I am new to the forum and hope I am doing this right. I recently purchased a D6R AAX00576, 2004 model. I have only put maybe 2 hours on it so far just pushing dirt and getting the feel of the tractor. Yesterday while pushing on an uphill incline the following light would come on (EngineFailure/Malfunction – g00680889 ) When I would back up and get on somewhat level ground, it would go off. After a few times of this, the engine seemed to loose power and died. It took me a few minutes to start back up, so I parked it. I read the codes and these were the ones it was showing: 0360 009102, 113 029802, 036 16411. Can anybody tell be if the codes relate with the engine turning off. And, can someone let me know what the codes mean? Any help would be greatly appreciated, I am new to the electronic dozers.
Do you remember if the "SERV CODE" icon was illuminated in the lower message window, or is it illuminated now..? The three codes could be Logged which means they were there once but are not there now. To check for Active Codes scroll through the three Codes again and see if the SERV CODE icon lights up with any or all of them and post back your findings Your Codes are as follows:- 036 091 02 - Throttle Position Sensor, signal erratic. intermittent, or incorrect 113 298 02 - Service Brake Pedal Switch, signal erratic. intermittent, or incorrect 036 164 11 - Injection Actuation Pressure Sensor, other failure mode (usually because more than one failure mode is associated with the component in question) The IAP sensor is the most likely one. if you were working on a slope have you checked the engine oil level, and if necessary slightly over-filled it as recommended by the O&M Manual..? The hydraulic pump that supplies the pressure for the fuel injection system could have been starving for oil when the tractor was on a slope.
Yes the "SERV CODE" came on whenever the warning light came on. Also, the oil is just past full. Noticed that when i idle down to shift from fwd to rev or rev to fwd, is when it wants to die. it takes 3-4 seconds for the engine to respond(like it's stuck in low idle) at low idle, then it begins to idle up. If I keep the idle slightly higher it does not want to stall . I also checked the Transmission oil and it is between full and add, it wouldn't be that sensitive would it?
So the SERV CODE icon does not stay permanently, just flashes on when the warning light comes on ..? Are you checking the transmission oil level with the engine idling and the oil at normal operating temperature..? There is a note in the manual to the effect that the transmission can be overfilled by up to 10% when working on slopes, so filling the oil up to the Full mark would be a good first step.
First, thank you very much for the help! SERV CODE light just comes on when warning light begins to flash and goes off when flashing stops. The warning light is only coming on under a heavy load or when pushing up an incline. Checking oil with engine at normal operating temp and at low idle and filled to full mark. Ran it for about 3 hours and warning light still coming on.
Back to your OP, it seems as though pushing uphill is when the Fault Light & SERV CODE appears. With the engine oil pump being at the front of the engine oil will tend to run away from the pump pickup when the tractor is facing uphill. Try filling the engine oil level about 1/2" to 1" over the Full mark measured the same way as the transmission, i.e. operating temperature and engine idling. One last question. You scroll through the three Diagnostic Codes that you posted above, does the SERV CODE indicator light up for any or all of them..? If the answer is no then I think it might be a good idea to erase them, just to see what the machine might generate in future when the Fault Light comes on.
Do not over fill your engine oil Cat says oil level on full mark is good for 45 degree slope. Overfilling will cause over heating and engine damage. Bob
A good point, although I'd say "might" rather than will, especially for the purpose of a few minutes testing to see if it makes any difference to the symptoms. To the OP. Have you changed any oils, filter, etc, on the tractor since you acquired it..? I wonder if it's worth putting pressure gauges on the fuel system and engine oil pressure to see what they do when the engine loses power..?
Ran machine for about 6 hr today and warning light continued to come on as it has been. I have not operated a D6r prior to this, but is it normal for the rpm's to drop down as low as 1700 when pushing a load, seems like a lot. Today while pushing a load, oil pressure warning light came on, buzzer went off. I shut the machine down, checked oil, any leaks, etc. and then started right back up and didn't happen the rest of day. any thoughts? I am going to change fuel filters to see if that makes any difference. I feel that it may be starving for fuel under load and engine does not recover quick enough, which gives me the loss of power when shifting. Although it loses power when shifting with no load.
The symptoms you describe above are starting to get worrying. I take it from your last comment about changing the fuel fuel filters, that you have not changed any filters or fluids since you acquired the tractor. If that is the case then I suggest that you should change the engine oil and filter as well as the fuel filters. i'd go further and suggest that you use Cat filter elements just to eliminate any possiblity of doubt. For the same reason I would suggest to use a good quality branded engine oil, not something generic from the local parts house. While you are in there it would be a good idea to drain any accumulated water and sediment from the fuel tank.
