I have a d6r ADE00695 with transmission issues. From what I've heard it had a converter go out and it contaminated the fluid, caused tons of issues with the modulating valves. It's supposedly gotten a new converter and 2 transmissions across 2 owners. I can't imagine the factory filtration system would allow fluid to flow with big enough chunks to cause valves to stick, I'm wondering if I have some pressure bypasses that are opening and allowing junk to flow through. I've been toying with the idea of pumping it all through a low micron fuel filter with a pump, but I feel as though it should be able to filter it out on its own. I think there's a suction at the bottom of the transmission that can be accessed by removing a cover, not sure how to check it without dumping 150L on the ground (park with the rear up high on a steep incline?) and I believe the filter for it is the one against the hydraulic tank? Any help on how to remedy this issue would be greatly appreciated, this is my first piece of equipment and I definitely wasn't expecting breakdowns every 2 hours of run time. Thanks
Have an oil sample analysis done and look at the ISO Cleanliness Code numbers would be my first thought. That would give you a clear indication whether or not excessive amounts of particles are circulating in the power train oil system. The answers to these and lots of other questions are in the Operation & Maintenance Manual. You really need to get hold of one ASAP. Search for Cat Publication reference SEBU7298. If you can't find a used copy on eBay or similar you can download a pdf version from HERE for around US$50. What Part Number filter is in the system right now.? That could have a bearing on the bypass valve setting (different springs behind the bypass spool). You should bear in mind that when the oil is cold there is a strong possibility that the filter will bypass on first startup. What oil is in the system as a matter of interest.? Normally a transmission overhaul/rebuild would call for the installation of 5 new modulating valve assemblies. Do you know if they were replaced in either of the previous overhauls.? Also do you have any information on whether or not the engine oil cooler, powertrain oil cooler, and transmission pump were replaced after either of the previous failures - or even removed, inspected/cleaned, and refitted.?
The powertrain oil filter #25 is mounted on the RH fender. One magnetic screen #2 is directly in the transmission pump suction line. To access it will require either lifting the cab floor or lowering one of the belly guards. The transmission suction screen #21 is behind a 4-bolt cover at the bottom of the transmission housing at the rear of the tractor.
Buying that OMM right now, I've been trying to find it. I'm guessing they didn't replace or check anything they should have, It has a mix match of Chinese modulating valves in it that look like they've been shoved in a vice and hit with a hammer at some point. I had swapped them around to verify my it won't ******* go forward condition. Swapped first and forward and first would just barely grab and slip or not work at all and then forward worked perfectly in 2nd. did the same thing with reverse and just bought a new valve for it as I was running out of useable ones. Then reverse quit working again yesterday after maybe 2-3 hours on a brand new cat modulating valve, I went earlier today and swapped with forward, forward no longer worked and it reversed fine. I took a screw driver and popped the rod that diverts flow free and it worked again.
Based on your reply above I think you need to be taking a look inside those two screens sooner rather than later. Brace yourself - what you find may be ugly.
Assuming those screens are dirty, will cleaning them and replacing the filter be adequate to stop my issue of plugging these modulating valves? Really looking to have a reliable machine for the season to come. Are there any flushing procedures that can be done?
Not by a long chalk, at least not IMHO. Take a look at the oil. What type & weight oil is it BTW.? Does it appear clear & bright or dark and cloudy.? Does it smell burned.? I would say that your first step should be to get an oil analysis done to identify the level of contamination in the system. At your local Cat dealer they sell kits that include the necessary to take a sample and also the cost of analysis probably for less than CA$50. It will pay you back 1000 times to know what you have right no. Clean the two screens by all means (take photos of what you find and which screen it came from) but that likely won’t fix the issue. Your next step should be to look in the filter housing and identify the Part Number of the element that is in there. There have been changes to the P/N that are not reflected in the Parts Manual. You need to be aware of these changes and ensure that the correct filter is installed. See SEPD1230 attached. The element you need is Part Number 343-4465 rather than the 132-8876 that is mentioned in the parts book. At the same time you need to prove that the plugged filter switch is working correctly. My bet is that it isn’t. While that switch is out make sure that the bypass spool is moving smoothly and that the spring conforms to specifications. Your switch should be installed in place of the Plug #17 in the illustration below. The bypass spool and spring are #15 & 16. The spring should measure 62.5mm long and 15.25mm outside diameter.
