Hello. I have Cat d6r año 2005 Code BRJ. have a problem, 2nd gear does not work for a month, neither forward nor reverse. This week, first reverse and third gear stopped working. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. I removed the transmission cover, checked the cable, everything is ok, there is voltage on the wires. 6.2 volts, not enough, but it should work. I also removed the solenoids, cleaned them, but nothing changed. When the doser is turned on, an oil leak is visible in the transmission, is this normal or not? I Take video with this. When connecting the pressure gauge, when certain solenoids are turned on, the oil pressure is 0. Should the solenoids have gaskets or are they screwed to the manifold like this? I saw that they are sold without orings, and with orings. One mechanic I know says that this is a problem, without orings, another says that it can work like that. What else could it be, tell me.
It's not unusual for the o-rings/gaskets to be sold separately. The groove is there for an o-ring.
I wonder where they disappeared to. Or was it still working without o-rings? one more question. the c9 engine overheats. I have already changed the gasket, cleaned all the radiators, the engine head is not crooked, it is straight. it passes the pressure test. what could cause it to overheat?
I think it would leak pretty bad without the o-ring in place.
These proportional valves are installed without seals.
Check the Wastegate valve on the turbocharger.
Dimi, your location shows as Bolivia. What altitude above sea level is this machine operating.? Do you know how to access Diagnostic codes for the powertrain electronic control system using the Monitor Panel.? Based on your first post regarding the problem, especially the part where the transmission lost 2nd speed both FWD & REV a month before it failed completely) I think you need to start with some basic tests. Inspect the transmission oil. Is it clear & bright and a straw colour or dark & opaque.? Does the oil smell burned.? Drain the oil and remove the transmission scavenge screen (1st illustration) and the magnetic screen in the suction line (2nd illustration). Post photos of whatever you find. You will need to remove the lower guard to gain access to the magnetic screen.
yes , I'm from Bolivia, 161 meters above sea level. the oil looks the same as I poured it in, light. not dark. Magnetil Screen I checked it 2 weeks ago, there was only very fine dust that was magnetic. There were no large shavings or metal fragments. Scavenge Screen I'll check and post a photo, here's a photo of the service codes, the ones with an asterisk are active codes when the service is on.
Thank you. At least that takes altitude out of the equation. I am more familiar with operations around San Cristobal which is closer to 4000 metres SNM......!! I will take a look at the Service Codes and get back to you.
So the Active Codes are as follows: - Engine 036.0172.03 - Intake Manifold Air Temp Sensor open/short to batt+ 036.0273.03 - turbo outlet pressure sensor open/short to batt+ 066.0617.06 - Air Inlet Heater Realy grounded/current above normal Transmission 113.0671.02 - Output speed sensor #1 signal intermittent, erratic, or incorrect. 113.0672.02 - Output speed sensor #2 signal intermittent, erratic, or incorrect. The last two appear to be critical. The machine has two transmission output speed sensors for a reason. They are buried deep inside the transmission and are inaccessible without removing the complete assembly from the machine. If one fails the machine will still operate fine using the other one. If both of them fail then the machine should not move as far as I am aware. Attached are the troubleshooting procedures for the two sensors. If you would like a complete electrical schematic for the tractor please ask.
Regarding the lack of O-Rings can you answer a question. Approximately how wide is the groove in the body of the solenoid valve in your photo.?
In the troubleshooting procedures is mentioned the use of the 4C-8195 Control Service Tool, also known as the "Click Box". If you have never heard of this tool before then it may pay you to read this THREAD , because even if you don't have one it is a relaitvely easy tool to fabricate yourself, or even use a work-around with no more than 2 pieces of automotive wire (see Posts #50-52 on Page 3).
These valves do not use a seal in the groove. The output speed sensors will log this code if the clutches are not engaging. The ecm sees input speed but no output speed and logs a code for failed sensors. When you clean the valves you have to take the small Allen plug out of the internal spool to clean the orifice in the Center passage. I would suggest you check filters and screens first then check trans pump pressure. There is a good chance it is just the modulating valves acting up so you might want to order a couple new ones to try and eliminate that.
