serial # 5LN02787 I have oil leaking out of the endcap/gland on both my blade lift cylinders .Oil is leaking around rod. Cylinder # 1278931 I believe. Is this a repair I can do here at farm or is it better to take to Cat shop? I have done a lot of cylinders but never anything this big yet. Concerned that it looks like I will need to remove the piston from rod to get the gland off to replace seals. Cat Parts shows a big 1.5" bolt in there that I am betting is pretty tight. Looks like seals are 289-2937 9X-4611 2K-6830 8T-0785 225-3281 289-2948 1K-6985 Is there a kit that I could not find for just the end cap/gland or just do the whole cylinder while it is apart ? Any insight is appreciated.
That is correct according to what I can see. Do the whole cylinder while it is apart would be my suggestion. Once the rod and head assembly have been removed from the cylinder the most work required is to remove/reinstall the bolt holding the piston, so you might as well fit new piston seals while you are at it. A complete cylinder seal kit is 229-2626 which may contain updated individual parts compared to those shown in the Parts Manual. I would suggest leave the cylinder barrel on the tractor and simply extract the guts out of it. It should be relatively simple to attach slings to a cylinder to hold it horizontal and pull the internals out of it. They assembly weighs about 110 pounds. I'm assuming here that you have a lift truck, telehandler, or tractor with fork attachment available.? You will need an air hammer or similar to at minimum loosen the gland nut on the end of the cylinder. (The service manual procedure calls for a chain wrench.) The specified torque on the bolt securing the piston is 2700 ± 300 lb ft Once you have removed the internals then you have the option to either take them to a hydraulic shop and have the seals installed, or have a bash at it yourself.
Thanks for the info Nige and the seal kit number. I have a crane on my service truck and an air hammer along with a large cylinder gland spanner wrench.Even a chain wrench here somewhere I am betting I can get it apart. Leaving the barrel on the tractor is a good idea Now the 2700 ft/lb of torque could be a little iffy. I first read that as 270 to 300 and thought that's not a problem at all but then see I missed 0 in there. Thanks again
multiplier helps also put the rod eye in the drawbar
Often it's easier to just have a hydraulic shop do the seals. They have cylinder benches that can remove the bolt and also torque it to the 2700lb./ft. torque accurately.