If you need a new #164-7577 Filter switch, I have a brand new one still in a never opened sealed bag from OEM Cat for sale on Kijiji, for less than half of the going price. Could save you quite a few bucks. Simon C
The oil has a brown tint and looks like it has some darker material floating in it, didn't smell burnt but it had a weak gear oil scent to it. I've honestly never even seen TDTO so I'm not even sure it has the right fluid in it. I think I'm going to drain all the fluid and take an oil analysis. Check and clean all the screens, check bypass and switch. Throw a new filter in and see if I can flush the powertrain cooler out. I'm debating taking the fluid and running it though a fuel filter with a decently low micron, any idea as to what micron the factory filter is? Thanks
Something like this would be an option, that I have used more than once to flush out slowly an entire hydraulic system. This is a cleaning down to 5 micron in a total synthetic filter with a built in by pass. I have used also with a needle valve hooked up to pilot pressure with the outlet hose going back into tank with the hose taped up very well with rags to prevent any contamination. Have done this permanently on a Chev 2500 transmission line as in this picture and the particule count that was around 51000 on the genuine Chev filter dropped to 1700 in first 3 hour run. I had it on till I changed to a 3500, and was happy with results. Simon C
Wanna bet someone has put EP gear oil in it.? Get it our, flush the system and start again fresh with TDTO/TO-4 would be my suggestion. If it has "material" floating in it that could be an indication that the filter bypass spool is stuck in the bypass position. Good plan. Don't forget to use the correct (latest) 343-4465 Part Number of filter. Please read SEPD1230 (attached above) for the reason why a filter element with a higher micron rating is actually better for system performance. in the srtictest sense of the word the 132-8876 is a hydraulic oil filter, not a powertrain oil filter. If it's a 132-8876 - 6 microns. If it's a 343-4465 - 10 microns
If the new Cat filter is that fine then you don't need my filter set-up, but the idea may help you fix some other machine another time. Has gotten me out of some problems. Because your in Ontario, you could also use the TDTO/TMS all season oil more rated for colder weather in winter, once you have flushed it out as Nige has said, but only after getting some oil samples first. Simon C
You should really get a sample and have it analysed so that you know what's in there at this moment. Agree with Simon that TDTO-TMS is the best oil for your climate with the wide variations of ambient temperature throughout the year in your neck of the woods - saves changing grades between summer & winter. You don't necessarily have to be wedded to Cat-brand oil. Petro Canada have a couple of perfectly good multigrade TO-4 spec oils. Petro-Canada PRODURO™ TO-4+ Synthetic All Season | PRODURO | Petro-Canada Lubricants PRODURO TO-4+ Synthetic All Season provides reliable performance for off-road fleets and ensures the best year-round performance.Read more. petrocanadalubricants.com Petro-Canada PRODURO™ TO-4+ XL Synthetic Blend Lo-Temp | PRODURO | Petro-Canada Lubricants PRODURO TO-4+ XL Synthetic Blend Lo-Temp provides reliable performance for off-road fleets.Read more. petrocanadalubricants.com
Yes the Petro Canada Selection is quite good and is where I buy most of my oils. He needs to get his system cleaned out first, and then quality product behind. It doesn't take too long to get all the oil through a new filter. Simon C
Well quite the development. Definitely found my bypassing issue, unsure as to whether or not the filter bypass is functioning properly. Spring seemed fine but I forgot to measure the length, it was already pressing the switch down just by putting it in, and it was caught on the snap ring holding the switch plunger in. Obviously there was some excessive pressure or a sever lack of flow from the filter being plugged. All the o rings sealing it where flat and the filter was the older part number, I'm assuming someone hasn't been doing their maintenance. I found tons of metal of every colour and size, and varying rubber pieces as well. Fluid was ******* dark and has a gear oil smell but definitely not overwhelmingly. I threw the new filter in just so I can float the machine to a yard where I can work on it before half loads hit. I'm going to order a drum of fluid and a couple filters because I'm sure that one will be fucked before it even makes it on the trailer. I'm not aware of the exact flow that causes that bypass switch to activate, but the plunger on the switch was extremely easy to push in with my finger, the spring felt significantly stronger and it depressed the switch as I installed it.