I thought I remembered something. Just needed to find it. In the Parts List for the 220-4324 solenoid valve for the BRJ-prefix D6R II the 6D-7889 O-Ring is not shown. However digging deeper into the parts breakdown for the valve it appears in the BOM. Strange...... 6D-7889 is shown as Ref #4 in the illustration below which is not from the BRJ Parts Manual. It is 61.6mm I/D x 2.62mm cross-section diameter.
On ECPC bulldozer transmissions, these seals are not installed. As far as I understand, a small amount of oil seepage helps to cool the proportional valves better.
the oil looks like this. there was dirt on the filter, not metal, but similar to pieces of a friction disk. I don't know about the sensors, but the doser is moving, I'll check the sensors. width of the nut 3.2 mm for the gasket, depth 2.3 mm i have click Box, i know this.
I also disassembled the solenoids, there was no dirt at all, all the holes were free, both on the electromagnet side and on the valve side.
Excellent. Good to know. That lines up with an O-Ring of 2.62mm cross-section diameter because it would compress as the body of the solenoid valve is tightened down. Personally I would suggest obtaining some 6D-7889 O-Rings, install them, and see if anything changes. It should not cost a large amount of money. What do you have to lose at this point.? That looks very much like burned-up friction disc material in your photo. Regarding your earlier comment about measuring 0 psi at certain test points here is the clutch engagement chart. You should see pressure in #3 clutch in neutral and in two clutches for any other speed. It might be a good idea to remove the axle shafts while you are testing. It could make things easier and would also be safer. Also the T&A specifications.
If you didn’t remove a small Allen screw and an orifice from the modulation spools you didn’t clean anything.
Here is a picture of the orifice you need to clean.
I did everything the same. A small update: I installed an O-ring, the oil leak became less, but I think this is normal. where exactly is the pressure tap for the input and output of the torque converter? because on both taps of the torque converter the pressure is zero. I measured the inlet here and the outlet here. On tap C the pressure was zero, on tap K - at idle 270 psi, on high idle - 350 psi Stall Test
now there is pressure in neutral, and it also reacts to reverse. I just haven't measured the pressure of the forward and reverse solenoids yet.
Go back to post #18 on the previous page and download the attachement RENR4256. Look at pages 2 for the outlet relief valve and Page 3 for the inlet relief valve. In fact you really need to look at most of the illustrations on the first 3 pages to double-check that you are using the correct test points for whatever pressure you think you are measuring.
everything is correct. I measured correctly, but the pressure value at two points is zero.
Try measuring converter inlet and outlet with a gauge that has a max scale of 150psi instead of 600psi. In fact for the converter oultet try a gauge with a 75psi max scale. This was something we came across recently that a 600psi gauge was so inaccurate at the lower end of the pressure scale that it gave wildly incorrect readings. Can you also measure pump pressure and priority valve pressure using the 600psi gauge and report your findings. At the start of your video I can see the SERV CODE icon illuminated on the Monitor Panel. Can you post a list of Active Diagnostic Codes please.
I only have this pressure gauge for hydraulics. There is a smaller one for air, but there will be a difference in readings, I need to try. Priority Valve low idle 270, high idle 350 psi, measured when cold. I'll make a video about service codes, although I think they haven't changed.
A video is not really necessary. If it is still the same list as you posted previously then please just confirm that.
I connected another pressure gauge and it showed the pressure on the torque converter. tc inlet Low 50psi, high 110psi. tc outlet Low idle 50 psi, high idle 100 psi. Stall Test 55 psi. Active Service Code: 036- 0172.03; 036-0617.06 only these 2 codes
By looking at the video I can see the driveshaft stops turning when you go into gear so I think the transmission is going into gear the way it should. Does it move in any of the gears? The trans output codes may stay active after you repaired the transmission. They will probably go out once the machine moves ahead and the ecm sees a signal.
