You'll have to go digging in between the wires to find it.
I replaced the park rocker switch inside the tiller. Cat said I could clean up the direction switch and that there are 2 microswitches there. I'm still inspecting it to understand what to clean. Sure hope that it cleans up nicely and will center properly. A new switch is only sold as a whole unit for $4600.
Sure would be nice to replace this switch. Tiny thing with 3 wires. It seems a bit loose.
DmanD6N. For $4600 I would spend some time trying to fix it. If you can take it apart to check the micro switches you might be able to check them to see if they are faulty. They should have some sort of part numbers on them. I replaced the two micro switches on my Volvo L90 loader shifter. Cost me about $20 for the switches and a little soldering.
I'm hoping to fix something for sure. There are 3 wire harnesses. One should be for gear selection. Thanks James
Did the result of diagnosing the Diagnostic Codes that I posted earlier indicate a problem with the switch in the directional control.?
If the switch responsible for the 623.07 Code is proved to be defective then it is available separately to the steering/direction control lever - Part Number 110-7882. Item #6 in the illustration below. I would think at a lot cheaper than $4600...........
Your Diagnostic Code is nothing to do with gear selection. It is related to a limit switch that tells the ECM whether the position of the direction control lever is in forward, neutral, or reverse. But BEFORE going buying a new switch - and regarding 623.07 - did you do the test procedure below..? Conditions Which Generate This Code: This diagnostic code is recorded when status of the direction switch is wrong. When the control lever is in REVERSE, the Normally Open circuit is grounded and the Normally Closed circuit is open. When the contro lever is in FORWARD or NEUTRAL, the Normally Open circuit is open and the Normally Closed circuit is grounded. A diagnostic code is recorded when the status of the direction switch does not match the signal from the position sensor (direction selector). In these circumstances there will be no backup system for the position sensor (direction selector) if the sensor fails. Note: Ensure that the CID 0623 FMI 07 is on hold and that the diagnostic code indicator shows "SERV CODE". Test Step 1. CHECK THE DIRECTION SWITCH. Check the screws that hold the direction switch to the console for the FTC. Tighten any loose screws. If the problem persists, loosen the screws on the direction switch and rotate the switch slightly. Tighten the screws. Change the direction of the machine and then determine if the diagnostic code is still present. If the problem still exists, loosen the screws on the direction switch. Rotate the switch in the opposite direction slightly. Tighten the screws. Change the direction of the machine and then determine if the diagnostic code is still present. ONLY if after Steps 1 thru 5 the Code has not been eliminated would I replace the switch. In fact if you read the Steps closely the most likely culprit is - loose screws........ The 2nd most likely is the switch slightly out of adjustment. $4600 for a fix - my ***.....!!!
This is the location of the switch in question indicated by the red arrow as seen on your handle. The black box to the left of it in the photo (blue arrow) is the position sensor for the direction control. The switch functions as a backup for the sensor if the sensor was to fail. So if the switch is not working correctly there is no backup and the ECM cries wolf.
Looks like that switch has been looked at before. Some scars on the screws. Even though the screws are tight there is still movement with screw and wire. The flat metal that activates the switch is sloppy. The 3 screws mentioned in troubleshooting were tight. I loosened them and tried to rotate the direction control but there is next to no movement. If the screw holes were slotted then one could expect to make adjustments.
1. With the switch installed and with the direction control lever in the NEUTRAL position measure the resistance between Pins B & C (Grey & Pink) and Pins A & C (Orange & Pink). Confirm that B to C has continuity and A to C is open circuit. 2. Move the switch to the REVERSE position. The readings should change, B to C should be O/C and A to C should have continuity. 3. Move the direction control back to NEUTRAL and check that the continuity measurements are still the same as you measured in Step 1. 4. Move the direction control to the FORWARD position. The continuity should remain the same as Step 1. Do you mean the blade indicated by the arrow.? Define sloppy. Is the blade moving/rotating on the rivets at each end.? One rivet is visible in the photo right next to the arrow. By chance did you remove the switch and check how much force needs to be applied to the button on the end to operate it.? Should be next to nothing unless possibly it is partially seized up inside.
I'll get on the testing you suggested. The blade has some side to side movement. It's not necessary to remove the switch to see if the blade engages the green button as there is enough play in the position shown in this picture.
The green button gives a click when engaged. I'm kind of rooting for the switch to be faulty because if it's good then what.
Right. Gotcha. I've seen those switches before in wheel loaders, they are known for being a bit flimsy to say the least. The small difference in diameter between the screws and the holes in the switch generally provides enough wiggle room to adjust it, it only needs a hair if it needs anything. That little roller should only need the slightest of finger pressure to operate it, and I mean really small. The fact it's clicking means the guts inside are moving but that does not mean that they are doing what they are supposed to be doing. Do the continuity tests first and then lets go from there when you have more information.
Here's another thought. It's obvious from the damage to the screws that someone has been in there before. What if they reconnected the switch wiring wrong.? Compare the wiring on the illustration below with how the wires are connected to the terminals on the switch. Start at the machine harness and make sure that the wires are Grey-to-Grey, Orange-to-Orange, and Pink-to-Pink at the 3-pin connector. Then move to how the wires are connected to the switch. The terminals on the switch will be either marked 1, 2, 3 as per the illustration, or possibly COM, NO, and NC. I can't tell from your photo. Terminal 2 is COM, Terminal 1 is NC, and Terminal 3 is NO.
Com 1 is pink, NO3 is orange and NC2 is grey. Wires do match colorswithmachineharness.
1) Resistance measured between grey and pink reads up to 17 then goes down to 8. B and C have continuity. A to C is open. 2) In reverse A and C have continuity. 3) When moved back to neutral from reverse continuity is lost between grey and pink unless I go to forward position first and then neutral. After that there is again continuity in neutral. Measuring resistance again after these tests shows only 1 no matter what forward, neutral or reverse position or multimeter setting.
If the contacts were fully closed resistance should measure less than 1 ohm, ideally less than 0.1 ohm if the contacts are in really good condition. The variable resistance readings sound like the switch is playing silly buggers. I'd replace it as a start and go from there. At least you have confirmed that the switch is wired correctly.
Switch is in stock and the price is $51.94. 2 1/2 hour round trip to get it so not sure if I'll do it today. Thanks Nige!
At least that price is better than $4600...!! Fingers crossed that it sorts the problem for you.
I installed the switches and tried it out. Not exactly the Nebraska test but pushed and changed direction a lot for an hour and a half. No dreaded buzzer and no service code displayed. So far so good. What would I do without you Nige? Thanks!
Where do I send the invoice for $4,600..?
Manitoba Canada