The bypass plunger and more schmoo
Think I will let Nige comment on this one. What happened to the inside of the filter. He is going to ask you anyways. Simon C
That's how it was when I pulled it out. Inside was blown apart and there was a dent on the outside where the fluid flows into the filter housing. I don't know if the fluid is way to thick and in the cold it just couldn't flow through, but I'm guessing when I cut it open later tonight I'm going to find it plugged full of debris
That oil is disgusting. It might not look like it to you but it’s burnt to a crisp. Need to see some good photos of what you find inside the filter. Even though the filter was the wrong Part Number I still reckon the damage to it is another justification for using a multigrade TO-4 oil in the powertrain in your particular climate conditions. All the metal you found is an indication of what I refer to as a “hard” (metal part or parts) failure - this is not good. A “soft” failure you would see masses of burned up clutch material in the suction screens; something that is generally relatively easy to repair. My money is on that transmission having to be removed from the machine sooner rather than later. In case you were not aware the bypass spool has to move AWAY from the switch for the plugged filter light to come on, so the spring pushing the spool hard up against the switch plunger as the switch is screwed into the filter housing is completely normal. While you had everything apart did you check the operation of the switch.? From memory a differential pressure of 34psi across the filter is what causes the bypass spool to move against the spring force and away from the the switch which sounds the plugged filter warning.
Yea I had a feeling the fluid was pretty cooked, with it being the old part number and the o rings all being old and flattened I’m assuming it wasn’t changed after the previously torque converter and transmission failure. Definitely indications of major hard part damage that wasn’t in those photos. Quite a few chunks that were much bigger than I’d like to see. Hopefully the friction disks and bearings aren’t destroyed from it going through them. Supposedly there’s only 50 hours on this transmission. But I’m not quite so sure I still believe that. I plan to let the filter I just put in catch some garbage and hopefully not refill the system with contaminated fluid, then change it and test pressure at clutches and do a stall test to see if any slip. I’m assuming even if they don’t there’s been a drastic decrease in the life of all the wear parts in the transmission, I really only need it to do a couple hundred hours so it can cover some payments and hopefully make enough that I can rebuild without sending myself into more debt. Do you think that would be at all possible or just a terrible idea and begging for bigger problems? I know a bigger company would rip that transmission out in a heartbeat but this is really my first big expense and I’ve got a son coming in 3 months so I’d really rather not tear it all down before it makes any money. Opening up the filter now
This video shows you how. If you don’t squeeze the filter media in a vice you’ll never see the particles in the bottom of the pleats. Yes I know that it is an engine filter but the procedure is the same.
To quote Clint Eastwood - “Do you feel lucky punk?” I do sympathise with your situation and wish I could tell you to “just go ahead and run it, it’ll be fine”, but with the quantity of metal in those photos something inside that tranny is just about on the point of suffering a mechanical hernia and if it does then you’ll be going in there with a shovel to extract the broken parts and probably the only thing worth saving will be the case.
Im honestly surprised at the lack of material in the filter media, but if I were to assume the material was from a previous failure that had been fixed and someone didn’t do their due diligence with fluid contamination and changing the filter that the transmission could be okay even after having that ****** fluid pumped through it? The largest chunks were on my finger in the photos and the one with small material is after running my finger through half a dozen or the low spots on the media
It definitely emphasized how bad the fluid was and I’m assuming it’s all so dark due to friction material?