Those are both within specification so there does not appear to be any major problems with the converter at this point. Those are engine Codes and will not affect the transmission problem. What happened to the Active Codes you had before - 113.0671.02 & 113.0672.02.? Did you disassemble the transmission clutch solenoid valves right down as shown to the orifice as shown in the photos by @Mobiltech in Post #20 on the previous page.?
Reading the OP again he's complaining of no 2nd gear in either direction for a while and now an intermittent loss of 1st & 3rd speeds, also in both directions, along with Active Codes for both transmission output speed sensors which as you mentioned can be generated by slipping clutches. My suggestion would be to install the 600psi gauge he has on each of the five transmission clutch test points in turn and cycle the transmission through all FWD & REV speeds. After that make a table of the measured pressures for each clutch and compare it with the "engaged clutches" table in Post #18 on the previous page.
they are shown but without the service code icon Yes, it moves now, forward and backward, the second speed works too. only we have a downpour, if I try now I will get stuck. It may work when cold(Seconds Gear), but it will work for 20-30 minutes and then not turn on.
I'll try to do it
Obviously do it with the brakes applied, so you will not have to move the machine and no risk of getting stuck. So what you may have to do is two sets of pressure measurements. 1. With the machine cold. 2. Stall the torque converter and get all systems up to normal operating temperature (which is when you say you have gear problems) and measure the pressures again. Any differences in what yoiu see between cold and hot pressures will be interesting.
I measured the temperature when it was cold. I'll be working tomorrow and after work I'll measure the temperature when it's hot. Pressure at Transmission main Relief Valve Low Isle 350, high idle- 390 psi. If any other measurements need to be taken, I can do them tomorrow before work.
A set of pressure measurements of the transmission cliches just like the ones above should be fine.
The pressure in the speed clutches is low. The norm is 320 ± 20 pci The pressure in the Main Relief valve is also a little lower. The norm is 430 ± 20 psi
@dimi - when you get the machine systems up to normal operating temperature please check the transmission main relief valve pressure in addition to the pressures in the transmission clutches.
Hi. Since I had Caterpillar TO2 oil, I replaced it with another one that meets Caterpillar TO4 requirements. That's why I didn't post anything on this thread. I measured the pressure on a cold engine. The transmission pressure didn't change, only clutch number 3 increased to 280 psi. Torque converter inlet: 50 low / 130 high, TC outlet: 50 Low / 110 high. Transmission main Relief: 400 Low / 430 high. Clutch left: 300 Psi, Brake left: 310 (Brake disengaged). Brake right: 160 Psi ?????(Normally 310) clutch right: 310 Psi priority Valve 150 Low. All gears work, forward and reverse, second gear too. I worked for 40 minutes, the water temperature warmed up to the red zone, the transmission temperature is half the scale. I wanted to measure the pressure on a hot engine, Just measured clutch number 3 - 260 psi. I turned off the engine to connect the pressure gauge at another tap, the starter turns, but the engine does not start. hot. This is my next problem, that the engine overheats.
What viscosity are you using.?
SAE 50
Too heavy. You should be using SAE30.
but our average temperature is 30-35.
We ran SAE30 oil in dozer transmissions even in tropical climates with similar temperatures. I used to be a believer in SAE50 but not any more. It slows down clutch engagement, increases transmission temperatures, and causes premature clutch wear.
Here are Caterpillar's transmission oil recommendations for the D6R_BRJ. SAE 50 TO-4 is better than SAE 30 TO-2, because Caterpillar has not recommended TO-2 oil for transmissions for a long time.
The pressure in the right brake clutch is low, the brake may not fully release. Based on the description of the symptoms, your tractor has a whole range of problems with the engine, fuel system, turbocharger, and transmission. All of these problems need to be fixed one by one or at once.