As I suggested in my post #8 above, it's now time to get some test equipment on both the engine oil and fuel systems and see what happens to the engine oil pressure & the fuel pressure when the problem occurs. Could you do that yourself or can you get help from someone to do it..?
We need to be aware that the alarm will sound for both fault codes and event codes. If you're not aware of the distinction, fault codes occur with an electrical fault in the system, for example an open circuit to a switch or a bad signal from a sensor. Event codes are set when something abnormal mechanically occurs, for example low oil pressure or high temperature somewhere. I think you may be getting an event alarm instead of a fault alarm. As far as I know you can only retrieve logged and active fault codes through the monitoring system. Active event codes should show up whilst they are occurring, but to see see logged event codes you need ET. In post #5 you say that the engine dies, essentially, under heavy load, both going uphill and level. That for me sort of pushes an oil pressure problem further down the list of probabilities. If it was only pushing uphill that the fault happened, I would maybe think differently. So we're now left with two main things that are, in general, affected by heavy load; temperature and fuel pressure. The way you describe the behaviour of the engine, to me, shouts fuel starvation. In the absence of someone with a computer with ET to see what logged error codes you have, I agree with Nige. Monitor the engine oil and fuel pressure with gauges. Also in your OP you mention a code g00680889. Can you elaborate on that or post a photo of it when it shows up?
Chris, I think g00680889 is actually the illustration number from the O&M Manual for the illustration of the Fault Code indicator. See below as an example, I can't find the actual illustration.
Ah. Roger that.
Continuing on from CMark's post #10 above, and bearing in mind that the SERV CODE icon is not illuminated permanently at this point, I think it's time to suggest erasing the three Diagnostic Codes mentioned in your OP that are currently logged in the memory of the Monitoring System in order to eliminate them from the diagnosis. If after erasing them they don't come back even though the low power symptoms continue then it would be more likely that the root cause of the problem is something physical rather than something electronic. To erase the Diagnostic Codes is relatively simple,even though the spiel below might not look that way. It will require 2 short (3-6" approx) pieces of automotive electrical cable to act as jumpers. Splice one end of both wires together. When spliced it has to be able to enter the Service Tool connector and make contact with Pin 4 (ground), so it may be necessary to cut down the wires to make it fit. There will be almost no current going through the wires so they can be as small a diameter as you like. The connector is a square grey or black 4-pin and is located behind the operator seat. See illustrations below. The connector should have pin numbers marked on it but I suggest that you identify the various wires by their numbers to be 100% sure. The numbers are stamped every 6" or so along the length of the wire so they should be easy enough to spot if you slide the harness sheath back a little. Here's a diagram of the wiring of the connector. The three wires you need to be concerned with are 201, 290, & 291. There will be a wire in Pin 3 of the connector but it is not relevant for this procedure. 1. Turn the key switch to the ON position and power up the dash panel. 2. Connect the spliced end of the jumper cable assembly to Pin 4 (wire 201 Ground). 3. Connect the free end of one jumper to Pin 1 (wire 290 Service) and the free end of the other to Pin 2 (wire 291 Clear). 4. In the message window you will see the icon "-0-". After a couple of seconds this will change to "-1-", followed by "-2-", and "-3-". When "-3-" appears remove the jumper cables from Pins 1 & 2 but leave the spliced end in Pin 4. You are now in Service Mode. TIP: If the display changes from "-0-" to "-1-" and refuses to go any further, disconnect the spliced end from the Ground Pin and then reconnect, this should get you to Mode 2. You may have to repeat this procedure again to get to Mode 3. 5. The first Logged Diagnostic Code will now appear in the message window. (It will not scroll through all the Codes as it did previously). In service terminology it is "on hold". 6. Connect one end of a jumper cable to Pin 2 (wire 291 Clear) on the connector. The Code in the window should disappear. Remove the jumper from Pin 2. 7. The next Diagnostic Code should now appear in the window. Repeat Step 6 to erase it. 8. Repeat Step 6 to erase the third logged code. Once there are no more Codes to erase the display will show something like "No Codes" or maybe three horizontal dashes. 9. Repeat Steps 2 & 3 to scroll from Mode 3 back to Mode 0. I'm not sure how many Modes there are on your tractor, I think 8 from memory but I may be wrong. It only scrolls one way so basically keep scrolling until you see "-0-" in the message window and at that point remove both jumper cables. You are now back in normal operating Mode.
Thanks Nige, I will get that done and let you know the results.