Not necessarily. Usually oil goes dark because it burns as a result of clutch slippage, which you obviously have or had because it’s in the title of the thread regarding the modulating valve problems. Maybe you could get away with this after all if (fingers crossed) someone didn’t do their due diligence in regards to cleaning after a previous failure. Ho do you feel about pulling out the transmission pump for a look inside it and also the transmission cooler.? Those are the two components that usually nobody wants to pull after a transmission failure yet they can adversely affect the operation of the rebuilt tranny if they are not up to snuff. Usually you find the cooler full of clutch material “sludge”.
As far as I’m concerned my labour is free, and a new transmission sure isn’t. Knowing the previous owner I’m 90% sure they wouldn’t have put in the effort to remove, flush or even check the cooler or pump. Still curious what I’ll find in the screens. Pulled apart another section of media directly under the damaged part of the filter with similar results
I suggest that should be your next step before doing anything else.
Yeah seems like a good idea, I believe the powertrain cooler is on the passenger side of the engine, is the pump for the transmission mounted on the torque converter housing?
It is.
Is there any benefit to removing the cooler? I’ve been searching through the cat diagrams and it looks like the oil flows around the tubes the coolant flows through, should I just pull the lines and rig a way to pump through the cooler to flush everything out? Or can it be torn apart to where I can actually clean the inside of it? Thanks
Unfortunately you can’t clean the passages around the tube bundle inside the cooler without removing the cooler core from the machine. You’ll see what I mean when you actually get it out.
Well I put about 2.5 hrs on the dozer with the new transmission filter in, didn't have any Modulating valves get stuck which was a nice change. But I did have a new issue which might explain some things. I ran it for a little over an hour and noticed a funny sound happening as a I braked and put it in reverse after pushing up a very steep hill, I got out to just put eyes on everything and it was making an odd clunking noise over and over as if something was trying to engage while it was sitting parked. There was steam or smoke coming off the frame around the final drives and it was so hot around them I couldn't put my hand on it. I'm assuming that would be the steering clutches behind the final drives. I did notice it didn't quite steer as well as it did when I had starting but I really don't have much seat time and the steering joystick has a quite a bit of slop so I'm sure it isn't getting maximum input. Are there clutches that steer it that also get fluid from the transmission? I'm assuming if there is they were slipping causing a fuckload of heat and could be whats filling the transmission fluid with friction material.
Your tractor is differential steer. There are no steering clutches.
I also found out that apparently after the torque converter failure the powertrain cooler was replaced, and the pump was removed and cleaned. I'm currently posting the videos with the sound to youtube so you can hear it.
what would cause heat buildup like that? I was working it pretty hard but I'm assuming it was way more heat that normal.
Key word “apparently”. If you weren’t there when it was done take any information with a pinch of salt and confirm for yourself. YMMV.
Brakes not fully releasing possibly.? They are spring applied and released by oil pressure, the oil in question being supplied from the transmission pump. Note my earlier recommendation about confirming work that was “apparently” done by others. What did the transmission temperature gauge show.? Does it even work.?
Yeah I've got the gaskets ordered to remove the cooler and verify, I got a little worried thinking the steering had clutches and I was gonna contaminate the fluid with it, could it be that the brakes are dragging ever so slightly and causing a heat buildup? There must be ports to check the pressure when it's released?
There are. It’ll take me a couple of days to come up with the info because I’m away from base at the moment. Maybe time to invest in a service manual.?
Temperature was good, I got it pretty warm under a real hard load trying to break through a bunch of frost but If I'm correct the top right gauge is the torque converter temperature, which was warm but cooled off and stayed cool the rest of the time. Everything else was working and good.
I bought the one you had linked earlier, I'll search through it and see what I find
Here is a video with the noise it was making when parked
Do you have, or can you get hold of, an infra red temp gun.? If you can then run the machine the same way again and shoot the final drive temps with it. If you post a photo of the dash I can identify which gauge is which for you. Best I can do when I can’t get into the system. Thinking about it you really should get hold of an Operation & Maintenance Manual which covers the basic operating & mtce tasks. Sorry forgot you bought one already. Maybe a but of reading to familiarise yourself with gauges, warning lights, & controls might be in order.
Yeah definitely need to look through it more, I should be able to get a temp gun and run it again, but the final drives themselves weren’t overly warm, I could touch them all around no problem it was just around where the spindles mount to the frame. I’ll try and find a good spot that’ll let it slowly roll while I’m neutral and test it cold and hot and see if I feel any resistance from the brakes. I saw another forum where they mentioned doing a stall test to see if service brake will hold, it seems to work fine but if it is dragging and getting a bunch of heat in it I imagine there’s a chance it’ll slip once it’s really hot. Might try that aswell. Any thoughts to what that sound might be? Can’t imagine that’s normal
Off hand no but it’s not normal IMO. If it was a hydraulic system it almost sounds like a relief valve dumping every couple of seconds.
Listening to it a few times, is it possible that it’s the filter bypass tripping?
I don’t think so, because generally a filter bypass will open and stay open if the filter plugs with debris.
Yep, fully understand that and have heard one go into bypass before but the way it’s clicking, almost sounds like it could be about to or getting ready too. Just a thought.
A look at the filter might help to confirm or deny the possibility of the bypass valve being the source of the noise.
I put my hand on the top of the bypass switch because I had the same thought, it seems like it’s coming from the top of the transmission, almost sound like it’s under my right joystick from the cab. Might actually pull the floor out when it starts again and see if I can physically feel it in any lines or valve blocks
I think if it was me I would put a couple gages on it and see if there is any fluctuations in pressure
Well I tried to warm it up to do some tests, started throwing datalink errors I believe, serv code 30 248.02. Gauges were kicking off and on and losing gear indicator and tax. Then it started making an awful noise going into reverse. I sent the video I sent last to a mechanic buddy and he said it sounded like the priority valve kicking off and on. I think I’m gonna bite the bullet and get him to check it out and see what he thinks. Here’s the reverse sound And my started wiring decided it wanted to try and do some welding, something tells me this thing just wants to die lol
Any update on what you found.?
Okay little update, the sound going into reverse was the modulating valve freaking out. It was holding about 10 psi when not engaged which was the dragging, and when shifting into reverse it would shutter and the pressure would fluctuate like crazy. I put in a new cat modulating valve and it would drop pressure to zero and not shutter. But the new valve was only getting 200 something psi when engaged when the ****** Chinese one was getting over 400. Just drained the final drives and transmission yesterday, all the fluid was disgusting, black and too shiny for my liking. Pulled the magnetic scavenging screen and it’s covered in metal and has tons of the filter media from the larger filter in it. Torque converter scavenge is missing the screen completely. Rear transmission scavenge wasn’t too bad although I did find some black pieces sitting in the bottom of the orifice that were black and flat. Sure seemed like friction material to me.
Here’s a video of some of the material on the magnetic screen. Some small chunks the size of the ones I show that aren’t magnetic either. I don’t know how much you’d expect to see on the magnets but I would assume you’d only want a small goopy consistency of regular wear from the gear train.
Only other thing I can think to mention is that it did feel like a little more hesitant to turn left than right as I stepped off the decelerator while already steering, but I don’t know exactly how a diff steer machine works and if it could cause that material. From what I think I know it does share the transmission fluid.
Do you know how long is it since that magnetic screen was last removed & cleaned.? Either way I think the next step is to pull the transmission. There is far too much metal in that screen for my liking.
I was told that the pump was removed and checked when the first replacement transmission was installed, definitely grimey enough to know it hasn’t been done in a long time. Had to break chunks of shut off the plate to remove it and with it supposedly having a new transmission 50 hours ago either someone’s lying or not taking any of the proper steps. What are your thoughts on the possibility of failing steering clutches. I’ve been looking through the diagrams and it appears there’s a stack of clutches behind the final drive. I find it hard to believe there’s been 3 bad transmissions in a row. And I’ve heard of it having previous steering related failures. I might put the old oil back in and try and do some pressure tests or see if I can feel some heat coming from one side or the other
It’s differential steering isn’t it.?
That’s what I keep getting told, I’m not positive how either work. But I have the vin in on the cat app and a diagram showing clutch disks behind the finals and the flanges seem to match what’s on mine.
Flanges match the diagram
That illustration is of the brakes….. Post a photo of the steering control in the cab for confirmation.
I guess it is differential steering then, so the only place friction material can enter the transmission is from the clutches in the transmission and the brakes
Correct. Diff steer. There are no steering clutches. I would suspect that the majority of the friction material you found is from the transmission clutches, what worries me is the metal and that is from somewhere else.
Do you think I should stick a magnet inside the torque converter scavenge? Not sure how or where the fluid from the brakes gets released but if I could isolate that and drain those lines specifically it would probably help identify where the metal is coming from
I just watched a video on iron king of someone rebuilding a diff steer and they installed the brake clutches and put in multiple teflon washers, guess I know where the pieces of what I thought were teflon tape came from… might start with pulling the final drive and getting to the brakes
you are not avoiding a transmission rebuild only delaying it expensively She’s not cooked…she is cremated
I’m gonna pull the trans aswell, gonna clear out the garage tomorrow so I have somewhere clean to work on it. Then everything’s coming apart. Just realized today while I was pulling the belly pan off that they also welded the master link together on the tracks so thats a little icing on the cake…
While you are doing that you should also remove the transmission cooler and have it cleaned, also remove the pump and inspect the insides of it. With the amount of metal circulating in the system who knows what state it’s in.? While you’re at it pull both final drive assemblies, strip, clean, & inspect. If you’re lucky you might just get away with needing a few seals & gaskets but either way you will know the exact condition of the internal parts.
Yeah I’m going to do all of that, you know how I can get ahold of all the instructions and specs for tearing that all down without cat et, could I get a book or a pdf from cat somehow?
Interesting thread which is leading up to a massive strip down.Everything needs to see daylight now I reakon unfortunately. Positively speaking,you’ll have a good handle on what’s inside the beast and have everything cleaned up.
What you really need is a service manual. The Caterpillar Publication reference is RENR4265. Attached is a link to a paper version of the manual for sale on eBay. According to the seller the manual is complete apart from missing the electrical schematic. CAT CATERPILLAR D6R SERIES II TRACTOR DOZER SERVICE SHOP REPAIR BOOK MANUAL | eBay FOR SALE IS SERVICE MANUAL THAT IS FOR UNITS WITH SERIAL NUMBERS. MANUAL IS MISSING THE ELECTRICAL SCHEMATIC RENR4277. www.ebay.com FYI you can get the same thing in an Adobe pdf version on a CD for $506 from HERE
Is there no way to get an online copy with the cat publications?? I'd really prefer an online copy that I can get immediately as oppose to waiting and paying for shipping? Can I contact a dealer on monday and get one from them?
As far as I am aware there is no "online version" of service manuals. They come in either paper form or on a CD. You could ask your dealer about an online subscription to the Cat Service Information System or also ask them how to access SIS2GO.
The only way to get online access is to pay for a SIS subscription and they are not cheap. You do get access to parts, specifications, testing/adjusting, disassembly/assembly, and a lot more information though. There are a lot of uploaded manuals online but completeness, current accuracy, and relevancy to your model are all suspect. Not to mention many are scanned in with poor quality.
Good god they got you good on this one. What’s the shape of the UC in general? I hope you don’t have too many more problems once you get these fixed
Under carriage is decent besides the top idlers both being out of adjustment for a while and wearing unevenly. Chains sprocket and pads are all pretty good. Got the transmission in the garage and differential section off. Waiting on my 16” snap ring plier set to show up so I can start pulling it apart. Probably gonna make a couple people cringe with the removal tools but I did it the day after I said I was going to and built all my own tools and didn’t have any adequate chains. Anyone have a preferred spot to split the master link when removing final drives? Going to go measure and grab some steel square tube to build a bracket I can bolt on the teeth segments. Babys due in 5 days and I’m battling the weather here in Ontario so I’m trying to get everything done when I can.
Here’s some more photos
Good luck with the new baby I notice the fuel tank appears to be off a D6H.I wonder if the early R series had the same tanks? Is it a 3306 or C9?
It’s a c9 04 MY
I got the transmission tore down, everything’s looking pretty good except the clutch pack that I’ve circled and pointed at. Anyone know what clutch that is? Has some chunks missing off the friction disks and the steel plate has some hot spots. I’ve still got to pop apart the rotational clutch but I’m waiting on the service manual for that anyone know what the pressures are supposed to be at those test ports for the clutches. Most of mine were 360-410. I’m probably going to put in new seals on the pistons but I’m curious if they were still good
Here’s the bad disks and plate, piston looks good and so do the other sides of the friction disks. It was just the surfaces touching the intermediate plate. Honestly surprised that was the extent of the damage. Hopefully all the metal was from a previous failure. But we’ll see once I tear into the brakes and the pump
I would say that clutch needs all new friction discs and also separator plates. When you get your manual there will be specs in it for the thickness of single clutch discs and plates, also assembled height of a clutch pack. I would suggest to measure all the clutch stacks, even the apparently non-worn ones, to see how they compare to spec.
T Thats the plan, going to call cat again. I can get the manual through sis2go but one of the previous owners still has it registered on their account so they won’t let me have it…
Alright transmissions back in, forgot to torque bolts I removed to lift it so I had to do it twice. Got everything cleaned out new filters new screens. I’m trying to slide the steering gear that has female splines onto the output of the differential. The most engagement I can get is about a half inch. Is there a trick to getting it back on? It’s missing from my service manual so I’m just assuming it should be pushed back on, tried slowly turning the driveshaft to possibly move the splines and help it engage but no luck, almost feels like the gear I’m trying to push on is slightly aiming down. Any tips?
Can you loosen the bolts on the other side of the driveshaft, to give you some play to help get it on a straight shot?
I'm not sure exactly what you are doing. You mean you are trying to install the final drive, steering planetary, & brake assembly into the transmission output bevel gears.? If so, which side - left or right.?
No just trying to slide a gear back onto the output of the bevel gear case. I pulled the 3 axles and then slid a gear off the transmission output from the drive side when I removed it. I’m assuming you have to slide it back on but I can’t get it to engage fully.
Did you pull the transmission and bevel gears as a single unit then split them inc the complete assembly was out if the machine.? It’s asking for trouble if you don’t do it that way.
Yes I did, but it’s the gear that slides onto the output on the side of the bevel gear case, I put a bar with a hook welded on it and slid the gear off the output through the driver side axle cover, now I’m trying to engage that gear onto the bevel gear case output again
Its a Diferential Steer system or a Finguer tip control? Understood u´re having troubles with the drive bevel, probably cause the bevel is not seated on the pinion, then u can´t push the shaft in, correct? As of me never worked on one like that, but that did not born as one!!!
Diff steer just like that, it’s the gear inside that left side planetary underneath the steering motor.
OK, i though so i heard around that, that gear is timed, but that maters litle. Probaly u have to wigle the pinion or unbolt the steering motor so the gear goes up to place so u can slide the shafts... be aware shafts have a trikky assemble. In clutch steer machines one can get out the shafts only one side, as long as the 2 short ones come out. Same aplies to those, i guess u got all safts out, so now they have to go in. Beter ask Nige for one assembly chart.
Alright fun update. Got that gear on and axles in. Drove it around a little after doing some pressure checks on the clutches. Went to park it and knocked a track off. Im assuming that grease is coming out of a very inconvenient spot and will probably need the whole tensioner removed to fix it. Haven’t cleaned it off or really looked into it to much. But hey the transmission is working great so atleast I got a little pick me up before I had to do more work… and of course the
Doesn’t look like a great spot for the grease to be coming out of
Those wells look terrible... not cool at all. Pretty surre u´ll have a pain in the ass to get that in a good working order Dozers are like ppl say, they keep breaking and one keeps fixing, every damm day, untill u burn them...
Do you have the procedure to remove & disassemble the track tensioner.?
Yeah I do but man did I get lucky, turns out the plate that gets bolted between the relief and the zerk was loose and blew the o ring out, 2.44$ and a 2 tubes of grease and she’s pushing again for the first time since early winter. Now I gotta clean out the disgusting fluid in there, broken bolts and terrible threads on both sides neither of them are actually sealed from the elements
Buy yourself a lottery ticket.
Looks to me like the clutch oil is burned . Any squeal or nasty odour?
Contamination from a failed torque converter is a classic cause of recurring modulating valve problems on these machines. The factory filtration is good under normal conditions, but a converter failure dumps a large amount of debris (clutch material, metal, etc.) that can overwhelm screens and the filter. Once the filter goes into bypass, unfiltered oil circulates and the fine particles keep sticking the valves. Multiple transmission swaps without a thorough system clean often leave residual debris that continues to cause issues. Key Filtration Components on the D6R • Power train oil filter — Located on the right-hand side (often behind an access cover near the hydraulic tank area). This is a spin-on or cartridge-style element with a bypass valve and restriction switch. • Magnetic suction screen — In the transmission pump suction line. Access usually requires dropping a belly guard or working from underneath. It catches larger ferrous particles before they reach the pump. • Transmission suction / scavenge screen — Behind a cover at the rear/bottom of the transmission case (often a 4-bolt cover). There is also typically a smaller screen in the torque converter scavenge line. • The system holds a large volume of oil (roughly 150+ liters / 40 US gallons depending on exact configuration), so proper draining and cleaning is messy but necessary. Recommended Cleanup Procedure 1. Drain the entire power train system Drain the transmission/bevel gear case, torque converter, and filter housing completely. Do this while the oil is warm if possible. Capture and dispose of it properly — it will be contaminated. 2. Clean all screens thoroughly • Remove and clean the magnetic suction screen (pump inlet). • Remove the rear transmission cover and clean the scavenge/suction screen. • Clean the torque converter scavenge screen if equipped. Inspect what you find (metal, clutch material, filter media fragments). Significant debris confirms the system still has contamination. 3. Replace the power train oil filter with a high-efficiency element (common updated part is in the 343-4465 range rather than older numbers). While the filter is out, check that the bypass spool and spring move freely and that the restriction switch operates correctly. A stuck or weak bypass will let dirty oil circulate. 4. Flush the system • Refill with the correct Cat power train oil (typically TDTO / SAE 30 depending on ambient temperature). • Run the machine through all gears (forward and reverse) at low load for a period, then drain again. • Repeat the drain/fill/filter/screen clean cycle at least once more (sometimes 2–3 flushes are needed after a major converter failure). • Strongly consider having the transmission oil cooler professionally flushed or replaced — coolers trap a lot of debris. 5. Offline filtration (optional but effective) Pumping the oil through a fine-micron filter cart (or a properly set up low-micron setup) after the initial mechanical cleaning can help remove remaining fine particles. Do this after screens and the main filter are clean so you are not just circulating the worst debris. 6. Reassemble and monitor After the final fill, operate the machine and recheck the filter restriction indicator and screens after a short period of use. Cut open the used filter to inspect what it captured. Additional Notes • Simply relying on the factory filter to “clean it up” after a converter failure is rarely sufficient — the volume of debris is too high and the bypass will open. • Sticking modulating valves are very sensitive to fine particles. Even after transmissions are replaced, residual contamination in the cooler, lines, and case will continue to cause problems until the whole circuit is cleaned. • If valves keep sticking after a proper multi-flush and screen cleaning, pressure-test the individual clutch circuits and consider having the control valve body inspected/cleaned professionally. This is a common and frustrating issue on D6Rs that have suffered a converter failure. Thorough cleaning of the screens + multiple oil/filter changes + cooler attention resolves it in most cases. If you can share what the screens and cut-open filter look like after the first drain, more specific guidance is possible.